Film types and speeds

[SubMariner]

We usually take slides, so our current film of choice is Kodak Select Elite Chrome, 100 ASA.

The colour saturation is incredible! Coupled with dual strobes we get wonderfully vibrant, almost 3-dimensional pictures.

~SubMariner~

 

[GearHead]

This is a really helpful thread. Are there any Ikelite Auto35 users out there? I just upgraded from an Aquashot II to the Auto35 (haven't had a chance to use it yet) and I'm wondering if any of you would care to chime in on your film preferences as well.

Thanks,

Rick

 

[luvdiving]

Hi Tom

I've always had good luck with either Kodak Royal Gold 100, Fuji 100 of Photoworks 100, whatever I happen to have. I use a housed Cannon camera and twin strobes.

 

[Ber Rabbit]

My boyfriend, dive buddy actually listened to me on a trip when I made a suggestion about film. I like to put the photos in albums so I can show my friends, a slide show isn't practical for me. Anyway, I suggested using Kodak Gold Max 400 since I've always had good luck with it on the surface. He took a couple rolls of his preferred slow film (can't remember what it was but film speed was less than 100) and the rest of the trip he used the Gold Max 400. He uses a Nikonos V with a strobe, that's all I know about the set-up, I'm just the model! Anyway when we had the photos developed we had to pitch almost 80% of the slow film photos due to blurring, etc. We shot 13 rolls of Gold Max 400 and only threw away 36 pictures! The faster film is very forgiving for beginning photographers who want pictures for albums. The only way to decide what works for you is to shoot roll after roll, try to keep notes about camera settings and see how the photos turn out. We're having a "wash-out" problem right now and a friend suggested a red filter to get rid of some of the blue.

That's the advice from the briar patch!

Happy shooting!

Ber

 

[scorpiofish]

Many recommended Fuji Velvia 50 slide film. I use it, too. But it doesn't cut it for point and shoots. You need way to much light for such a slow film, which cannot be provided with a Sealife Reefmaste or Ike Auto 35

Point and shoots have a fixed shutter speed and usually little or no control over aperture. That's why they are easy to use. The down side is you have little or no control over exposure.

Print film will provide the processor with far more exposure latitude to help the photos come out a little better.

I've heard some people recommend slide film in order to learn how to better take shots, since you will learn from your mistakes. This is nonsense. All you will learn from shooting slide film is that most shots will be waste of film. Since you can't control your exposure, you can't do anything about it, except that you might as well not bother trying unless under perfect conditons. Use the latitude that print film provides.

Under ideal conditions of ambient light and low turbidity, you can shoot 100 speed film, assuming you have a strobe and are close to the minimum focusing distance, usually 3 ft. You can improve your chances by going with a faster film 200 or 400 speed, but the added grain may detract from the quality of the shot.

My print film of choice is Kodak Supra or Royal Gold. The choice of film brand will be inconsciquential vis-a-vie your ability to compose the shot and get close enough to expose the shot properly.

 

[DivingGal]

I've only been taking u/w pictures since February of this year. So I really haven't done that much experimenting. So far, I've been most happy using Kodak Gold 400 with my MK10.

 

[CheeseWhiz]

Good post, Scorpiofish! You cut through to the heart of the matter on a number of issues.

I have a Reefmaster that I've used with ASA 200, 400 and 800 film (I'm not real choosy about the brand...whatever's on sale). Since I do 99.9% of my above-water photography with digital cameras, I'm accustomed to manipulating my raw pictures on the computer. After taking u/w shots, I scan in the ones I want to keep and make them look however I want (color saturation, brightness, grain...). Photoshop is a wonderful thing.

Earlier in the thread, Joewr mentioned the limitations of the Reefmaster (and implicitly, point-and-shoots in general). I agree. The Ford I drive has a lot of limitiations too, but I can't quite afford that Aston Martin just yet.

 

[Dee]

Scorpiofish....Excellent!

The choice of film brand will be inconsciquential vis-a-vie your ability to compose the shot and get close enough to expose the shot properly.

We can buy cheap or fancy cameras, use budget or high priced film and although those two choices will effect your photos, it's what goes on behind the camera (you and your brain) that makes good photos.

 

[joewr]

Originally posted by CheeseWhiz

Earlier in the thread, Joewr mentioned the limitations of the Reefmaster (and implicitly, point-and-shoots in general). I agree. The Ford I drive has a lot of limitiations too, but I can't quite afford that Aston Martin just yet.

That is not what Joewr said! What he said--and I am unanimous in this--is that he did not know whether a Reefmaster could use ISO 400 film.

That is because it has been a long time since I have seen one up close and personal! I also indicated that, if it can take 400, I would recommend it because it would allow for greater depth of field at a given shutter speed. I could have added that it would allow for greater stop action capability at a given f stop...

The limitation one encounters is in enlargements since more grain would be apparent.

Recently I used some Fuji ISO 800 film for the fun of it...it made for great snapshots!


Joewr...

 

[CheeseWhiz]

I don't want to get too far into splitting hairs (I don't have that many to split), but the Joewr comment I had in mind when I posted my riposte (I like the sound of that!) was: "I just do not remember the limitations on the Reefmaster."

In re-reading your post, my attorney informs me that a reasonable person could indeed infer that you were commenting re the Reefmaster's acceptable range of film speeds. My interpretation at the time related to the Reefmaster's limitations in many other areas. I have a Reefmaster, and it's does a fine job at what it's supposed to do, but as soon as I can afford an Ikelite housing, my digital camera goes diving!

For what it's worth, Reefmaster recommends ASA 200 film. I have used 400 and 800 with decent results. You have to keep in mind that you are using a film with greater light sensitivity, but once you've done that, some interesting pictures can be created. As you know, the greatest variable in creating photographs is the photographer.