Fiji Trip Report and Photos

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Part Two

After four short days at Hideaway, we hopped back in the car and made our way back to the airport for the short flight to Taveuni. We had carefully re-packed our luggage and gear into just one checked bag (large Akona roller), one carryon (bookbag) and one "personal item" (laptop bag for my buddy and large fanny pack for me) apiece. The checked bag, according to Air Pacific regulations, was to be no heavier than 44 pounds (normally less, but we got extra allowance since we were diving) and the carryons no bigger than roughly 11 pounds. Okay, we were a little (not by much) over and I was expecting to pay through the nose for the overage. When we checked in for our flight, they weighed each checked bag, tagged them and sent them on through without any overage fee. Then, much to my horrible shame, they weighed each of us carrying our hand luggage. How humiliating! It's bad enough to be weighed when visiting the doctor, but to add luggage to the mix--grrrrrrrr! Anyway, they didn't seen to be too concerned about the carryon weight, either. However, keep in mind that our dive bags were each less than 50 pounds and the carryons not more than a couple pounds over apiece.

If you need to store luggage while you island hop, you can check it in at the "Left Luggage" area at the Nandi airport. It only costs a few Fijian dollars per day per piece of luggage for them to keep your luggage safe for you. They do not stack bag upon bag upon bag, but instead place each bag on a sturdy wooden shelf, tag it with your information and give you a receipt.

As we climbed into the little six seat prop plane, I didn't feel nervous at all. Taveuni isn't that far away and hey, how bad could it be? Then the pilot told us it was going to take about an hour and-a-half. I'm not TOO claustrophobic, so I told myself it was no problem, we would just work crossword puzzles in the book we had brought along. Yeah, right. It was a wee bit windy up there, so we were pitching a bit side to side through the sky, sometimes in cloudbanks so thick the viz may have been a few inches at best through the windows. Approx. two hours later, we landed safely on the lovely island of Taveuni.

The airport measured maybe 20' by 50' and contained a handful of wooden benches, an antique set of scales and four very small offices (contained in the measurements already specified). Our resort shuttle was not there, yet, so we visited with a couple locals who had come by boat to meet a relative on a later flight. Again, very nice people.

Garden Island Resort was only about a twenty minute drive from the airport. The first thing I noticed on arriving was that the counter and wait staff were not nearly as friendly as other folks we encountered during this trip. At least two I could describe as being downright rude. Support staff, on the other hand, such as Housekeeping, Maintenance and Groundskeepers were all very outgoing and extremely affable. We checked in with Aqua Trek (same owner as Aqua Trek at Pacific Harbour), filled out our paperwork and handed over our gear for the week. The dive crew sets up everybody's gear before diving, helps divers in and out of their gear, then rinses and stores it at the end of the day.

The food at Garden Island was OK and the menu was pretty much the same each day, with the exception of dinner. Breakfast consisted of a buffet (Continental-style) of cereal, coffee, juice, muffins and bread for toast. Everything I ate on the lunch menu was outstanding, though the "beefburgers" (our cheeseburgers) were undercooked one afternoon and several of us who ate them had, well, let's just say stomach issues. Good thing I brought the Bactrim! Anyway, the dinners were very good as well. The tap water is safe to drink and is tasteless and odorless, so you can drink to your hearts content. Rooms were clean but musty, containing a small refrigerator and hot-water maker. This is a good place to note that the only toiletries they provide are tiny cakes of soap. If you want shampoo, you'll need to bring it yourself or buy it locally. This is definitely not a four-star hotel, but if you are going there to dive, it's adequate. There is a nearby bar and post office, plus a couple of tiny grocery stores and second hand clothing outlet. A ten minute taxi cab ride, for about $3 Fijian roundtrip, can take you to a nearby village that contains various small businesses, including grocery and fabric stores as well as a bank and many other establishments designed specifically to separate you from your hard earned money. The resort itself offers kayaking, waterfall and village tours and a miriad of other local activities.

In exploring the grounds, one afternoon, photographing the lovely flowers, I heard my dive buddy gasp loudly. I turned and looked in the direction in which she was staring and nearly fainted. There were three huge yellow spiders (non-poisonous banana spiders, I'm told) clinging to their webs several feet above us. I swear they were the size of blue jays. Needless to say, that was the last time I wandered through that area and even now, as I'm writing this, I can't help but shudder uncontrollably at the very thought of one of those monsters falling off a web and down my shirt or in my hair. Other interesting critters in the area were huge fruit bats, Fijian toads and small albino-like lizards.

The diving was awesome in Somosomo Strait. Due to the swift currents, the corals were very colorful and beautiful. We saw white tip reef sharks on about half the dives, lionfish, groupers, blue ribbon and moray eels, clowfish, angels, nudibranchs and more than I could ever even have room to describe. For exposure protection, since the water was around 81 to 83 degrees, I was quite comfortable wearing a one piece swimsuit under a pair of long Under Armor shorts and a short sleeve Under Armor shirt/bra combination. I forgot to mention earlier that before my first dive of this trip, I broke the zipper on my skins. I can't bring myself to wear a borrowed wetsuit, so...

We ended up diving five days of 2 tank morning dives with a couple of afternoon dives thrown in for good measure. Due to ripping currents, most dives ended up being drift dives to one extent or the other. When a diver began to get low on air or time (we were allowed to dive our own profiles), the buddy pair got together and ascended, mostly while drifting out over open water. On the surface, we just signalled the boat pilot, who would immediately come to pick us up if not already helping other divers. Safety sausages and whistles (at a minimum) are definite musts when diving these waters, due to strong and unpredictable currents (which sometimes change mid-dive). We rarely surfaced far from the boat (the pilot would anticipate approx. where divers would come up) and were never out of sight/sound range. These guys are good!

Surface intervals were spend on a small nearby island, where we were allowed to snorkel, search for shells above the waterline or to simply bask in the sun (or shade, if you preferred) in conveniently located lounge chairs on the beach. While snorkeling, my buddy was finding pretty shells she wanted to show me, so she began putting them down the front of her skin as kind of a convenient pocket. A few minutes into this activity, she came to realize that there was something alive inside one or more of those shells, and apparently they wanted out. She was nearly dancing on water trying to get those critters out of her suit. I thought it was funny. She didn't laugh.

Part Three will continue the adventure.
 
Part Three

We celebrated our 100th dives on that beach with a great group of new friends and two packages of Tim-Tams. Those things are delicious! Where can one get those in the States?

If you get the chance to dive Taveuni, the Great White Wall, Annie's Bommies, Fish Factory and Rainbow's End are must dives. The crew took careful notes on where each diver had already dived with them to avoid repeating sites. Out of all our dives with them, we only dived two sites more than once.

On the second dive day, I managed to somehow flood one of my strobes, so I had to re-rig the system and just use a single. Then on the third day, before the first dive, I discovered the inflator button on my low pressure hose had been torn to the side, exposing the little valve inside. We did a quick temporary fix to allow me to control air input/output, but toward the end of the second dive of the day it began to malfunction. I dumped air at the bottom prior to ascending and I could hear the air slowly going back in. At the surface, I inflated my BC only to have the air immediately released. I would have disconnected the hose and inflated manually, but we were so close to the boat that I didn't bother. Back at the shop, they temporarily installed a different inflator hose and connected an octo to my reg (my BC inflator hose is part of my Safe Second). The only thing I can figure is that my inflator hose got damaged when going into the crate at the end of the day before or prior to diving on this day. From now on, my BC and other gear will stay with me.

Once our week was over, it was time to re-pack for our afternoon flight back to Viti Levu. As we were doing so, I couldn't help but notice the sky turned black and the rain began coming down in torrents, sideways. Apparently, there was a cyclone sitting over the islands and was causing havoc with the local weather system. However, we were assured this "happens all the time" and we would likely be able to fly out. We were ushered back to the airport by the shuttle and had to have everything weighed. Again, we were not charged overage, although we were still a few pounds over. By the time we boarded our plane (slightly bigger, this time, with 12 seats), the storm had all but come to a complete stop. However, being a Doubting Thomas, I still popped a Bonine an hour before flight time, just in case. We made a quick stop in Savusavu (sp?), to pick up passengers and fuel up. We were told to de-plane, so naturally, everybody made a beeline for the bathrooms. They were in horrible condition, were filthy, reeked badly of waste and the toilets did not flush. The flight from Suvasuva to Nadi on Viti Levu was short but wild. Although I had consumed the Bonine in a timely fashion, I still felt on the verge of losing my lunch at any moment. The plane pitched and yawed and then suddenly, the bottom fell out and the plane dropped a good ways. If we hadn't all have been belted in, someone would have gotten at the very least a serious head injury.

Finally, we landed at Nadi safely, retrieved our luggage and met a representative from Wananavu to be shuttled to the resort. Wananavu's manager, Adrian, was also a passenger in the shuttle, just returning from a business trip to Australia. The shuttle van was roomy, comfortable and clean with air conditioning controls for rear passengers as well as the front. Approx. three hours later (many roads were flooded over due to heavy rains and driving was difficult), we arrived at the resort.

How many ways can I say we loved this place? A Fijian gentleman, in bare feet and rain slicker, lugged our bags through the torrential rain down the winding path to the bure. We had a beachfront bure equipped with refrigerator, mini bar, French press for coffeemaking, hot water maker, etc. Best of all, there were no phones! The soap they provided was wonderful. Be sure to take any extras home. Breakfasts were buffet-style and included cold cereals, fruit, potatoes, different types of breads, bacon, omelettes made to order, juice and coffee. Lunches and dinners were outstanding. I had no complaints about this resort. It was what I would consider to be a four-star facility. In addition to an on-site dive shop (Kai Viti), the resort offered educational talks about the Fijian culture, kayaking, tennis, field trips to nearby villages, snorkeling, fish-feeding, etc. Every employee I had the pleasure to encounter, bar none, was friendly, outgoing and eager to please.

We were scheduled to dive the next morning with nearby Ra Divers (Kai Viti was completely booked). However, we were kept awake all night with a brilliant display of lightning, thunder, torrential rain and strong winds. When things didn't look any better by the time we ate breakfast, I called Ra from the lobby and cancelled. We also ended up cancelling the next day's dives as well. Instead, I took the opportunity to do something I hadn't done for a long time on vacation--I relaxed, nearly completing the novel I was reading, beachcombing for treasures and meeting other resort guests. I can't recall one single meal where we didn't encounter interesting folks, from all over the world. We would spend hours just talking to our new friends about diving, travel (not all our new friends were divers) and yes, politics.

It was over all too quickly and we had to get back to jobs and other commitments. On the way back to Nadi, our shuttle driver would stop occasionally and let me out to photograph the beautiful, lush countryside and one spectacular sunset. He kept apologizing that when we had originally gone to Wananavu, it had been dark and we couldn't take in splendor of it all.

We had arranged to get to the airport early. Once again, my travel agent/dive buddy finagled us around and got us into Business Class. Good thing, too, since before we went through security, all carryon items were weighed and some coach passengers had to remove items from their hand luggage and check them. A couple drinks (okay, maybe three or four) drinks in the lounge and a light snack and I was able to relax again and looked forward to getting home.

LAX was, as always, a friggin' nightmare. A water main was broken (isn't something always broken there?) and we had to taxi in to another terminal. The Immigration and Customs lines were long (due to extra incoming flights) but ran smoothly. On the other side of Customs, I moved to place my bags on the Luggage Recheck machine, as I have done a hundred times before, when an airport employee yells at me that we had to take our bags with us to our connecting ticketing counter to be checked. What the? If somebody can tell me why this procedure has changed (other passengers were doing it the old way) and why, I would greatly appreciate it. So, we had to jog from the international section of the airport to domestic, check in at the ticketing counter, check our bags, go through security and finally run with our carryon luggage just in time to board our plane before the doors were closed.

Anyway, it's good to be home, but we're already booked a trip to Roatan, next spring. We do plan to return to Wananavu and to dive with Kai Viti Divers, but next time we won't go during the rainy season.

I'll add photos after I post this part of the trip report.
 
Sounds like you guys had a great vacation that was well worth the wait.....I can see your buddy dancin' and hollarin' about the shells...eeeeeee!


sad you had to come back home....already have your next vacation lined up?
 
Yup, definitely doing Roatan at the end of May. My boss is going to kill me!
 
Two small lionfish, just hanging out on the Great White Wall
lionfish-hanging-IMG_0572.jpg
 
pink-coral-0598.jpg
 
corals-and-fish-0563.jpg
 
I couldn't believe how healthy and colorful the coral was. I've never seen so many fish in one place, either.

I'm still trying to find my pics of the spiders to post.
 
Banana spider:

banana-spider1.jpg
 

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