Fantasea housing trouble - buyer beware

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This I wholeheartedly agree with. If the customer has certain specifications that is properly communicated to the manufacturer or dealer beforehand, the onus is then on the manufacturer or dealer to provide the proper solution given the (presumed) expertise the dealer would have in his own products. If subsequently there is a compatibility problem, it would not seem right that measures to rectify the situation be on the customer's dime.
 
Warren_L:
This I wholeheartedly agree with. If the customer has certain specifications that is properly communicated to the manufacturer or dealer beforehand, the onus is then on the manufacturer or dealer to provide the proper solution given the (presumed) expertise the dealer would have in his own products. If subsequently there is a compatibility problem, it would not seem right that measures to rectify the situation be on the customer's dime.
Were singing the same song Warren. Maybe my point is clearer to those who read this now. I hope that Fantasea can understand what I'm saying too.
 
As of yesterday, this is the cost of my trip to Fantasea Island
(you remember that old TV show --- Boss, the plane-the plane!!!!! --- Yes Tatoo.).

2 shipping charges from Optical Ocean to me = $50.00
1 replacement port (they now have two ports I've paid for in their possession) = $150.00
1 shipping charge to send all back to Canada from me = $137.00

Grand total = $387.00

All to test drive a housing that has now been redesigned because it would not work. In the words of the commercial .... priceless :shakehead .
 
Sorry to hear that Bill. I guess all you can say in this situation is, Live and Learn.

SeaYoda:
As of yesterday, this is the cost of my trip to Fantasea Island
(you remember that old TV show --- Boss, the plane-the plane!!!!! --- Yes Tatoo.).

2 shipping charges from Optical Ocean to me = $50.00
1 replacement port (they now have two ports I've paid for in their possession) = $150.00
1 shipping charge to send all back to Canada from me = $137.00

Grand total = $387.00

All to test drive a housing that has now been redesigned because it would not work. In the words of the commercial .... priceless :shakehead .
 
Thanks guys. I'll be posting what happens with buyer protection as I get answers. I'm already finished with PayPal and they were pretty lame. I'll post more about that later. My credit card company is working on it now. Maybe my loss will be someone's gain.
 
Sorry for your loss, but you may have came out cheap. I can just imagine the poor soul spending hundreds if not thousands on a expensive U/W strobe system only to find out that there are inexpensive units that do the same job if not better.

Zoom lenses have come a long way from the Vivitar zoom days but the will not replace the True Macro Prime lenses.

Primes can focus much closer (true macro), are much brighter for quicker focusing, the least amount of lens elements makes for better picture quality and the fact that you would need a special lens port for your U/W housing just to control the manual zoom RING on a DSLR camera (the point and shoots use an electric motor to adjust the zoom). This will add to the cost of the U/W housing.

Yes for TOPSIDE photography like for the amateur weekend wedding photographer, where you need a wide range of lens sizes real quick, the zoom lens is the way to go.

With U/W photography the water’s visibility will determine the type of lens you would be using, at poor visibility you better have lens that can focus really close and have a real bright screen. U/W photography is a slow methodical process, knowledge of the subject’s behavior; light balancing, strobe placement, camera angles etc come to play.

I usually start with a “recon” dive on an unknown reef with a close focus wide-angle lens and wide-angle strobes to get an overall feel of the environment. At the same time noting down any macro opportunities for the next dive when I switch lenses and smaller strobes to macro. Some divers just take several cameras with them.

I just hope that your experience with a lower cost housing manufacturer, does not discourage them from making their lower cost products if only to keep the competition honest.
 
f3nikon:
Sorry for your loss, but you may have came out cheap. I can just imagine the poor soul spending hundreds if not thousands on a expensive U/W strobe system only to find out that there are inexpensive units that do the same job if not better.

Zoom lenses have come a long way from the Vivitar zoom days but the will not replace the True Macro Prime lenses.

Primes can focus much closer (true macro), are much brighter for quicker focusing, the least amount of lens elements makes for better picture quality and the fact that you would need a special lens port for your U/W housing just to control the manual zoom RING on a DSLR camera (the point and shoots use an electric motor to adjust the zoom). This will add to the cost of the U/W housing.

Yes for TOPSIDE photography like for the amateur weekend wedding photographer, where you need a wide range of lens sizes real quick, the zoom lens is the way to go.

With U/W photography the water’s visibility will determine the type of lens you would be using, at poor visibility you better have lens that can focus really close and have a real bright screen. U/W photography is a slow methodical process, knowledge of the subject’s behavior; light balancing, strobe placement, camera angles etc come to play.

I usually start with a “recon” dive on an unknown reef with a close focus wide-angle lens and wide-angle strobes to get an overall feel of the environment. At the same time noting down any macro opportunities for the next dive when I switch lenses and smaller strobes to macro. Some divers just take several cameras with them.

I just hope that your experience with a lower cost housing manufacturer, does not discourage them from making their lower cost products if only to keep the competition honest.

The choice of lens 14-54mm is actually quite a good lens.. it can focus as close as 8.6 inches (which is actually closer than the virtual image) so no diopters are needed..

The magnification is about .5x, this is about half the magnification of the 50mm macro lens (1.04x).. (closest focus is 9.5 inches).. the 14-54 can be raised to a magnification of .65x by use of an extension tubve (the 50mm gets doubled so anout a 2x)

The 35mm macro which is not as high a quality lens has a normal magnification of 2x and can take an extension tube to ~3.4x)
 
The optics on the 35mm are superb(albeit, not incredibly fast), its just the lense barrel itself that doesn't stack up against the pro-lenses in the Oly lineup.
 
padiscubapro:
The choice of lens 14-54mm is actually quite a good lens.. it can focus as close as 8.6 inches (which is actually closer than the virtual image) so no diopters are needed..

The magnification is about .5x, this is about half the magnification of the 50mm macro lens (1.04x).. (closest focus is 9.5 inches).. the 14-54 can be raised to a magnification of .65x by use of an extension tubve (the 50mm gets doubled so anout a 2x)

The 35mm macro which is not as high a quality lens has a normal magnification of 2x and can take an extension tube to ~3.4x)

I believe the photographer is using a 14-45mm Olympus zoom like my 14-45mm and not the 14-54mm. We talked about it here:

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?t=185372

I do not have a 14-54mm but it sounds good so far.

The Olympus 35mm marco with 6 lens elements compared to the 14-54mm zoom with 15 lens elements...which lens will produce the highest quality picture?

http://www.olympusamerica.com/e1/sys_lens_35mm.asp
http://www.olympusamerica.com/e1/sys_lens_14mm.asp
http://www.olympusamerica.com/seg_section/seg_pressDetails.asp?pressNo=438

The less glass the better for higher quality.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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