Trip Report Family Liveaboard - Firebird

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scubajasonr

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After a successful family liveaboard holiday in 2022 : Trip Report - Family Liveaboard on MY Thunderbird (and Breakers)

I planned a similar but different family trip for 2023. Again going with Deep Blue Cruises, but this time on their boat Firebird on a Wrecks & Reef route from Hurghada. My wife and myself have dived this northern route a couple of times in the past, this would be the first time for my kids (14 and 17) and would be the first time they get the opportunity to dive on proper wrecks.

The first five days in Egypt were spent at Breakers in Soma Bay doing some diving with Orca Divers. A similar enjoyable experience here to last year. The main difference to last year was all the rooms were refurbished over the winter, these were noticeably better than last year. Again Orca divers offered a professional service, we only did five dives (four on the house reef and one by zodiac) but they were all very relaxed with friendly and helpful staff.

After five days at it was time for the liveaboard. Deep Blue arranged a taxi from Breakers to the boat for us. This year’s trip was aimed at families with kids over 12 who had some diving experience. As it turned out there were only eight guests on the boat (the boat can take 16). It was my family of four, and then a father and son from Germany and a father and daughter also from Germany. I think my daughter had the least number of dives of any of the guests at 40 or so. All the parents were fairly experienced. We had two dive guides: Moussa, who I dived with last year and is an extremely experienced Red Sea guide having worked on Royal Evolution for many years, and his friend Allah, who is equally experienced. Normally just one guide would be in the water with us, but if they were splitting the group then both would dive. There was also a crew of eight on the boat, so with only eight guests it is fair to say we were very well looked after during the week. I wasn’t sure if Deep Blue would run the trip with this few guests, but they were happy to go ahead with the boat half full. We did leave a generous tip for the crew at the end as they gave excellent service during the week. Food was great, head chef Reda worked on Royal Evolution for many years, and it is fair to say that he takes great pride in the food he cooks – although at times I think he forgot there were only 8 guests given the quantity of food he kept making. I think this was my tenth liveaboard and this one probably had the best food.

Firebird is very similar to it’s sister boat Thunderbird, and is probably fair to say it is more traditional than some of the more modern liveaboards now operating on the Red Sea. It has a combined lounge and dining area, a sun deck on the first floor and all cabins below deck. Having spent a week on one of the newest boats in the Red Sea (Sea Legend) last year, I would happily pick Firebird or Thunderbird again. While it doesn’t have all the modern features of the newer boats, it just works really well as a dive boat.

Dives were all around 60 minutes, night dives around 45 minutes. No pressure to dive with or without a guide, the guides were always happy to dive if we wanted a guided tour of a site. Water temperatures were 28-30 degrees Celsius. Air temperature around 40 in the day and 30 at night. Often windy on the surface, but a very warm wind so it was easy to warm up after a dive. AC worked well in the boat, it was slightly noisy in the cabins so we often turned it off during the night.

On the boat my daughter did her Advanced Open Water, and my son his Deep speciality. Both got great instruction from Allah, I think he went well beyond the course content in his instruction, so I was more than happy with the training offered.

The boat had free nitrox. Fills were pretty consistent at 32%, and 200bar.

Day 1

Dive 1 - Once we had coast guard clearance we left shore and had a check out dive at Poseidon Reef. We did a full skills check at the start, and SMB deployment at the end. A nice relaxed dive, but nothing too exciting to see.

After the first dive the guides made the decision to head across to the Sinai area, as heavier seas were predicted for the next couple of day so making the crossing now would be good. As it turned out it was quite a rough crossing for a couple of hours, but once we got closer to land things calmed down.

Dive 2 – Beacon Rock. This was a dive from the back of the boat and was just a general explore of the area. A really nice site, with lots of hard coral. Plenty of stone fish and morays hidden away.

Dive 3 – Night Dive Beacon Rock. A really good night dive, generally just exploring the area we had dived on the afternoon dive. Highlights were a sea snake, Spanish dancer and a couple of trevally using our lights to hunt by.

Just a note about the night diving. For 2023 Egypt has changed it’s time zone in the summer, so it now gets dark at 8pm (last year it was 7pm) On the boat we would have dinner after the night dive, which did make it quite late to eat. Watching some of the other boats it looked like they had dinner earlier, and then dived at maybe 9pm. I am not sure either option was perfect. I think the other option would have been to squeeze four dives into the daylight hours, which probably would have worked.


Day 2
Today was my son’s 18th birthday. So a pretty exciting day for him. The chef cooked him a large cake for the evening, and they decorated the saloon and his cabin with some decorations we brought with us.

Dive 1 – Dunraven Wreck. This is a wreck from 1876, and the lowest part sits at 29m. From our mooring last night the Dunraven was a short zodiac ride away. For this dive we split into two groups with one going through the hold area, and the other stayed shallower and just looked around the outside of the wreck. This is always a nice dive with a very interesting swim thru, with lots of marine life to look out for . After the wreck it was a drift along the adjoining coral reef before zodiac pick up.

Dive 2 – The Alternatives. After the previous dive we moved to The Alternatives. These are a series of coral covered rock pinnacles on the edge of the Ras Mohamed National Park. I don’t think these are the best sites in the area, but gave slightly easier reef dives, and also worked well for the kids doing the Advanced OW courses. As we arrived lots and lots of day boats could be seen on the horizon heading out of Sharm. This dive was a fairly relaxed swim around one of the pinnacles, and surrounding reef area. Towards the end of the dive it was noticeable that lots of day trip snorkelers and discovery scuba divers had entered the water – it was sort of entertaining watching the random chaos. When we exited the water back on the boat, I was amazed at how many boats had arrived into the area, there must have been at least 50 day boats moored up within sight. The site stretches 3 miles, but it was still a lot of boats.

Dive 3 – The Alternatives. We waited until all the day boats had gone before starting this dive, and moved to a different pinnacle This meant we were the only boat on the site – the advantage of liveaboards! Another very relaxed dive, nothing outstanding to see, just lots of fish!

Dive 4 – The Alternatives Night Dive. We moved to another pinnacle and this time the plan was to follow the boats rear line to the pinnacle, swim around it, back to the line and back to boat. In reality it was a bit different as there was a fairly strong current flowing around the pinnacle. It took about 20 minutes to swim around so we did two circuits, each had a bit if swimming into the current, a bit of drifting and some relaxed water. Highlights on this were thousands of tiny glass fish which just hung out in the torch beams – slightly annoying as they also got into hair and clothes. A couple of jacks hunting, and free swimming morays. At the end of the dive it was a bit of a challenge to find the line to the boat, and a swim into the current back to the boat, although everyone made it back. A really good night dive, but also quite challenging conditions underwater.
 
Day 3
Dive 1 - Early morning we moved to a site called Small Crack. I haven’t dived here before and it was a great dive. The boat was moored in a lagoon surrounded by a reef system. We were taken by zodiac and dropped on the outer reef for a gentle drift dive, eventually we reached the small crack back into the lagoon, and find our way back to the main boat. This dive had an Eagle Ray, Turtle and Garden Eels.

Dive 2 – Kingston. We moved to Shag rock to dive the wreck on the Kingston. A lovely wreck from 1881, which is now covered in coral and has some open cargo areas that make easy swim thrus. The lowest point of the wreck is at 18m, so ideal for our group. Due to waves on the day this dive was to and from zodiacs. We had about 15 minutes to explore the wreck in buddy pairs before a group drift dive over the wonderful corals covering the surrounding reefs. This really is an exceptional dive site, with fish all over the wreck and reef. Again we had a nice turtle encounter.

Dive 3 – Thistlegorm. One of the highlights of the Wrecks and Reefs route. I have dived the Thistlegorm numerous times in the past, but this would be the first time that my kids have dived it, so I was really looking forward to the experience. When we arrived there were a couple of other liveaboards on site, but not busy like it used to be. For the first dive on the wreck it was a general swim around the upper areas. Conditions were actually fairly challenging on the dive as current was strong viz was fairly low. We were a group of eight plus guide for this, and the large group added to some of the challenge. I think both my kids found this dive quite hard as it was a step up in difficulty over previous dives on the trip.

Dive 4 – Thistlegorm Night Dive. Due to the strong currents at the surface the guides said the night dive was for adults only. In the past my wife and myself have dived the wreck at night in great conditions, so we didn’t feel the need to do this dive – it was also a good excuse for a sunset beer. As it turned out the three people (two guests & one guide) who did the dive said the current had dropped on the wreck and they had a really good dive

Day 4
Dive 1 - Thistlegorm. First dive today was a swim around the propeller and thru the lower cargo holds. Much better conditions than yesterday. The younger kids went on a shallower dive, which I think took in the upper levels of the boat again – I think they did do some of the easier swim thrus.

Dive 2 - Thistlegorm. This dive took in some of the lower holds we missed on the previous dive, and went around the upper holds. Current had really picked up for this one, so going inside the wreck really helped get about. Again we had two groups for this with a couple of the kids going on a shallower route with a guide. Lots of fun on the shotline on the way up due to the ripping current.

Dive 3 – After the excitement of the Thistlegorm we moved to Gubal Island to dive The Barge. I have dived this site quite a few times in the past and it is always an interesting dive based around the small wreck of an old wooded barge. There isn’t much left of the wreck, but what is left provides a habitat for lots of marine life. We had a very pleasant relaxing dive here, swam around the wreck for a while and then gently drifted over the surrounding reef before making our way back to the boat

Dive 4 – the Barge Night Dive. This site is great for a night dive as the old wooden wreck is full of life. For most of the dive it was just my family of four on the wreck. A hunting moray was about for most of the dive, and we were often accompanied by 5 giant trevally who were making the most of our dive lights to catch their food. Overall a great dive.

Day 5
Early morning we headed to Sha’ab Abu Nuhas for more wreck diving.
Dive 1 – Giannis D. Another classic dive site. On this we started with a swim around the engine room, before exploring the outside of the wreck. Not much marine life here, but a huge wreck to explore. We did hear dolphins when we were near the wreck, but didn’t see them.

Dive 2 – The Carnatic. Again another wreck dive with a small amount of marine life. Nice easy swim thrus on this wreck.

Conditions were pretty rough for these two dives, which did make for challenging zodiac rides to and from the wrecks. The boat crew did a great job allround.

Dive 3 – We moved to Sha’ab El Erg (Dolphin House) a pretty rubbish dive here, just a swim around the lagoon and channel, didn’t see any dolphins

Dive 4 – Night Dive. As we weren’t impressed with the last site we moved onto Um Gamar. When we arrived there was a really strong current flowing and given the nature of the site (exposed location and big drop off) the initial thought was that it wouldn’t be possible to night dive. Luckily towards sunset the current dropped slightly and the guides were happy for just the adults to night dive. It is fair to say there was still a strong current flowing as we pulled ourselves down the mooring line to the reef. Once on the reef we probably had about five minutes of swimming into a strong current (more like hiding behind rock pinnacles) before we entered some slightly slacker water. After a bit of time exploring we then had a fun night time drift back to the mooring line. Overall another excellent night dive.

Day 6
Dive 1 & 2 Umm Gamar. We had two nice relaxed dives here to finish the trip off. I think this is one of the better sites to end a Hurghada based liveaboard at, on other boats we have ended up at very mediocre sites close to Hurghada. In comparison Umm Gamar has a very pretty reef with lots of life and a deep drop off.

After the morning dives it was back to Hurghada to refuel before heading back to the final mooring. Dinner on the final night was on the boat and was the usual high standard we had come to expect during the week.

Day 7
Check out was at 10am, and DeepBlue had arranged a minibus to take us to our final hotel.

After the trip we stayed for a few nights at Sultan Bey hotel in El Gouna. We really enjoyed it here, a very small quiet hotel, and was great to relax in after the week on the boat.

Overall we had an excellent trip. Once again we found that DeepBlue provided an amazing trip considering the price. While the boat was older and smaller than others operating in the area, the service and food was very very good. Downside is that they mainly target German guests, so if you are travelling solo, or in a small group, you may find you are the only English speaking guest/s onboard. The crew and guides do all speak good English. Briefings on this trip were in English as the German guest were all fluent, on our previous trip they did a German briefing and an English briefing.
 
I will post some photos once the forum allows it.
 
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