Faber outside rust

[DA Aquamaster]

That makes sense as painting brings up a whole new set of environmental regulations and issues.

I know the tanks I have seen that Faber made for OMS had the white Faber paint under the yellow OMS paint, so either Faber painted them after pulling them off the end of the normal production line for another coat of paint or a third party did the new paint layer.

 

[Puffer Fish]

It seems that this coating adhered very strongly to the metal (which doesn't have a smooth finish, but rather a coarse one. I am only worried about painting the spot - how well will the two kinds of paints (the original one and the epoxy one advised here) adhere to each other and stopping the water from going under (because after I paint it, it would be hard to know what happens beneath.

Interesting...sounds as if the tank was sand blasted (the rough surface) and then just coated. Depending on the two materials, you may have an adhesion issue.. would test before doing a larger area.

I would go with the zinc suggestion first...but with only a small spot having zinc, you can expect the zinc to quickly turn to zinc oxide...but it will stop the rust.

Not sure of the metal alloy of that tank, it may be that all it will do is surface rust.. in which case it just looks ugly...but is no functional issue.

 

[widget]

I would have to ask "how old is the cylinder"?

I have visited Faber in Italy many times over the past 25 odd years I have been in this business, and I cant recall ever seeing Faber using any type of non standard coating they did not approve themselves first.

The modern standard Faber Paint is really quite excellant and withstands most normal wear and tear or abuse, so I am surprised you have a differant "covering," - although I guess Faber will do whatever a big customer like Mares requests, it seems odd, why re-invent the wheel when the standard paint is so good.
If its a modern tank, is it not possible it was re-coated later and is not a standard Faber finish?

If its an older cylinder, its probably very likely it is re-coated.

 

[vixtor]

It is a brand new tank, purchased last year. The markings on the neck are:
M25x2 EN144 EN 1964-1 I FABER 07/2859/103 CE 1370 UT 5.3MM
18.3KG V15.0L PS232BAR AT 15^C PT 372BAR TS -50+65^C # 2008/01 BREATHING APPARATUS

please read ^ as the small superscript 0 - the "degrees" sign
and # is in fact a V with 3 horizontal lines over it - like a chinese sign (i think it is the symbol of the hydro facility)

here is a link with photos:
Picasa Web Albums - Victor - Mares

the grey area around the rust bare metal is the rubber-like thing, not the steel itself.

 

[widget]

It is a brand new tank, purchased last year. The markings on the neck are:
M25x2 EN144 EN 1964-1 I FABER 07/2859/103 CE 1370 UT 5.3MM
18.3KG V15.0L PS232BAR AT 15^C PT 372BAR TS -50+65^C # 2008/01 BREATHING APPARATUS

please read ^ as the small superscript 0 - the "degrees" sign
and # is in fact a V with 3 horizontal lines over it - like a chinese sign (i think it is the symbol of the hydro facility)

here is a link with photos:
Picasa Web Albums - Victor - Mares

the grey area around the rust bare metal is the rubber-like thing, not the steel itself.

Hmm, yes you are right, its a standard Faber 232 bar working pressure, 372 bar test pressure, 15 litre cylinder, M25 x 2 valve thread, recessed neck O-ring cylinder, manufactured in January 2008.

I had a close look at the pictures and the finish (the roughness you explained) is clearly visible, but this is quite common with these Faber cylinders, which as you probably know, are not galvanised.

I misunderstood you initially, thinking the ENTIRE cylinder had been coated with a finish which was "soft" for want of a better word, hense my comment, but I see now the finish looks pretty normal for Faber, and going by the pic, it looks exactly as I would expect.

I dont think you need worry too much, but I wouldnt just leave it as rust will soon set in, its very small so, from my experience, a quick touch up as follows will be fine, just remember never use anything but AIR DRYING products on your cylinder - feather the edges of the paint and undercoat with some light "wet and dry" paper until they are "blended", go gently, the area is small, then, prime the area with any good AIR DRYING primer and touch up with a good quality AIR DRYING black enamel paint, (we use those aerosol type spray cans) once its all dry you can polish it up and the repair will be fine, as its black, you wont have any colour matching issues.

This will be fine for most use, check it every 6 months or so and just touch up as required.

Its exactly what we do with our Faber cylinders and we have 160 of them, just remember and I cant stress it enough, only ever use AIR DRYING paint, never bake or heat the cylinder.

 

[vixtor]

I misunderstood you initially, thinking the ENTIRE cylinder had been coated with a finish which was "soft" for want of a better word, hense my comment, but I see now the finish looks pretty normal for Faber, and going by the pic, it looks exactly as I would expect.

yes, the ENTIRE paint has a "rubber" feeling, which is confirmed by the official Mares website description, and it is ~2mm thick.

a normal (by normal I mean what I see usually) Faber tank has a very thin paint, maibe less tan 0.1mm, and very strong (not rubber-like).

 

[spectrum]

yes, the ENTIRE paint has a "rubber" feeling, which is confirmed by the official Mares website description, and it is ~2mm thick.

a normal (by normal I mean what I see usually) Faber tank has a very thin paint, maibe less tan 0.1mm, and very strong (not rubber-like).

Did you mean .2mm thick?

 

[Puffer Fish]

yes, the ENTIRE paint has a "rubber" feeling, which is confirmed by the official Mares website description, and it is ~2mm thick.

a normal (by normal I mean what I see usually) Faber tank has a very thin paint, maibe less tan 0.1mm, and very strong (not rubber-like).

The white coating we have here is a high gloss white epoxy powder, and you are correct, it would be just under .1mm in thickness.

That looks like a high build urathane coating. After thinking about it, I would just do a surface rust removal, and put some spray on zinc to product the spot, and then see if I could get some high build Urathane to cover the zinc.

 

[Puffer Fish]

Did you mean .2mm thick?

He might, but the 2mm is very possible. If that was a nylon coating, then .2 would be very reasonable.

Note: My real life job is a chemical engineer that does coatings.

 

[vixtor]

Did you mean .2mm thick?

I meant 2mm, not 0.2mm (well - it's something between 1-2mm, hard to measure exactly, but you can see the thickness of a tangent cut). The vendor describes it as "soft touch polyurethane coating".

It is not the usual hard/shiny/thin enamel-like paint that shivers when hit. In this tank's case, the area that was hit was "cut up", still attached at one end, and it was a flexible ruber peeled from the steel.