Faber Hot Dip Galvanized Tanks - Anyone Have Experience With New Ones?

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I thought all faber tanks were white.
Depends on the market, and of course I'm just joking.

If you do a Google image search on Faber scuba, you'll see quite a few yellow ones. What's a little funny is that it seems as if the pictures of white Fabers are found on US websites, while yellow Fabers are found outside the US. Here, Fabers are consistently yellow.
 
I'm learning that any kind of service in this game is no better than a trust me dive and perhaps worse. I will learn to do all my own reg service and I'll test the air for CO and O2, especially when I didn't pump it myself. One of the biggest reasons I bought my own fill setup is because of the whole "taking the tanks in the back to fill them" thing. Not knowing how well any of it is maintained just leaves me uneasy and the more I learn about the system I bought the more I realize that I need to learn more and test more and inspect more and not just blithely breathe whatever somebody brings out to the boat or car. "It'll probably be ok" is not comforting. Now the truth is it probably will be ok and I'm probably more at risk driving to the dive shop to pick up my tanks but it's a feeling of safety I'm after. Real safety is harder to come by I suspect.
 
Would anyone care to speculate as to whether the Faber cylinders will have the same problems with hydro that plagued the PST cylinders (and the Worthington ones, for that matter, until Worthington got the permit changed)?
 
Would anyone care to speculate as to whether the Faber cylinders will have the same problems with hydro that plagued the PST cylinders (and the Worthington ones, for that matter, until Worthington got the permit changed)?
Wasn't the 'problem' with PST actually the hydro facilities not performing the test properly?
 
That depends on your point of view. I have three local hydro facilities. One of them refuses to follow the PST test protocol. They state that: 1) a manufacturer does not have the authority to modify the federal regulations, 2) it is unacceptable to perform a "system test" for any reason other than testing the system, and PST is using it to change the outcome of the requalification procedure, and 3) no cylinders would ever fail hydro if this procedure were always followed, ergo it must be an unsafe procedure.

Of the two remaining hydro shops, one doesn't issue + ratings, and the other won't deal with individual customers, only dive shops, which doubles the cost and turnaround time. And neither of these will perform shot blasting (or tumbling). It's a can of worms. I have to choose my hydro shop based on the type of cylinder. In some cases I've had to take cylinders to one place for hydro and another place for shot blasting.
 
Would anyone care to speculate as to whether the Faber cylinders will have the same problems with hydro that plagued the PST cylinders (and the Worthington ones, for that matter, until Worthington got the permit changed)?

then that shop isn't following the test procedures to the specification that those cylinders were manufactured to. They seem to think that they are following the same 3aa testing procedures, when in fact, they aren't.

Very few hydro shops will shot blast or tumble scuba tanks, takes too much time and effort and slows their process down. That job is typically reserved for the dive shops. DIY'ing a tumbler is not particularly difficult or expensive.

Since you have your own fill station, what does the + rating matter?

PST's don't have any issues with hydro other than hydro shops not following proper round-out procedures. As long as the procedures are followed, then the tanks will be just fine. The scare with PST's is because they have to renew the permit and they drug their feet a little bit on the last one. It got renewed and life is good. Worthington will continue to do the same and the DOT will continue to harass them every time it is due for renewal because they will otherwise have to deal with all of the individual requests and they really don't want that
 
then that shop isn't following the test procedures to the specification that those cylinders were manufactured to. They seem to think that they are following the same 3aa testing procedures, when in fact, they aren't.

Worthington amended their special permit to change the test procedure. PST did not, they simply issued "guidance."

The problem with recently made galvanized cylinders failing hydro when the rerounding procedure isn't followed isn't limited to exempt/special permit cylinders. I have a 40 cf 3AA Worthington cylinder that would have failed, but it failed by so much that the shop genuinely thought they had an equipment problem and retested it. Of course, it passed the second time. Perfect example of a problem of geometry rather than metallurgy. If the steel had been weak, the results would have been repeatable.

Very few hydro shops will shot blast or tumble scuba tanks, takes too much time and effort and slows their process down. That job is typically reserved for the dive shops. DIY'ing a tumbler is not particularly difficult or expensive.

The hydro shop that does shot blasting has such reasonable pricing and does such a good job that most of the dive shops use them. I believe they've built some sort of machine to do it, or have modified standard equipment to work specifically on the insides of cylinders. It's integrated into their process. They have industrial gas supply customers who send in cylinders for internal/external blasting, hydro, and paint, and they do it on an assembly line basis, very fast. I don't think it takes them more than a few minutes to shot blast a cylinder, and everything comes out. I've sent them old cylinders with liners and they come back clean.

Nonetheless, I agree, there is a tumbler in my future.

Since you have your own fill station, what does the + rating matter?

You probably remember the compressor I asked about several months ago. I never bought it, so, no fill station (Off topic, but the main problem was that the whole system was set up for 2400 PSI and could have maybe been pushed to 3000 PSI but was never going to fill an HP cylinder -- and the seller wanted too much money given the uncertain service history, low operating pressure, and "as is, where is" nature of the deal).

Some local shops will fill a 3AA cylinder "properly" regardless of the presence of the +, but it depends on who is working that day so I can't count on it.

PST's don't have any issues with hydro other than hydro shops not following proper round-out procedures. As long as the procedures are followed, then the tanks will be just fine. The scare with PST's is because they have to renew the permit and they drug their feet a little bit on the last one. It got renewed and life is good. Worthington will continue to do the same and the DOT will continue to harass them every time it is due for renewal because they will otherwise have to deal with all of the individual requests and they really don't want that

It's a little more complicated than that.

PST never amended their exemption, and so PST cylinders, even high-pressure ones, are subject to the 10% inelastic expansion limit. High-pressure exempt cylinders have to pass the REE, for 3AA cylinders it's optional and is what gives them the +. The PST guidance suggests following the round-out procedure, which some hydro shops respect while others do not. The renewal (non-)problem is what you say.

Worthington amended their permit to get rid of the 10% inelastic expansion limit, so the Worthington special permit cylinders just have to pass the REE. Worthington 3AA cylinders still have to pass the 10% inelastic expansion limit and those the re-rounding procedure is important because they will flex from a geometry change just like PST cylinders.

Anyway, the question remains as to whether the Faber hot dipped cylinders will have the same problem with geometry.
 
re: the original post, I've got a set of double LP85s with the hot dip, I like the coating better than the paint (which had a couple scratches already even though they were fairly new) and as doubles the LP85s are much easier to trim than the HP100s for me (somewhat limited shoulder mobility)
Mine are still super shiny, I'm actually looking forward to when they are more grey.
I say go get some :)
 
I'm picking 2 up this week. Will let you know thoughts after I've had a few ocean dives. I have a Worthington X7-100 that I also just got used.
 
About 5 months later and around 50 dives on each of the tanks they are doing OK so far. Way to early to know how corrosion resistant they are but they are holding up WAY better than the painted (Grey) Faber tanks.

One thing I have noticed is that these new Faber Hot Dip Galvanized Tanks (133cf) seem to get a lot hotter when filled than some other HP Steel tanks.
At first I thought it was a dive shop employee not paying attention or not bothering to fill the tanks to 3500ish PSI and I had to continually request the tanks be topped off when picking them up.

Then on a recent trip I made the following discovery.
Tanks were being filled off a bank at a dive shop up north, shop fills about 300-400 tanks a day and really moves them out. Banked 32% got dumped in the tanks 4 whips going at once all until the tanks hit 4100PSI at that point the whip gets shut down and the tank is "done" analyze it at the shop, check the PSI which is about 3900 and you are on your way, obviously knowing it will cool down as the tanks are warm/hot to the touch.
After several days of doing this I solved the mystery why my buddy always had fills of 3600-3700PSI while I was always around 3300-3400PSI these new Fabers seem to get hotter quicker, not sure the science behind it and will do a little more scientific experimenting as time/location allows.
 

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