Excess long hose

[Quarrior]

Mark,

In any case, in DIR your light is easily removable, either for ditachable weight, for removing entanglements, or keyholing. Putting the buckle on the inside is going to complicate the removal.

In my mind, you have to undo the main buckle holding the waist belt together in order to remove the buckle and light it is holding. So, what difference does it make if the release is on the inside or the outside? It's still easily removed once the main buckle is released.

Brian

 

[GreenDiverDown]

I don't think that it looks bad, Jonny. In your other pics it looks fine. I think that it might just be the angle the shot was taken from that makes it look too slack. Also, You have your light stowed...that can make your long hose bow out a little from the weight of the light head hanging down. I wouldn't change your hose lengths. Just tighten it up under your can when you notice that it is getting a little loose.

Uh...if I might offer an unsolicited opinion....cut those bolts down on the back side of your bands and use a cap nut.

And...

Even though I hold my can on in the usual manner with a weight belt buckle I think the idea of it being ditchable is becoming less important with the new cannisters. For instance, my Sandroff can is not even 2# negative...not much to ditch there...way different than the old style lead acid silos of yesterday.

 

[MonkSeal]

Mark,

In my mind, you have to undo the main buckle holding the waist belt together in order to remove the buckle and light it is holding. So, what difference does it make if the release is on the inside or the outside? It's still easily removed once the main buckle is released.

Brian

Muscle memory is the answer. What if someone else has to remove it instead of you? Do you expect him to look and try to find out your way? Or it's easier to have well known configuration?

My DR canister also isn't much negative but I don't want to put my team in situation to think about it when it's not a time for thinking.

 

[jonnythan]

Muscle memory is the answer. What if someone else has to remove it instead of you? Do you expect him to look and try to find out your way? Or it's easier to have well known configuration?

My DR canister also isn't much negative but I don't want to put my team in situation to think about it when it's not a time for thinking.

The rub here is that with the waist belt undone, if you pull the 'wrong' side of the buckle the same way you pull the 'right' side, it still comes undone

 

[jonnythan]

Uh...if I might offer an unsolicited opinion....cut those bolts down on the back side of your bands and use a cap nut.

And...

Even though I hold my can on in the usual manner with a weight belt buckle I think the idea of it being ditchable is becoming less important with the new cannisters. For instance, my Sandroff can is not even 2# negative...not much to ditch there...way different than the old style lead acid silos of yesterday.

Yup.. they stuck so far through the backplate the first time I dove them that I had to adjust them so another inch stuck out the back that morning before the boat left. I'll replace them with regular bolts some time this week..

Let me make clear that the D-ring idea was from Diver0001 and that was an idea I rejected from the beginning. I made the argument that the canisters aren't very ditchable anymore just to make the argument. My plan is to put the buckle on so it opens inward.

 

[MonkSeal]

The rub here is that with the waist belt undone, if you pull the 'wrong' side of the buckle the same way you pull the 'right' side, it still comes undone

Well, I don't know what kind of buckle you use but my buckle has nothing to pull from the 'wrong' side.

 

[Spectre]

Let me make clear that the D-ring idea was from Diver0001 and that was an idea I rejected from the beginning. I made the argument that the canisters aren't very ditchable anymore just to make the argument. My plan is to put the buckle on so it opens inward.

I wouldn't worry about the buckle. The buckle is there to keep the light in place when in proper trim as well as to keep it from falling off should you need to unbuckle your waistband. I used to put my buckle on the inside, but that made it a pain when I messed up and had it too far back in cold water and couldn't reach my switch. I also used to put it on pointing the other direction, so the opening of the buckle would tuck into the webbing of the canister light. That would inadvertantly open up sometimes if the can light slid back a little and then forward again.

But the reason I say 'don't worry about the buckle', is look at your long hose... You noticed the buckle issue because you noticed your long hose had a lot of slack. A lot of slack that runs close to where that buckle is. Fix the problem, don't "fix" effects. You're long hose caught your buckle and popped it open. Fix the long hose issue and you solve your buckle issue.

And besides, think through the point of the buckle and the results [as Roman I believe pointed out]. Re-positioning the light back and snapping the accidentally opened buckle is just a little annoying. Getting entangled and having to remove your waistband to loosen the buckle to move your light to deal with an entanglement..... that's a tad more annoying.

 

[BlueDolphin]

Hey.. n wheres that Scout light?

I'd like to see you ascending in a more horizontal position too.

 

[Jason B]

Muscle memory is the answer. What if someone else has to remove it instead of you?

Where does muscle memory come in here? Have you had to remove your buddies can light that often. The muscle memory to remove your can and someone else's can are not the same. In fact, do you have to remove you can in water so often that you have muscle memory from doing so?