Elphinstone - what is it like in late october?

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Just one comment without intending to hijack this thread for political discussions.
To put it gently: in every country (including yours), there are people who have different opinions or different views on what is right and what is wrong. That doesn't mean that everyone thinks that way and that the whole country is crap.
That said, it is a nice peculiarity of this forum that we come together over our common interest in diving and leave other topics out.
 
While they have lots of security checkpoints and scanners and all these things ... I do not believe its operated very thoroughly, so its more a show - no proof, my believe.

Look at these additional scanners at airports. Its just rushing through, the guy behind is not really looking if the monitor is even on... besides much too quick for humans to see something efficient.

In hotels they just let people go by, if they have seen them before.
 
Am i getting that right?
Your plan is to start your journey at 02:00 and drive in the night? in a rented car?
And then arrive at Marsa Shagra in time to jump on the zodiac to Elphinstone at 06:00?
Yes... why not? I will first drive around a bit to see how driving is and get a feel if I want to do longer trips myself. I love driving in other countries.

The security checkpoints are for tourist protection as tourism is a big income earning for Egypt. It was like that even back in 2019.

I went from Hurgada to Marsa Alam with Steven’s Taxis through MarsaAlam.com - Guide to the region, excursions, taxis and more. They are very reasonable. I think it would be best for you to hire a local diver & car from them. After the liveaboard trip, I have a full day to return to Hurghada. I think my flight was leaving Hurghada at 11pm. So I arranged for Steven’s Taxi to pick me up at 3AM at Port Ghalib and take me to Luxor and have a day tour there before taking me back to Hurghada. We may have passed about 10 check points on the way to Luxor. The driver just spoke to the police and explained the reason for passing the checkpoint. Most of the time he just said in their local language that he’s taking American tourist (pointing to me sitting in the back seat). The police would say “Ooh American”, give him a thumb up and waved us through. They must like American at the time for some reason. You can read more detail story in my BDE trip report, here:

I will certainly first do another trip to see how bad the driving situation is and the checkpoints.

The entire area is under military control to protect the tourist zone. The security we witnessed between Hurghada and Port Ghalib was incredible. Checkpoints on the road, letal detectors and bag conveyors / xrays to walk into a hotel... You wont walk into thr hurghada airport without a passport and a plane ticket and they scan you and your bag on the way in.

Those of you who get butthurt easily, please stop reading here...

Since we are on this topic, I will say this... Egypt is supposed to be at peace with Israel, and an ally to the US. However, after having experienced the level of security during my trip, do they really expect the world to believe they did not know Hamas built smuggling tunnels into [Sinai] Egypt in order to smuggle weapons and other things in? Sorry, I was born at night but not last night - Egypt is NOT our ally, they are supporters of terrorism. I even friended a crew member from the RSA1 and lo and behold I visited his page the other day and he was posting pro Hamas crap. Deleted and blocked.

So.... Am I glad I went to Egypt not knowing this? Yes - because like Cuba (which I will never go as a Cuban American) - like hell I will ever go to either place.
Why does the level of security indicate they are not an ally? Also wasn't it Egypt which warned Natenyaho about the attacks and they just ignored it? Its almost as if they knew and let it happen to get their excuse to attack. If they can rig exploding pagers they definitely knew something major was brewing.
 
Security in Egypt is very hit and miss. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not. A lot of the time, they just seem to be going through the motions without any real thought. Inconsistency is the norm. Other times, they want to hassle tourists and a little baksheesh smoothes the path. I've no doubt that if a group were planning nefarious activities, some of the security forces could be bought off. There must be hard working, heroic members of the police force and military in Egypt. I don't wish to besmirch them all, but this is my impression having travelled to the country many times since 1999.
 
Security in Egypt is very hit and miss. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not. A lot of the time, they just seem to be going through the motions without any real thought. Inconsistency is the norm. Other times, they want to hassle tourists and a little baksheesh smoothes the path. I've no doubt that if a group were planning nefarious activities, some of the security forces could be bought off. There must be hard working, heroic members of the police force and military in Egypt. I don't wish to besmirch them all, but this is my impression having travelled to the country many times since 1999.

Maybe hit and miss as it appears to you but deep down, Egypt is a police state and their intelligence service is very competent and working very hard to maintain security for tourists. There is a lot going on behind the scenes that you don't know and don't see. I can assure you of that based on personal experience and knowledge. Nothing is foolproof as is the case even in the most advanced countries but they are very serious about tourists security without a doubt.
 
They are very reasonable.
To be more specific so you can compare it with what it would cost you if you rent a car, here is the quote I got from Safwat, Marsala.com reservation manager, who turned out to be my private guide in Luxor (excellent guide, expert in Egyptology), back in December 2019:

“Hello Dan:
Thanks a lot for your kind reply.
Regarding the first transfer if you need it from Hurghada airport to Solymar Ivory Suite will cost 15 euros per sedan car for one way including the airport ticket and I doubt that there is any airport shuttle so you will may need that transfer.
And to book it we will need The arrival date, time and flight number as well as a name to write on the sign with the driver to recognize him at the exit of the arrival hall.
Regarding the private transfer from Hughada hotel to Port Ghalib Marina Aggressor 1 in a sedan car will cost 76 euros per car for one way.
And that one day private trip from Port Ghalib to Luxor and ending up at Hurghada airport will cost total 310 euros quoted privately for one person.
And to book this trip we will need the copy of your passport to be sent to me by email and after you arrive on Aggressor boat we will need to know the room number as these details will be needed for the travel permit which should be made latest 24 hours before the trip .
Thanks in advance and waiting for your reply to proceed.


Kind Regards
Safwat
Reservation Manager
marsaalam .com

+201010945699

Safwat even gave me a 3GB data local simcard that I can put into my unlocked iPhone so I could text him any questions or concerns I had during the trip. What a service!

I arrived in Hurghada like 3AM in the morning so, felt pretty good to have this Steven’s Taxis service to arrange airport pickup at wee hours. as shown in Safwat follow up email, below (how would you rent a car at that wee hours?):


“Hi Dan,
Thanks a lot for your kind reply.
All confirmed as following.
On arrival at Hurghada airport on the 21st of Dec at 2:55 hrs and on your way out from the arrival hall you will find our driver waiting for you holding a sign with your name on to take you to Solymar Ivory Suite hotel and payment of 15 euros to be made to him please.
On the 21st of Dec at 12:00 hrs other driver will pick you up from Solymar Ivory Suite to take you to Aggressor 1 at Port Ghalib marina and total payment of 176 euros (76 euros transfer + 100 euros deposit for luxor trip) to be made to him please and you will get a receipt with the payment as well as a free SIM card charged with 3 gb data bundle to be connected.
When you arrive on Aggressor please send me the cabin number there as it will be needed for the travel permit that we have to do latest 24 hours before your next trip to Luxor (very important so please don't forget)
On the 28th of Dec at 4:00 hrs our driver will pick you up from the boat at Port Ghalib marina to take you for that one day trip to Luxor and the rest of the payment 210 euros will be made to your guide when you meet him at Luxor and the driver finally will drop you off at Hurghada airport to catch your flight .
Thanks again and will be always at your service.


Kind Regards
Safwat
Reservation Manager
marsaalam .com
+201010945699
 
I will simply leave my hotel at 2-2.30AM, probably 0 traffic and can dive at 6.
I got it right...I will not elaborate on the driving. If you think that's feasible and a good idea, fine for me.

However, regarding popping up at 06:00 at Marsa Shagra and expecting getting a trip to Elphinstone with this 6 o'clock zodiac: that won't work because
- the zodiac may already be full (sometimes it is booked days ahaed by the guests on site)
- you will not have a reservation for this trip (deadline is 17:00 the day before)
- At 06:00 only the staff needed for the Elphinstone trip are on site. There will be nobody for the paper work (medical statement, brevet, number of dives, ...)
- the dive shop will not rent you tank or equipment without you having performed a check dive with one of their DM - Standard procedure there for everybody regarless off the number of dives. If the DM says fine, you will be allowed to dive there. If he/she says no, or only with a guide or whatever, it will be that. No ways to negociate.

In short: There is no reason to get up at 02:00 to drive from whereever you will stay to Marsa Shagra because you will not get to Elphinstone that day.
 

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