Educate Me About Buying Used Tanks Please.

[kc9ljo]

So, I'm getting back into diving after many years. And when I did dive I rented gear. Now I'm buying my own gear and I need to buy used as much as possible. So my question is what do I need to know before buying a used tank? I understand their is always a chance of getting ripped off. But assuming a seller is honest, what questions should I be asking? Thanks

 

[Diver0001]

Like any used gear you will have to account for possible maintenance costs

In the case of tanks the big thing would be if it needs a hydro/visual. I would personally look for a tank with a current hydro that hasn't been empty. If you buy a tank out of hydro and it fails hydro you're basically SOL.

The other thing that might cost few bucks is if the valve needs maintenance. I'm not sure what that costs but it's parts aren't expensive and it's about 20 minutes of work.

R..

 

[DiverDownD3]

Most places will not hydro an aluminum tank manufactured before 1991.

NOTE: I can't remember if that also applies to steel. Someone with more experience can chime in

 

[Compressor]

There is no issue with steel tanks. There are steel tanks out there that are older than their owners and provide faithful service.
Great points above.
Another issue/bonus: Many shops will give you a new tank with VIP included and a 10 fill air card (included). Look for current hydros but its not unusual to buy a new tank which has a hydro 6-mo to 1 year out.

Enjoy your shopping.

 

[snowdog61]

Luxfer pre- '88 are a no-go due to the 6351 alloy. Catalina is fine as they were all 6061. BUT, as was said earlier, there is a phobia about accepting any aluminum tanks older then 15 yrs even with a valid hydro and a VE stamp. check the thread on here about the "bad alloy tanks". Steel tanks should last a lifetime - especially the hot dipped galvanized ones (PST, Worthington/XS Scuba) but good luck finding ones at a reasonable price. Hard to beat a steel 100 IMHO

 

[Jayfarmlaw]

I have bought 10 used tanks and had no problems. Aluminum tanks had an alloy in the late 80's, early 90's that had some issues. A simple google search will identify the alloy, brands, and years. If it has a birthdate after 2000, it won't be one of those tanks. If you buy a tank that is out of vis and hydro, it will cost me around $50 ( I have several options for hydro locally) for hydro, vis, and fill, assuming you live in an area with access to a shop that does it. Figure that into the price you pay. It will be cheaper and probably faster if you can find the company that your LDS uses for hydro and just take it to them.

Steel tanks, steel rusts. I bought 2 steel tanks that had rust in them that tumbling would not clean up...they had to be bead blasted. One shop would not pass visual, I took them the tank service company and had no issues. The cleaned up fine and were passed. I still saved a couple of hundred on the tanks, but it was more than I wanted to give by the time it was done.

In a perfect world, if you found a set of used tanks and cut a deal, the seller would guarantee visual. On steel tanks, if they are out of vis, it would be more important. I guess you could drain the tank, unscrew the valve and take a look if the seller was ok with that.

Valves. Every now and then I will see a tank with the old J valve on Craigslist. I'd pass on that. Just make sure that the valve is either din or yoke depending on what you need. I like the din tanks with the allen head yoke adapters screwed in....but I doubt I ever will need a din valve.

All tanks I have bought have had air in them. I would be very cautious of a used tank with no pressure.

Good luck,

Jay

 

[dytis-sm]

Hate to repeat all the useful info above. Bottom line familiarize with reading the tank info and stay focused on the hydro. You could save a little only to turn around and spend it on hydro or viz very close down the line. There are some overpriced used tanks out there. My philosophy is to buy a tank that is at least 50% cheaper than new and current at least for 2-3 years on hydro. I only buy steel since they are more durable and help me distribute weight better. If you dive aluminum you can find deals for new ones from time to time that are better than buying used...

 

[Bob DBF]

Most places will not hydro an aluminum tank manufactured before 1991.

NOTE: I can't remember if that also applies to steel. Someone with more experience can chime in

A hydro shop will hydro anything.

A shop may not fill an old Al tank even if it is properly hydroed, please read the sticky at the top of the forum.


The OP should be looking for steel tanks as they will help offset the thermal protection when weighting. Although I dive in cold water, I started with AL tanks because of the price, but I stuck with newer tanks that were in hydro.

As with any used gear, do your research.


Bob

 

[Jax]

So, I'm getting back into diving after many years. And when I did dive I rented gear. Now I'm buying my own gear and I need to buy used as much as possible. So my question is what do I need to know before buying a used tank? I understand their is always a chance of getting ripped off. But assuming a seller is honest, what questions should I be asking? Thanks

jayfarmlaw listed good points. But to your questions to be asked:

If aluminum, was the born date (original hydro stamped in the line around the shoulder of the tank) before 1991? If so, it isn't worth your risk.
When was the last hydro?
When was the last visual inspection? If it needs either, make the sale dependent on passing each test.
What shop visualed the tank? Call the shop and ask if they remember any problems.
How scuffed or tore up is the tank? There is a certain depth of gouge that is acceptable, but a visual will look for this, too.
Is the tank painted? Beware the recently painted tank - it may cover unacceptable scars. ^^^

Now, if you find tanks that someone is selling at a garage sale (I don't know, they were xyz's, I'm just selling them), figure $50 for an aluminum and $100 for a steel. Beware the really old steels as they have different threads.

And if they are worthingtons (XSscuba), I would buy them in a heartbeat. But that is me.

 

[2airishuman]

So, I'm getting back into diving after many years. And when I did dive I rented gear. Now I'm buying my own gear and I need to buy used as much as possible. So my question is what do I need to know before buying a used tank? I understand their is always a chance of getting ripped off. But assuming a seller is honest, what questions should I be asking? Thanks

I bought all but one of my tanks used. Every one of them was out of hydro when I bought it, and they all passed. There are some things to be aware of however.

1) Know what tank you're buying. Sellers often don't have any idea, and so you have to rely on dimensions, weight, and the stamps on the neck. I bought one LP53 that the seller and I both thought was an LP72, for example.

2) Avoid pre-1991 aluminum tanks unless you are confident you can get them filled. Even then they usually aren't worth it because of the ongoing cost of eddy current tests.

3) Consider the valve type and condition. Valves really should be serviced every five years (or more often if there are signs of corrosion or contamination), which adds cost, and if the valve doesn't meet your needs (yoke vs. din, modular vs. not) you'll end up having to replace it.

4) Do some research and line up places that can do tumbling (or shot blasting), hydro, VIP, and valve maintenance ahead of time and find out the costs, unless you have the skills and equipment to do some of these things yourself.

5) Try to end up with matching tanks so you don't have to adjust weights and trim based on what tank has air in it that day.