eBay auction do's and dont's

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Scubaroo

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Okay, I just did a search on ScubaBoard, and eBay has been mentioned in 833 topics to date. I've just scored another bargain off eBay on the weekend, a new 300 bar Sea Elite manifold for $126.50, normally $161.45, which comes hot on the heels of my drysuit, which I paid $549 for new, versus $800+ new. Not to mention a new Luxfer 40cf tank and other bits and pieces.

I thought we could start a link with our eBay "tips" for buying and selling - here's my experiences:

Buying
- before bidding, ALWAYS check a user's feedback, even if they are a seller with feedback in the thousands. Often sellers have high feedback, which masks poor selling tactics. A seller with a feedback rating of 1000, with 50 negatives, sounds like a good seller, until you do the math - that's 1 in 20 buyers p'd off enough to post negative feedback. Not very good odds for a hassle free auction. I always search through a seller's feedback and read the last couple of negatives, even if they were months ago, to suss them out and see what type of problems buyers encountered. I then look at the feedback of the person who left the negative feedback - do they have stellar feedback themselves, or are they a serial complainer? Is the buyer selling goods like digital cameras that they don't hold, and simply drop-shipping from the distributer, and then claiming it's not their problem if there's a warranty issue? Are they selling reconditioned goods as new?
- place a token bid on the item so that it stays in your bidding history, and then snipe. Shocking, unethical tactic, but it works. eBay wants you to bid high early - so you get outbid, and they can collect higher fees on a higher final price. But face it - sniping is a legitimate auction tactic. If you put the last bid in, no-one can outbid you. You're the buyer - it's your money you're saving. Let someone else bid an item up to meet the reserve, don't give them stepping stones to an even higher price. And don't continually make small incremental bids that keep you on top as the winner - that just fosters the other people competing for the item to snipe themselves at the last minute, because it shows there's competition for the item. Place a low, early bid, then log back in a few minutes before the auction ends, feigning disinterest until literally the last minute - and then snap up a bargain.
- be alert for shill bidders - dummy users set up by the seller, so that the seller can log in as someone else and bid on their own items to force a higher price. Typically these shill bidders have very low feedback, and may even be feedback from the sellers themselves, on totally unrelated items from months previous. A bidder with a feedback of only 2 or 3, of which one is from the current seller, is an immediate alarm bell, especially if the previous items they bought are totally different - the odds of someone bidding on a piece of scuba gear from the same person they bought a toaster from 3 months ago are just too far out to be legitimate. Report suspected shill bidders to eBay - they're costing you money.
- pay by credit card when you can. Money orders are like cash - the one time I got duped on eBay was with a money order - the only recourse to get my money back was to take the guy to court. Credit cards allow you to file complaint with the credit card company direct. PayPal is no guarantee that you will get your money back in even of a scam either - read their terms and conditions very closely.

Selling
- best time to list an item is 7pm PST, 10pm EST, on Sunday night. Why? Most people are home, or can be home if they really want to bid on your auction. It's the reverse tactic to the sniping tip above - set your auction up so as many people as possible are near a computer to snipe and countersnipe! It's fun watching half a dozen bids come in on the auction within the last 2 minutes, all driving up the final price, all money into your pocket :)
- photos sell the item. List two identical items, one with a photo, one without a photo, and the one with the photo will sell for a higher price. Why? People know exactly what they're buying. DON'T use stock images - if you want to sell a BC, don't pull the image from the manufacturer's website, even if it is a brand new never used item - get hold of a digital camera and take a photo of it on a hanger on the back of a door - people want to see that you actually have the item, and that it really is new, and it really is the model you say it is in the description. Plus it gives the buyers more confidence that you aren't running a scam.
- PayPal - this one deserves it's own category. If you have a personal account, be aware that you can only accept payments from people with funds actually already in their own PayPal account, or linked directly to their checking account. I got stung with the spring straps I was selling - people kept trying to pay me from PayPal accounts that were linked to credit cards, and when you do the free "upgrade" to a Premier account to accept credit card payments, PayPal sting you exhorbinant fees for just receiving money, regardless of if it was a credit card payment or not. I sold a $370 item on eBay, and PayPal stung me $15 just to receive the money into my account! Despite explicitly stating in auctions that only personal PayPal account payments are accepted, the majority of people will try and pay you from a credit-card linked account (mostly through ignorance of how PayPal works), and you can't take the money without incurring a fee on that and all subsequent PayPal transactions to your account, and when you reject their payment and insist they pay from existing funds, they either pull out of the auction and you lose the sale, or you run the risk of them leaving negative feedback about you. For this reason I prefer money orders for payment - takes longer, but you don't have to deal with the idiots that don't understand the difference between "funds in PayPal account" and a credit card. I won't be using PayPal again for selling items on eBay - their fees are ridiculous.

Feel free to add your own tips!
 
I have to disagree on the PayPal thing, folks find it a pain in the butt to run out & get a money order. If there's a choice between a couple items, I always take the "instant gratification" route, even if it cost a little more.
If you're doing any amount of selling at all, PayPal is an absolute necessity if you want to consistantly rake in top dollar.
The way to knock the edge off the higher fees is to get a PayPal debit card, they give 1.5% cash back on purchases.
I pay the mfgr for my goods with the card & skim the cream off the top of the account afterwards.
Another thing to keep in mind is to offer a "100% happy or your $$ back" (minus shipping) guarantee.
Trying to snipe during the prime time sunday evening can have its own problems, like bogged down action from the high volume.
Sniping software pays for itself very quickly.
I use http://www.isnipeit.com/ There's a 20 day free trial, my first use of it was to pay for the software in the final 5 seconds of its auction. (they sell it on ebay too)

I'm not a shareholder in PayPal or iSnipeit, by the way.:D
Just ebay.:wink:
 
How does this work - does it draw down on the funds in your PayPal account?
 
"Snipeing"
I never new it had a name but i use a simular tactic which has won many auctions .
I browse through the list and any thing i want i will add to my "watch item" because if i bid people know i'm intrested .I then add to a file the item and end date and time .then i do my reaserch to find the exact retail price and then add to file with also the max price i am prepared to pay. I check daily to see how/if any biddings going if it goes above my max i will cross of file or revaluate.
When it comes to the end date i also wait to the last minute and then put my bid in ( sometimes its 5 in the morning if i want it bad)
.BUT always put in the max bid in you were prepared to pay ,even though your bid will only increase by the stated incements.So if anyone else is "snipeing" they will be told they are already out bid by another bidder.This has 2 good points the time is runnig out and they may not have a chance for another bid and if they bid again they have to guess your max bid or go really high which will be above your max anyway.
I have only lost one auction by using this and it was when my laptop froze 3 minutes before the end and i could not restart it in time ;-0 and was out bid.

PS this only works on the US ebay and not the UK.So if anyone reading this in the Uk please disregard all of the above:D

Regards,

MAL...
 
Why wouldn't sniping work on eBay in the UK (I realise there are different eBay sites for each country) - do they have different policies?

I agree on bidding the full amount you wish to pay when sniping - if you want it, bid the most you would want to pay for it - but do it in one go to cut other bidders out at the last minute, don't work towards the price.

Comparitive shopping is a good point - Leisure Pro for example sell stuff on eBay, and their starting price is the same price as you can buy the stuff from them via their website, and they will put a Buy It Now price of $10 higher or so! Divers Supply however will put a LOT lower starting price and reserve on items than what they are listed on their website (which is how I picked up my manifold and drysuit so cheap).

Yahoo Shopping and Froogle are good places to get comparison prices.
 
jeeze - I sell on eBay professionally (for my customers) and
personally (for extra $$)...I could go on and on about the tips.

PAYPAL: PayPal has become an essential part of eBay.

A mandate from the users drove them to abandon their original plan of building up the competitor (BidPay) and finally swallowing PayPal.

I generally won't buy something if they don't take PayPal - and many others feel the same way.

What...? I can cyber shop, then I need to schlep down to the bank to wrestle with the bluehairs to get a bank check, then I need to go to the PO and wrestle with the bluehairs again to mail the check?

My time is worth more than that. Its been years since I've been to the bank or the PO with any frequency - because they're both byzantine institutions that move at glacial speed to complete the smallest transaction. I hate them. If you're under 70 and still visiting a bank or the postoffice more than once or twice a year, you need to shake yourself.

OK - sidebar rant completed.

You guys with businesses know Visa and MC charge between 2.4 - 2.9% (sometimes more...and AMEX is HUGE) PayPal is a reasonable 2.9-ish. Plus they drop it into my account, they provide user-to-user transfers with ease from other eBay shoppers, I have full history on line (many BANKS still don't offer that...) PayPal rules, and has allowed joe-garage sale to take credit cards. Its not as cheap as managing your eBay business through checks, buts its faster, provides transaction tracking (eBay doesn't...) and adds instant credibility to your listings.

Quick tips for Sellers:

1) Have your auctions END Sundays at 5:00 - 6:00 PM EST. before 60 minutes...

2) HTML ads sell more. If you're not an HTML geek (I'm not) go and simply right click a good looking, simple eBay add, look through the text until you find the iten description and lift that. I've been doing it for 4 years...its easy

3) Be real, be funny. Be genuine in your ad descriptions....if you're selling a beater, tell them its a beater, but it works. I get comments every week on my ad descriptions. My stuff sells.

4) use photos of the items...not web-lifted pictures. Photos of the actual item sellmore than suspicious we lifted pics.

5) be aware - go to "Search" and "completed items" and know the market price of your item (what your stuff is worth) before you list it. I bought a TLS 350 signature DUI drysuit with the Thinsulate undies, repair kit and other extras listed as "Divers Unlimited" (so no one else saw it) for $485. I turned it for $1265 the next week. Be aware, and hunt. There are treasures out there. treasures.

6) be creative - everything sells. You can sell the most unimaginable stuff on eBay. Right now, I'm selling my drysiut boxes. THE BOXES. I'm reaching out to other Drysuit owners that want to increase the resale of the suits they're about to sell on eBay. By selling these, it will drop my price of acquisition for those suits another $30 or so.

7) Open a UPS account - You get immediate discounts on UPS rates, you can do all of your stuff at home from your PC (no trip to the PO) and UPS picks up! DO NOT go to Staples, Boxes, etc. or those places. You'll pay way too much.

eBay is all that. Think about this: sales generated PER CUSTOMER by eBay's more than 24.2 million registered users in Q3 2002 alone was an eye-popping $511 EACH. I could go on and on. somebody stop me...

Bottom line is this: I've been very blessed this year to turn over 5-digits on eBay sales. Its absoutly changed the way I live and is surely the greatest thing that's ever happened to the internet, which is about the greatest thing to happen in my lifetime.


Ken
 
Don't get me wrong - for the small stuff I like using PayPal. And it would be a definite "must-have" for people like yourself turning over a lot of stuff on eBay - I'm more of a couple of items a year seller.

So you must be the "mo2vation" I see selling stuff on eBay! Thought those drysuit boxes were a bit of a laugh, no doubt you'll sell them.
 
Scubaroo ,
I am not sure how they differ from US to UK but i was trying to put off the UK bidders of my tactics so they don't use them on me!! I'm glad someone feel for it !:D

I think we have the some idea on max bid but different wording.

Say an item is $100 and the next bid is going to be $110 i will put in a max bid of $150 and a bid of $110 .So if the next bidder bids $120 i will still be the highest bidder until some ones bid over the $150.Is the same over there..?

Plus if i ever contact the seller i always email back thanking them for there time and i am not interested because either too old ,new,wrong colour,size ,anything .Just to be polite and too make them think i'm not interested.

Regards,

MAL...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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