Lots of opinion here, heh. Where to begin on such a seemingly simple subject? Faber HP cylinders are not covered with a simple cosmetic paint. They are paint over zinc. The zinc is flame sprayed forming a really tough finish, almost as good as hot dip but not quite. The reported problems with rust involve branded tanks imported by OMS, not Faber generic. The INSIDE of the Faber is coated with iron phosphate eliminating the powder rust seen in other brands. This is especially important when using high O2 mixes. Faber HP tanks are extremely tough with very thick steel sidewalls. They should pass hydro forever with no problem. As a result of the thick steel they weigh more than some other HP brands. They have very good balance in the water when used as singles (I have not dived doubles). Heavy weights and steel plates are not needed with these tanks elimating tricky balance problem with these add ons. This makes them more suitable for cold water divers.
For warm water diving, no suit, I prefer the PST HP's. They are light as a feather and can be slung on with little effort. They are galvanized, a time tested process for rust proofing. They have thin sidewalls, no interior coating and thus may be more delicate over the long run. They employ exotic metallurgy which may trip up hydro testers. One may find the process more tense, feeling the need to 'supervise' or question procedures. Both the Faber and PST are well suited for general SCUBA purposes.
For tech diving involving 'gases' there are those whom object to the HP partial pressure requirements while neglecting to realize that high pressures are optional with all such tanks as they can be filled to lower pressures if needed.
