DS-50 disappointed

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2. The fast recycle time of the DS125 is awesome, I was amazed at its short recycle time. But I personally would prefer the ability to use off the shelf NiMH batteries. As you know neither strobe uses them. NiMH beat nicads any day, no memory effect and they are more powerful.

I don't get this statement. Do you mean AA's in general, because I've never seen NiMh batteries when traveling? The DS-50 does use AA's, and can accept NiMh rechargeable AA's, so I don't understand "neither strobe uses them." As far as power, that is just wrong. Proprietary NiMh packs pack a punch, you are limited with "off the shelf NiMH". The memory effect from teh NiCads can be eliminated by using the 1.5hr quick charger.

3. I much prefered the fiberoptic coupling system of the YS90 to the sensor of the DS125. It literally gives you more flexibility to mount a strobe to a tiny casing like the Japanese manufacturers make. It is also easy to dissassemble underwater, when I want to just use the casing (minus external strobe). I take pictures of things in tight spaces like lobsters in their crevices that way.

You've got me here, too. With the Ikelite, you undo the thumbscrew at the base of the tray to pop off the housing and shoot in tight spaces? or you can quick release the strobe arm and shoot hand holding the strobe? How is this more difficult than removing the velcro, then removing the camera from the tray?
 
Eli once bubbled...

5. SIze does matter but we each have preferences. Your units are all big heavy macho units. Great for the big macho guy. Personally I think you may scare off women divers with them. An ikelite casing with weighted tray and ikelite strobe is heavy! I like compact units, they are simply easier to travel with. They are easier to stow out of harms way in a crowded dive boat without a dedicated rinse tank for cameras.

These are my personal preferences. Ike, everybody respects you. Please take this as constructive criticism. Best regards, Eli

Yeah Ike! i want a strobe with at least 1000 watt/secs, TTL/20 step manual control, minimum of 500 full power flashes per charge and 150 deg coverage with no hot spots. OH yeah and it has to be less than a lbs and be the size of a cigarette pack too - No Problem, EH???? i'll expect that this year OK? oh and i need a housing for my F5 that is only 2" square too.
 
James connell once bubbled...


Yeah Ike! i want a strobe with at least 1000 watt/secs, TTL/20 step manual control, minimum of 500 full power flashes per charge and 150 deg coverage with no hot spots. OH yeah and it has to be less than a lbs and be the size of a cigarette pack too - No Problem, EH???? i'll expect that this year OK? oh and i need a housing for my F5 that is only 2" square too.


I realize that you are being sarcastic, but I see no reason why strobes that are smaller yet more powerful cant be designed. Indeed Inon has done this with the Z220 according to Jeff Fariss wonderful review on strobes: " The Inon Z220 delivers more power than the Ikelite DS-125 in a much more compact package" And Inon achieves this using lightweight AA batteries, instead of the heavy proprietary NiCad battery back of the DS-125. See:

http://www.digitaldiver.info/images/strobearticle/strobearticlescrn2.pdf
 
Detonate once bubbled...
I still haven't decided on a strobe.

My experience with the DS-50 bummed me out as well. My only chance at Cozumel to take some shots, and I'd have been better off using the internal strobe.

http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35278

Very impressive photos for a first time, even if the exposure wasnt perfect.

Your problems with getting underexposed photos with the DS-50 in TTL mode seems to be a common occurence. But the problem lies in the camera not the strobe! The problem with the TTL mode is that if it works correctly it will mimic what the internal flash does. If the internal flash delivers too little light, then so will the TTL strobe. Thus in TTL mode, the strobe wont do any better than the internal flash, (except for less backscatter).

Some people seem to get good results with TTL strobes. I suspect this is more of a function of which camera they are using rather than which strobe, ie, a more powerful internal flash will yield a wider range of exposures possible in TTL mode.
 
I sent off my DS-50 a couple of days ago for repairs. My TTL appeared to be leaking which probably caused some of my issues. Ike said they would exchange it for the manual one which my Canon S45 needs. I might have to do some cold water diving in canada or pudget sound to see how it works with the new controler. Thanks Ike for the information and exchanging out the controler for the correct one. I still think that the Ikelight web site could be reworked some more to clarify the manual versis TTL controler issues. It looks like I was not alone on the confusion about what controler one should get for there camera. One disappointed customer over powers 10 satisfied ones. There is no since in having that one person being disatisfied because there equipment is wrong.

Thanks

Rich
 
Eli once bubbled...

Indeed Inon has done this with the Z220 according to Jeff Fariss wonderful review on strobes: " The Inon Z220 delivers more power than the Ikelite DS-125 in a much more compact package" And Inon achieves this using lightweight AA batteries, instead of the heavy proprietary NiCad battery back of the DS-125. See:


i don't think it's a "wonderful" reveiw - it really provides very little usefull info.

while the Z220 is a little more powerful than the DS-125 ( except it suffers from light fall off and hot spots ), about .4 stops they are functionaly the same at 1/250th. you notice the lack of a modeling lite? a Very usefull feature and a power hugry one. one thing left out of the artical is how many flashes per charge.
 
I'm sorry you found little useful in the article. I tried to be as comprehensive as possible. Flashes per charge didn't occur to me, because it's a non-issue as far as I am concerned. Anyone who tries to get more than a couple of dives out of either a set of AA's or a rechargeable pack is just asking to get disappointed at some time.

The Z-220 does offer a modeling light. Granted, you need to confirm that the light works with your particular housing/camera combination. The DS-125 does offer a beautifully diffuse pattern. As for hot spots and drop outs in the Z-220, I think you may be seeing wrinkles in my somewhat makeshift target. If you add the .5 EV diffuser that comes with the Z-220, you would have a very even playing field -- same output and I would assume an equally even spread. The DS-125 is decidedly warmer, which can be a big advantage in certain situations.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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