DS-50 disappointed

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Kudos to Ike for trying to explain the issues and solutions. I feel it is important to realize that there are several choices in strobes,accessories and mfgrs. We should try to provide economical solutions to u/w photographers needs.:eek:ut:
 
Dee once bubbled...
Dave...before you spend more money for another part to the puzzle that may or may not work, have you considered a different strobe?
...
The Sea & Sea YS90DX is a manual strobe with 12 easy to understand and use power settings. No extra controllers, no extra sensors, nothing to aim. The fiber optic connection will work on any camera that has an internal flash.

I would consider the S&S YS90 to be an inferior strobe to the Ike DS-125 by a longshot. The DS-125 is more powerful, faster, rechargeable, and has a built in modeling light. Being a Northwest Diver (and frequent night diver) you always need a light, and this frees my hands of a flashlight. It's a great product. Even though I've had two failures with it (battery connection broke, strobe flooded - Ikelite fixed both for Free) I would be unlikely to switch.

I've gotten some GREAT result using this strobe, but the TTL mode just doesn't work well with the Canon S-Series of cameras. Most of the information I have picked up on this topic points me to manual control of strobe intensity. I hang on to the TTL controller and give it another tryout once I switch to an Olympus camera.

Ike - The combined TTL / Manual controller sounds like a great idea. Keep up the great support.

Dave
 
ike once bubbled...
Why does Dee post such a vicious reply? She jumps right in and recommends a new strobe rather than the controller that would solve the problem. Intensity and coverage of a YS90DX is identical to a DS-50; difference is power settings control in the strobe or in a sensor that mounts at the housing and doesn't need a fiber optic connection.

Blanket statement that TTL does not work is ridiculous. It works very well on many cameras, but does not not work on some. Simple answer is a no brainer: Manual Controller will work with every camera. I try to say which camera housings need the manual controller, but this discussion pertained to the smaller Canon cameras for which we have not offered a housing. I apologize for inadequate information.

Best answer is a combined conroller so all possibilites are available while diving. We are working on it. It just occurred to me that my first wife was a Dee. The name may explain this hate ike thing.............

It wasn't a vicious reply, it was personal opinion. And how can I hate you, Ike....I don't know you personally. But since you've taken my opinion of your products personally, I'll explain further if you wish.

As I said, I stated my opinion, formed from my experience. As for TTL, I know very few people who are totally satisfied with the TTL results they get. I know I never was. It's touted and implied that TTL will give you perfect exposures...that seldom happens by all that I'm told. But I agree, I quit depending on TTL years ago and learned to set exposures myself. And I did say it doesn't work as most people are led to believe, not that it didn't work at all.

You're the manufacturer so I'm sure you have some sort of data to prove the YS90 is the same strength of your DS-50, I didn't claim is wasn't. I never mentioned strength of the strobe, I mentioned one that works like it is advertised to do and I depend on it to do. No fiddling with sensors to aim, no extra gadgets to control the strength, 1 easy knob to change the strength settings...everything in one package. And it has worked from the day I took it out of the box. Just a suggestion that there was another option available. Still nothing hateful about you or your product.

This is the opinion I don't post in public but since you insist on this hatred thing, this is my opinion and where my confusion lies....Everyone raves on your excellent customer service. I'm glad because we sure read and hear from friends, who have problems of one sort or another with some of your strobes and their various parts from day one, of the many ways they fail to work as expected or at all. You may fix or replace them in a timely manner but people should be able to expect things to work right the first time. And to depend on them to work on those once or twice a year dive trips. I'm glad you have such a loyal customer base, I just don't understand it.
 
rich52758 once bubbled...
two dives in Grand Cayman yesterday and two in Cozmel today. I took lots of pictures but was disappointed with the flash results. I tried a number of settings. But I have mostly blue pictures with little or no flash. Look for it to be on Ebay next week. I thought this would be a great match for the S45. It was not. I will look for something else before the next vacation.

Rich

Beside TTL/ Canon S series/Ikelite compatibility, one of the thing I learn after using the strobe for awhile is that if the flash fire properly but you still get a lot of blue pictures, two more thing to consider, how far is your object, even a powerful strobe is still only good for a few feet so if you are taking a picture that is 10ft away, the strobe is not going to do much. Also, is the strobe pointing properly at the subject. This is why I think modeling light is a must and the reason I really like the DS125. When I take macro shot with subject 12-18 inches away, if the strobe is not pointing properly, it is not going to help you very much either.
Just a thought.
Ike, any idea on when you might have the TTL/manaul sensor out? I am thinking of getting a manual sensor to replace my TTL sensor but a combo of the two would definitely be more preferable.
 
ike once bubbled...
Early next year at the earliest by the time new mold is complete............

Thanks Ike, I shall wait for this new controller eagerly. In the mean time I hope I will get the new Ike housing for my C5050 in time for my trip next month :)
 
Just back from my cruise. The diving in Cozmel was excelent. Changed some settings on the camera and got a few good shots. I observed some fog in the TTL sensor so I might have a leak in the sealed unit. That might explain the auto firing at will I had at times. I changed the min/max and no one was shooting close by so the fog was my only other thought.

I think one thing that would help on your website would be a chart on which unit to buy for which camera. As I said earlier I called Ikelight twice and B&H and asked which unit to buy for my S45 camera. Both came up with the one I purchased. If this unit does not work with the S45 some how the word needs to get out so you dont have a disappointed customer because they bought something that will give marginal sucess. As I said earlier I am a vacation diver from Oregon. I spent $700 to get a housing and strobe to improve my shots from last year. I get one shot a year to take underwater photographs in the clear warm water. My results this year were worse than what I shot last year with a 35mm reefmaster with strobe. Sure part of it was probably operator err. And if I dove all the time I could probably correct part of that. The digital was a improvement on shot placement. If you think the full manual controler is the answer to the DS-50 problems I have. I will look into it. There is no economy in buying and selling equipment. I like many here just want a set up that takes good pictures at least 50% of the time. I know 100% is unrealistic for underwater shots.

One other improvement I would suggest is the mounting. The camera kept coming loose and wanting to spin. I know this mount was not originally intended for the S45. But maybe an attachment to improve the attachment.

Also I never did get a email reply from Ikelight. A quick note saying you have the wrong controler for your camera, but here are some things to make the best of it whould have been helpful.

Ikelights customer service was a major factor in choosing your product.

Thanks for your time.

Rich
 
Fogging is leaking. Definitely should be replaced. Send directly to us with a note mentioning our conversation and we will exchange for either controller you want.

We have a new mounting screw and a second piece plastic strip on the tray assemblies to prevent rotation. This "anti-rotation" kit is available no charge, so request it when you send the controller. This was done for the Olympus housings but may be applicable for Canon.

I changed the TTL controller description on our web site, recommending the Manual Controller for Canon "A" and "S" series housings.
 
Thanks, I will get it sent in this week for repair. The fog in the TTL might have compounded my problems.

Rich
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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