Drysuit Help

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jw2013

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Location
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I am looking at Drysuits and I wonder if anybody could answer a few questions please?


  • What's the the difference between IDV and ICD Drysuits?
  • What is the best material to have (I've seen Tri-Laminate and Neoprene, and I believe there are others?)?
  • Is Front or Rear entry better?
  • Would anyone recommend one brand over another (value for money)?

Thank you in advance guys!!
 
I am looking at Drysuits and I wonder if anybody could answer a few questions please?


  • What's the the difference between IDV and ICD Drysuits?
  • What is the best material to have (I've seen Tri-Laminate and Neoprene, and I believe there are others?)?
  • Is Front or Rear entry better?
  • Would anyone recommend one brand over another (value for money)?

Thank you in advance guys!!

You're in the UK. If you want a new, good quality drysuit, that's made to measure, get a seaskin. Dry Suits from Seaskin Custom Drysuits home page
I've put about 150 dives on mine in the past 18 months. Still in good nic. Wrist seals will need replacing soon, but that's my own doing. I prefer trilam over neo, and front zip over back zip
 
Northern Diver, Premier Manufacturer of Drysuits & Diving Equipment Northern Diver drysuits are made in the UK. I don't own one but a few people I dive with do, and they like them a lot.

I have a Bare CD4 pro, which is a compressed neoprene suit. I like a neoprene suit over a trilam one because you don't have to wear as much underwear. I have a neoprene neck seal because it is warmer than a latex one, and I don't like how tight a latex neck seal is on your neck. I have latex wrist seals because I find they seal better because I have small wrists.
 
What you want in a dry suit depends on the diving you are doing, and your particular imperatives.

Laminate suits are more useful in variable water temperatures, because they don't insulate, and you can use whatever thickness of undergarment you want with them. They also have no buoyancy change related to the material itself. Bilaminates are more fragile, and trilams more expensive.

Neoprene suits have more intrinsic insulation, but may not be comfortable in warmer water. They have buoyancy changes similar to wetsuits. Depending on the type of neoprene, they may or may not have some stretch that permits greater mobility. They are more streamlined because they fit like a wetsuit. Their biggest problem is that they lose insulating capacity with depth, just as wetsuits do. They TEND to be cheaper than laminate or compressed neo suits.

Compressed or crushed neoprene suits have some intrinsic insulating capacity. They tend to be very tough. They are heavier than laminate suits, and dry more slowly -- this can be an issue if you travel to dive. They do NOT stretch, and therefore must be cut generously enough to permit motion, which means they aren't as streamlined as a full neo suit. They tend to run at the expensive end of the price range.

The last type of suit is the Fusion, which I believe is marketed by ScubaPro in Europe. It's a hybrid, with a laminate bag as an inner layer and a compressive outer layer. Because of the compressive outer layer, the inner bag can be oversized, resulting in good mobility. Because the outer layer is stretchy, it can snag and let go, and protects the inner bag, so the suit is hard to hurt. You either love Fusions or loathe them. I own two. They sit at a very moderate price point (at least in the US) and are quite durable.

As far as back versus front zip, the biggest issue is convenience. Back zip suits are difficult to do without a buddy; front zips can be truly "self-donning". Another consideration is the design of a back zip, and where it places the dump valve. You do not want a dump valve on the front of your suit!
 
Thank you very much for the information - I'll look at this over the coming days and this gives more information to go on.

Regarding the dump valves, where is the ideal place? I understand there is the inlet on the front for fillling the suit - this is OK?
 
You need to be able to get your dump valve to the highest point of the suit in order to facilitate venting. If the valve ends up on the "front" of the suit, then when you're in a proper horizontal face-down trim, it's going to be below the air bubble. Most seem to be on the outside of the arm, which in-trim puts it on top of your arm. Roll to the side sligtly, and the dump becomes the highest point, and venting happens.

Some also seem to like it closer to the wrist, which lets you raise your arm to vent.
 
I understand!! I've seen some with wrist vets. Of course, the air will rise in the suit thus raising the BC dump/inlet hose to release air. This is obvious when you think about it.

Cool, I'm beginning to understand what I am looking for... there is so much to get to grips with!! :)


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One really good way to figure out what works is to go to a popular local diving site and look around and see what you see in use. (Of course, make sure you aren't watching classes!) Ask people why they dive what they dive -- most divers love to talk about their equipment.
 
Have a look at Othree suits - very tough compressed neoprene suits made in the UK. Not inexpensive and not the lightest, but brilliant for North Sea wreck diving. Whites Fusion are owned by Aqualung now and imported by Apeks, which should give you good support as well.

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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