Dry Suits

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redheaddiver

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I know that I could post this over in the equipment board, but I wanted to get some opinions from you guys...I dive in So. Cal. and currently use a body glove excursion 7mm wetsuit. I like the suit, but in the winter, it gets pretty chilly, so I'm looking for some drysuit options. Do any of you currently use one? preference? things to look for? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated! From one girl to another - thanks!
 
Early this season I bought a 3mm crushed neoprene dry suit (Dive Concepts Neo) and I love it! Got it for around $900 - not bad.

I did the drysuit course in a shell and absolutely hated the lack of streamlining, etc etc. The neoprene is far more streamlined, thin enough to be somewhat stretchy, and is far warmer than my old wet get-up. The automatic vent is on the sleeve, which I also like: no fussing around, just raise your arm and vent. One small drawback: I had to learn the proper angle at which to hold my arm to vent my BC and not my suit too! No biggie.

I also invested in the quilted stretch undies - much warmer than the sweats & thermals I had been wearing...
 
Here's a bit of a "primer" on drysuits:

A DRYSUIT OVERVIEW

As their name implies, drysuits provide the most exposure protection by keeping water away from your skin. Their warmth lies in several things: (1) the basic thermal properties of the drysuit material itself; (2) the type & amount of garments you wear under the suit. (3) how much air you put into the suit.

Wearing a drysuit is akin to wearing a big pair of sleepers: you are encased from neck to toe in the suit, with your head & hands exposed. Most suits are back entry, which means that someone has to zip you in & out of the suit. There are a few front entry or "self donning" suits and that, with their long diagonal zipper in the front, allow you to get in & out of the suit yourself.

Drysuit Material
Basically, suits fall into 2 categories: shell or neoprene. Shells can be anything from vulcanized rubber to tri-laminates (3 layers of various materials, one of which is usually nylon). Neoprenes can be the usual 1/4" closed cell or the more exotic crushed or compressed neoprene. Fit is important in either suit: you should have a full range of motion regardless of what the suit is made from.

Shells give some protection against the temperature of the outside water; however, what you wear underneath them is the determining factor in how warm you will be. You can wear anything from a t-shirt & shorts to full "woolly bears", or multiple layers of clothing. Shell materials have minimal buoyancy characteristics, so you require less weight to be neutrally buoyant.

Regular 1/4' neoprene gives you a lot of insulation against the outside water, but it also means more inherent buoyancy. Thus, you must wear more weight to be neutrally buoyant. Again, what you wear depends entirely on how warm you want to be. Like it's wetsuit cousin, 1/4" tends to be somewhat restrictive unless fitted properly. They are usually the most economically priced suits.

Crushed neoprene is a patented product from one mfg, while some others use compressed neoprene. Because all the N2 bubbles in the neoprene have been eliminated, it has very little buoyancy of its own. It is durable, flexible, and gives more insulation than tri-lams. However, since this type of product is only available through a few manufacturers, it is very expensive.

Seals
Drysuits seal at the neck & wrists. Seals are made of two materials: latex or neoprene.

Latex is suppler, conforms well to the contours of the body, is less restrictive and so easier to adapt to & fit. However, it is also more expensive than neoprene, tears easily, is higher maintenance, and has no thermal properties (colder).

Neoprene is less expensive, very forgiving of abuse, requires less maintenance, and has some thermal properties of it's own (warmer). However, it is less supple than latex (more restrictive), and thus may takes a little longer to "get used to".

Zipper
Arguably, this is the most important and most expensive part of the drysuit. If this item "goes" it is literally HUNDREDS of dollars to replace, because of its highly specialized nature. There are particular care requirements to this type of zipper, but they are minimal and easy to incorporate into your usual routine of good equipment maintenance. Like most dive gear, if you take good care of your drysuit, it will take good care of you. :)

Air
If you look at the 1st stage your reg, you'll see a lot of ports. ONE is HP for your gauges, all the rest are LP for your 2nd stage, octo &, BC inflator. There are usually a couple of spare LP ports that go unused. When you have a drysuit, you connect one of these spare LP ports though a separate hose (commonly referred to as a whip) to an inflator valve on the chest of the drysuit. The hose is generally run under the right arm from the 1st stage to the valve. This is how you put air into the suit to keep you warm & for buoyancy control underwater. (You only use your BC for surface buoyancy, once underwater you only use the suit; it is much easier to control 1 buoyancy system than 2.)

Air is exhausted from the suit via a separate valve, called, appropriately enough, the exhaust valve. Current suit design usually places this on the upper left arm (bicep or tricep area). This valve is adjustable in that you will be able to determine how easily & often air is purged from the suit. Although there is too much detail to go into here about how to do this, let it be said that learning to use the suit for buoyancy control is no more complicated than using your BC; in fact, some people claim it's easier. It's just a little different!

Misc.
Generally, drysuit divers tend to need about the same amount of weight as someone diving wet in 1/4" neoprene, EXCEPT if you opt for 1/4" neoprene drysuit... air+ neoprene = more weight. Also, drysuit divers tend to need/use ankle weights, although this is not always the case. When you take a drysuit course, this will be addressed by the Instructor, who will make sure you are weighted properly as well as show you how to weight yourself in various conditions (salt vs. fresh, etc.).

Needless to say, using a drysuit requires specialized instruction from someone qualified to teach it. You didn't go diving without getting certified, did you? Well the same applies to using a dry suit!

That being said, no one who dives dry ever goes back to diving wet, except in tropical waters. Its just makes diving temperate waters so much better. So says someone from The Great White North, eh? (aka Canada.)!


So, basically you need to do a little research and build your own "shopping list" of the features you want from your drysuit. Then do some price comparisons.

BTW, I used to dive a full 1/4" neoprene drysuit when we lived in Canada. For the past 3 years I've used a custom DUI trilam, which I definitely prefer.

Bonne chance,

~SubMariner~
 
Hi!
(post #1)
I'd just like to say that I love dry suit... but I'm in BC, so it's a little more necessary in winter than so. cal. (though i've talked to people who have done wetsuits in the winter (brrr).)
Dive in whatever makes you most comfortable.
 
I have an Abyss 4mil compressed neoprene suit. It's a bit bulky but much warmer and tougher than the shell suits.

I was planning on taking an icediving course last winter but it was cancelled. The ice was too thick for the chainsaw to get through!! :wacko: Definitely need a drysuit here in the winter!

I would suggest the latex seals. I started with the neoprene ones but ended up switching as they leaked on me. My tendons stuck out too much for the neoprene to be able to conform properly. Just something to be aware of when you're shopping.

Diverlady
 
I bought a Diving Concepts as part of a package when I first bought my own gear. It's a custom built Trilam. I opted for the dry glove system (the blue kind with the rings) as well as the attached dry hood. I also got the stretchy quilted thinsulate undies. I've since added an Argon system for winter - but found that's WAY too warm when the water gets over 50F! After using the sucky rental suits, the custom fit DC with boots that actually fit is awesome! As others have mentioned, there is a learning curve associated - especially with the latex hood - but definitely worth it for me. I also don't use ankle weights. As I learned to use the suit and got my trim and overall weighting worked out, I no longer needed them. I don't generally use the suit for buoyancy control. I was initially taught to do that, but when I started to do a lot more diving, I figured out that it works out a lot better for me to just keep most of the squeeze off and use the BCD/wing for it's intended purpose.
 
Snowbear once bubbled...
<snip> I don't generally use the suit for buoyancy control. I was initially taught to do that, but when I started to do a lot more diving, I figured out that it works out a lot better for me to just keep most of the squeeze off and use the BCD/wing for it's intended purpose.

Wow, I didn't think any agency taught using the suit itself for buoyancy control. That's a good way to end up on the surface too quickly looking like the Michelin man, right? :)

Yeah, I do the same (keep the squeeze off only).

Wow, Alaska, huh? I'd like to hear about the diving up there!!!
 
Living in the UK you can't really dive without a drysuit. Main advantage, apart from being warmer in the water, is that you're warm (and dry) inbetween dives. Most important thing to look for, I think, is the fit. You should be able to do a squat and raise your arms above your head when you're wearing it. I bought my first drysuit when I first stated diving and didn't really know how they were supposed to fit. Consequently I had problems climbing onto the boat (we do a lot of RIB diving) and putting my fins on. I've recently purchased an Oceanic Aerdura - the suit used by the British Navy. It's really strong, is made partly of Titanium, consists of 14 layers (to make it more durable and keep you warmer) and is really comfy. The other important consideration if you're buying a membrane drysuit is the undersuit. I've got a Weezle Extreme - not sure if you can get them over there - but I reckon they're the best you can buy. It's REALLY warm and not too stiff, so you don't compromise on being able to move around freely.
 
I couldn't dive without my drysuit!

My boyfriend and I recently plunked down the money for a set of DUI drysuits (our LDS owner sees us coming and dollar signs flash before his eyes!:D )
I got the TLS 350, which is a tri-lam, and he got the FLX 50/50 which is a poly fabric on the top, and crushed neoprene from the waist down. Both suits have front zippers, and latex seals. I opted for the drygloves, but he didn't want them.

I love my suit - it's really lightweight and comfortable. My b/f loves his too, but it seems really heavy to me - the crushed neoprene is rather dense.

We got the rock boots, and the Polartech fleeces as well, so we are are nice & warm year round!
 
Wow, I didn't think any agency taught using the suit itself for buoyancy control. That's a good way to end up on the surface too quickly looking like the Michelin man, right?

WRONG.

I have been drysuit diving for 10 years. Not only was I taught to use the suit for buoyancy control u/w, but it is also the method that I teach as a PADI Instructor.

There are pros & cons to either method of buoyancy control. In the end it all comes down to:

1) Training.
2) Experience/Practice.
3) Personal Preference.

There is no "one right way".

seakdivers

Isn't the DUI 350TLS with rock boots a blast? I love the way the Rock boots lace up so that they act like gaitors & eliminate the need for ankle wts. No nasty floaty feet or air shift! :thumb:

BTW, ladies, you don't necessarily need to invest in expensive udergarments. In cold water I start my layering with those poly-lycra blend skiers use under their ski outfits (wicks away moisture) and biking tights (same type of material) then add on heavy sweats. And of course in warmer water, I just wear a long sleeved T shirt (or that poly-lycra shirt) and the biking tights.

Of course, no drysuit ensemble would be complete without the obligatory pair of thick socks! ;)

IOW, I find that with layering I can more easily adapt to the various water temps, rather than having to invest in expensive woolies (etc).

JMHO,

~SubMariner~
 

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