Dry Suit - Questions on going Dry

[RonFrank]

I just ran into a deal on a Bare NextGen suit with everything, T100 polartech liner, Rockboots, hood, and gloves, Used, but only for a couple dives. So I'm going dry, and have some quesitons.

1. Weight. I dive 10lbs fresh in a 3mm, and 18lbs fresh in a 7mm fullsuit. How much weight more weight is generally needed goinging between a 7mm, and dry?

2. I wear a size 9 shoe. The size 11 footpockets are a reasonable fit. However the size 11 boots leave a couple inches in the toes, and I could definately use a smaller size. So if I sell the Rockboots, and replace them with a smaller size, are the footpockets going to bunch up too much? Anyone done something similar?

3. The shoulder dump has some kind of adjustment on it. It turns, but it's difficult to tell what (if anything) that does. Maybe this will become more apparent when I dive it.

4. Cleaning and maintenance. I assume you don't want to dump the suit in the rinse tub with everything else. When you want to clean the suit, what is best to use? Fresh water? Soap and rinse? Some special product? Armor All for that shiny look?

5. Seal maintenance. Anything that needs to be done here? Lube it up with something?

I will be doing a Dry suit speciality class (a freeby) but plan on putting several dives in this suit before that happens (winter sometime, have not even scheduled it).

Thanks for any advice,

 

[Goose75]

The adjustment is to auto vent air out when it reaches a certain pressure. Talcum powder will help you get latex seals over your limbs. Reccomended suit care, storage and maintainence can be found from the manufacturer. Use zipper wax on the zipper at the least. It is the most expense single part of the suit.

I advise to buy the course book and read it. I'd also take the class first. As long as the instructor is good, you won't regret it. It will take more than a couple dives to get the hang of it. The 4th fdive of the class it all started to make sense to me.

Whatever you decide to do, make sure that your neck seal isn't too tight.

 

[Dive1Dennis]

Earlier this year I went from 7mm wet with a 5mm hooded vest to a shell dry suit with Weezles undersuit.
I have reduced my weight about as much as I can with the dry suit and I am at 5 lb. more than I was wearing wet. I think the Bare suit you refer to is a neoprene suit so you might have different (more?) weight requirements.
I needed more when I test dove a neoprene suit, but the suit I was wearing was too big for me and I believe that this was part of the reason I needed more lead with it.

I agree with Dearman, take the course, get some instruction before you dive the new suit. Details like those about the dump valve and others are critical to safely diving dry.

 

[Dive-aholic]

I just ran into a deal on a Bare NextGen suit with everything, T100 polartech liner, Rockboots, hood, and gloves, Used, but only for a couple dives. So I'm going dry, and have some quesitons.

1. Weight. I dive 10lbs fresh in a 3mm, and 18lbs fresh in a 7mm fullsuit. How much weight more weight is generally needed goinging between a 7mm, and dry?

It depends. Sounds like you might be able to drop a little weight though.

2. I wear a size 9 shoe. The size 11 footpockets are a reasonable fit. However the size 11 boots leave a couple inches in the toes, and I could definately use a smaller size. So if I sell the Rockboots, and replace them with a smaller size, are the footpockets going to bunch up too much? Anyone done something similar?

Not sure, but I'd try out sizes 9 and 10 before laying out cash. Another option is to change out the socks on the DS, but that can get expensive.

3. The shoulder dump has some kind of adjustment on it. It turns, but it's difficult to tell what (if anything) that does. Maybe this will become more apparent when I dive it.

As already stated, it's the autovent. It lets air out of the suit as you ascend. The amount that gets out depends on where you have it set. I recommend starting with it closed and adjusting it open the more you dive the DS. You'll find the setting that works for you.

4. Cleaning and maintenance. I assume you don't want to dump the suit in the rinse tub with everything else. When you want to clean the suit, what is best to use? Fresh water? Soap and rinse? Some special product? Armor All for that shiny look?

Rinse it off with fresh water. Every now and then (depends on your diving) rinse out the inside as well, then hang it upside down to dry. Check out the DIY section for DS hanger ideas. Forget the shiny look. I have a crushed neoprene DS, so I'm not sure about the specifics of trilam care, but I wouldn't put Armor All on it. Besides, you don't want to look like a noob in the suit! Get as much wreck rust on it as you can!!!

Make sure you wax the zipper after every dive day, maybe even in between dives if you're doing a lot of dives in one day. Store DS with zipper open. As already stated, this is the most expensive part of the DS, take care of it.

5. Seal maintenance. Anything that needs to be done here? Lube it up with something?

Throw some DS talc on the latex seals to help them last longer. Make sure you buy the pure talc. Walmart talc has additives and will break down the latex. To don and doff the DS, put some KY inside the seals. They slip right on and off. Again, make sure there are no additives to the gel. Also, avoid the warming stuff

I will be doing a Dry suit speciality class (a freeby) but plan on putting several dives in this suit before that happens (winter sometime, have not even scheduled it).

Thanks for any advice,

Hope all of this helps. I also recommend getting the book and reading through it before you dive the DS. The class could be of help, but might not even be necessary. But if it's free, why not.

 

[Diver0001]

Forgive repeats, haven't read the other responses yet.

1. Weight. I dive 10lbs fresh in a 3mm, and 18lbs fresh in a 7mm fullsuit. How much weight more weight is generally needed goinging between a 7mm, and dry?

The nexgen is a shell suit so that's going to depend entirely on the thickness of your undergarments.

2. I wear a size 9 shoe. The size 11 footpockets are a reasonable fit. However the size 11 boots leave a couple inches in the toes, and I could definately use a smaller size. So if I sell the Rockboots, and replace them with a smaller size, are the footpockets going to bunch up too much? Anyone done something similar?

Get boots that fit. These boots can and will pop off your heel if they're too big and leave you unable to fin.

3. The shoulder dump has some kind of adjustment on it. It turns, but it's difficult to tell what (if anything) that does. Maybe this will become more apparent when I dive it.

Just like a jar lid. clockwise is closed and counter-clockwise is open. When it's open it will vent automatically during ascent and you can dump air out of the suit by bringing the valve to the highest point. Generally speaking it's best to start with diving dry by keeping the valve open all the time.

4. Cleaning and maintenance. I assume you don't want to dump the suit in the rinse tub with everything else. When you want to clean the suit, what is best to use? Fresh water? Soap and rinse? Some special product? Armor All for that shiny look?

Hang it upside down by the feet (you can buy or make a special hanger for this) and hose it down. pay special attention to make sure that the zipper is clean. The zipper is the most important thing to take care of.

5. Seal maintenance. Anything that needs to be done here? Lube it up with something?

you can buy stuff at the LDS for taking care of the zipper. Make sure you do this. Talc powder to keep latex bits looking good and make sure the suit hangs out of the sun but somewhere dry. Also don't use silicone stuff on the seals. For the seals it ok but it makes replacing seals more difficult because the glue won't stick.

You'll get a lot of this information again in the drysuit class.

R..

 

[jiveturkey]

I recommend starting with it closed and adjusting it open the more you dive the DS.

I'd recommend the opposite. Keep it open all the way until you get more experienced. This way, you won't have to manually vent air when you ascend. The valves will do it automatically.


I have a ned-gen and it's definitely a shell suit. I have the t-200 and I dive in salt water so the difference is huge. That underwear is really going to make a big difference in the amout of lead you wear.

 

[Goose75]

I would add to practice alot of depth changes in shallows to get used to the air inside the suit expanding. You should also focus on correcting a run away ascent effectively. I'd also recommend keeping the autovent all the way open at first, annoying as it is. I wouldn't venture too deep for an emergency ascent until after you are effective at these things.

If you don't take the class first, read the book and if at all possible have a dry diver go with you. In a few seconds, another dry diver will notice the things you are doing wrong such as not getting the dump valve to the highest point while venting or letting your feet get too high.

If all else fails and you are on a one way ticket up, don't forget that you can break the seal (from your skin-not rip it apart) and fill your suit with water. I'd rather be wet than bent.

 

[Doc Intrepid]

If you dive it in the ocean, rinse it well after each use. The inside will generally have some moisture in it, either something will leak slightly or else you'll sweat. After each weekend I'd recommend you put it in the tub and rinse it well on the inside as well. After dumping all the water from it, (and pulling all the crap from your pockets,) stick it on a dryer and turn on the blower. Let it dry overnight. In the morning it will be completely dry, and you can lube the zipper and powder the seals before rolling it up and packing it for the next weekend. Here's how to make the dryer:
http://www.atlanticunderwater.com/equipment/dryer.shtml

That's an older article - we've added PVC attachments to dry the hood and gloves, your (open circuit) SMB, rock boots, etc. You can customize it anyway you want, the idea is to rinse the inside and then dry it quickly to prevent mold, smells, etc. from growing in your suit!

Oh, and like most of the other guys have already told you - the idea is to dive it with as little gas as you possibly need in it. More gas = more weight required, plus the gas moves around inside the suit dicking up your bouyancy and trim. So...dive with the valve wide open. It makes your diving much easier to manage, esp. your ascents.

Best,

Doc

 

[RonFrank]

I would add to practice alot of depth changes in shallows to get used to the air inside the suit expanding. You should also focus on correcting a run away ascent effectively. I'd also recommend keeping the autovent all the way open at first, annoying as it is. I wouldn't venture too deep for an emergency ascent until after you are effective at these things.

If all else fails and you are on a one way ticket up, don't forget that you can break the seal (from your skin-not rip it apart) and fill your suit with water. I'd rather be wet than bent.

Good advice. My first dive will be in a local mudhole, and I don't plan on going deeper than 30', in fact the area I will decend in bottoms at 30'. That should be safe enough.

We will then likely follow the bottom back to the shore, so it's a multi level dive and if I hit 20', and start to ascend, it will be much like an ESA that the Instructors do some times two dozen times in a day with OW students.

 

[rjchandler]

.

We will then likely follow the bottom back to the shore, so it's a multi level dive and if I hit 20', and start to ascend, it will be much like an ESA that the Instructors do some times two dozen times in a day with OW students.

Well .. no. If the vent is shut down it could be an uncontrolled ESA. Unless you are like the guy I met who did an entire DUI Demo dive without adding air to his suit because no one told him he was supposed to.