FIXXERVI6 once bubbled...
[BIt would be texas lake diving, and WV lake diving, and gulf diving, the plan would be EANx and 100 to 130 feet, I just said 104's for the heck of it, I'm leaning tword 95's as well.
As far as the ditchable weight, I'd be in trouble right now with my single, if I ditch my lbs and my wing blows, I'm still going to sink, granted, I COULD swim my 80 up if I had a failure...
One possibility would be a dual bladder BCD that I was looking at. [/B]
104s was a bad guess, then, as would be twin Fabers. These tanks are very negatively non-buoyant.
First question should be: Why are you buying tanks?
Second question should be: What is the best sized tank?
Third question should be: What kind of tank?
If you want to become certified as a Florida cave diver (I do not know if Texas has divable caves), and you want to start accumulating cave gear, fine. That should probably start with a drysuit. A trilam shell, or compressed neoprene, or semi dry will all be better choices than a wetsuit. Some groups will insist on one kind of suit over the others.
Once you are diving dry, then any steel tank or twins is probably appropriate, as the second acquisition. Unless you drive your car to Florida, you will probably rent tanks in Florida, if you go there. No need to buy any tanks at all.
If you decide to stay local in Texas, then take a look at what the locals dive with. They probably do not dive with twin steel tanks and a wetsuit.
If you want to keep wearing your wetsuit, then you are talking about NDL diving.
102 ffw = 4 atas
4 atas x 0.75 cu ft / min x 20 mins on EAN32 = one single steel 72 is about as big a tank as you need.
LP80 or HP80 works just fine too. But there is definitely no need for twin steel anything, whether 72s, 80s, 100s, or 104s.
I personally do not see a problem with a single steel tank together with a wetsuit. But twin steelies and a wetsuit is a totally different matter.