FIXXERVI6 once bubbled...
Do I NEED doubles? no, I can sling a pony, use a LP95 and do everything I need to do with it.
I would prefer doubles.
After reading these posts, thank you all, its been helpfull, I won't be buying 104's, or probably even 95's. I talked to a local that will let me jump in the pool with 98's but suggested a double bladder wing.
so now I've changed my mind down to double standard 80's and a 45# wing.
If we start with the assumption that doubles is the best way to go for scuba, which is indeed a feasible assumption, and we have discussed this before, feasible at least for those with backs strong enough to handle these out of the water, then you only need to decide what configuration is needed for the conditions of the dive.
For cave diving or shipwreck penitrations, the tank size will be a function of your RMV times the pressure at your MOD times your planned dive time, plus a 50% reserve for the rule of thirds computed with the greater of your or your buddy's RMV.
For non-penitrations, the size will be a function of your RMV times the pressure at your MOD times your planned dive time plus a reserve large enough to get you or your buddy directly back to the surface with safety stop(s).
Some divers may calculate this differently. Some divers always use the rule of thirds for all diving.
For a dive to 100 ft, for example, which is also the deepest that I recommend that non-tech divers go, the calculations are as follows:
Planned depth = 100 fsw = 100/33 + 1 ATAs = 4.0 ATAs
Planned mix = PO2/P = 1.4/4.0 = 0.35 = EAN35
EAD of EAN35 @ 100 fsw = (1 - 0.35)/0.79 x (100 + 33) - 33
= EAD of 76 fsw
Planned max time = 120 - 76 = 44 mins rounded down to 40 mins
CNS O2 limit of PO2 1.4 = 150 mins (per NOAA) therefore 40 mins at 100 fsw on EAN35 is safe.
My RMV for a working/swimming dive is 0.75
Vol of gas = 0.75 x 40 x 4 = 120 cu ft
Assuming my buddy also has a 0.75 RMV then with the rule of thirds, my total gas would be 120 x 150% = 180 cu ft
Tank size: TWIN 90s
Faber steel 95s are -1.2 lbs empty each (per the chart). Doubled, with a manifold and 2 regs, this comes to about -5 lbs. Adding 60 cu ft of reserve air weighing 5 lbs comes to -10 lbs.
OMS steel 98s are -0- lbs empty each (per the chart). Doubled, with a manifold and 2 regs, this comes to about -3 lbs. Adding 60 cu ft of reserve air weighing 5 lbs comes to -8 lbs.
Luxifer alum 78s are +2 lbs empty each (per the chart). Doubled, with a manifold and 2 regs, this comes to about +1 lbs. Adding 60 cu ft of reserve air weighing 5 lbs comes to -4 lbs.
An aluminum backplate is about -3 lbs and a steel backplate is about -6 lbs.
My natural ocean buoyancy without a suit is about +6 lbs.
With my shell drysuit, my ocean buoyancy is about +20 lbs.
I would presume that a semi-dry would run about the same +20 lbs, however I do not know. It could be more.
Now the task at hand is to configure all the above, so that I am as close to neutral at all times, with some ditchable weight to compensate for the weight of the gas when the tanks are full.
IF THE WATER IS WARM, defined as 82^F or more, then I will go with dive skins (natural buoyancy +6), aluminum tanks (-4), an aluminum backplate (-3), and 6 lbs ditchable weight (to make up for the reserve gas, if used). My fins should easily be able to kick against -1 lb negative buoyancy if I ditch my weights, even without a functioning B/C. Even so, I have my buddy's B/C to rely on to help me, if mine fails. NO DOUBLE WINGS.
IF THE WATER IS COLD, defined as less than 82^F, then I will go with my shell suit (natural buoyancy +20), Faber steel 95s tanks (-10), a steel backplate (-6), and 10 lbs ditchable weight (to make up for the reserve gas, if used, and the buoyancy of the suit & thermals). If I ditch my weights, even without a functioning B/C, I should be positive. Even so, I have my buddy's B/C to rely on to help me, if mine fails. NO DOUBLE WINGS.
NO HIGH CAPACITY B/C EITHER, since I am neither a tech instructor nor carrying a heavy tool bag for a salvage op.
Thats how I would plan it.