DIY Video Housing a success...

[Padipro]

Bobby,

My concern with the epoxy was as you said the repeted compression cycles on a rigid cement. I prefered a somewhat flexible joint, one that would allow the lens to compress against the o-ring creating an even better seal with increased pressure. Yes, 5200 remains flexible after it has cured.

The thermo forming of the plastic was a PITA but it allowed me to use a 3 inch pipe and keep the air space inside the housing to a minimum. The handle on the bottom is hollow and filled with lead shot held in place with super glue. I'd guess it weights just over a pound. I had to add some trim weights to the front right corner of the housing to get it to float level so total weighting is around 1 and 1/2 pounds. The housing is slightly positive which will allow me to clip it off to a sholder D ring through it under my arm and forget about it during deco stops.

It was made from pipe that was stamped with "Not for pressure applications" but that is for internal pressure. External pressure, while still an issue should be less of a concern as the housing will be under compression from the outside rather then tension form the inside. The next test dive is going to be on a wreck called Hydro Atlantic which sits in 175 FSW. If it doesn't leak there it should be good for just about anything I'm goiong to be doing.

Again there seems to be a problem with uploading pictures so I'll try and post them later.

 

[geberhard]

Killer thread! definitely keeping an eye on thsi one, as I am getting started on my plans to build a housing. am hoping for very small internal volume.

Are you guys having any issues with condensation on lens due to temperature shift at depth?

 

[Padipro]

Are you guys having any issues with condensation on lens due to temperature shift at depth?

Never had a single problem with condensation.

 

[beezwax]

Are you guys having any issues with condensation on lens due to temperature shift at depth?

For whatever it's worth, here's my solution: I don't have an UW camcorder, but I do shoot a lot with an UW digital camera. Here in Minnesota we've had several weeks of temps in the 80s and 90s, but once you get past 50 feet in any of the mine pits around here the temps are still in the upper 30s and low 40s. So in other words my camera goes through a temp change of 50+ degrees in the space of a couple minutes, and I was having horrible problems with the lens fogging, even though I would load the housing in a dry place and always had a dessicant, etc. The only thing I've found that works is to pre-cool the camera slowly so it doesn't go through this shock cooling in the water. A couple hours before I expect to hit the water I load the camera into the housing, then put it into a large ziplock freezer bag, fill the bag with water and seal it, then put the whole works into a cooler with several ice packs. Then I bring the cooler to the dive site, and the last thing I do before beginning the descent is to take the camera out of the cooler, dump the water and bag and go before the thing starts to warm up too much. It works. It's a pain, but it makes the difference between pictures or no pictures. This would also work for a video camera, you don't have to have a ziplock bag, you can just fill the whole cooler with water and ice (I've tried it both ways). Of course continue to use a dessicant anyway, and it also helps to put mask defog on the inside of your lens port. Instead of rinsing it with water like you would your mask, I actually apply the defog and then wipe it clean with a cotton towel to avoid water spots drying on the port. Good luck!

 

[phunk]

Well I'm not sure the best way to go about it, but wouldn't filling the case with dry air from your tank eliminate the possiblilty of condensation?

 

[Padipro]

A desicant (sp) pack would work nicely. You can sometimes find them in packaging to absorb moisture. Once completely pink placing them in a microwave for a few seconds will return them to blue working condition.

 

[phunk]

If you have no external controls on the camera housing, and are waiting until the last minute to turn on the camera and seal the housing, would a desicant be fast enough to get the moisture out before you got to depth?

 

[Padipro]

Now that I couldn't tell you. I've never had to use desicant in my housings as I've never had trouble with fogging. It's worth a try to see it it works.

The other alternative is to install a control to turn the camera on and off so you can close and seal the housing before leaving the house. The controls aren't very expensive, $25 US or so from Ikelite or you can make your own from an aluminum or stainless rod, a plumbing compression fitting, a small o-ring and a washer. They work just as well as the Ikelite controls but only cost you a few $ to make from parts that are available from any local hardware store.

I can post a couple of pictures of an old home made control I built years ago if anyone is interested in seeing how it's done.

Finally. Here are a couple of pictures of the new housing for those that haven't already seen them.

 

[Padipro]

It's called the Moisture Mucher form WorldWater Sports. The discription says it for removing moisture from camera housings. Should work.

 

[MATTKINZ]

Hi Scott, please post the pics and info on the homemade glands. I didn't know how to do it and haven't found any info on line yet.

Regarding moisture, putting cam in housing with window open in a refrigerator for an hour may evacuate some of the moisture, then in the freezer should really dry the air out. Sealing the housing from the freezer may then have kept out moisture. Just an idea. MK