DIY Video Housing a success...

[MATTKINZ]

I think paint might peel at site of o-rings. Youmay want to mask and paint around. You can always paint later anyway. Good luck in the quarry.

I met the captain of the tug that is towing and sinking the Oriskany aircraft carrier as a reef here in Pensacola.

I was unable to really take off the time to go and see the sinking, however, I was able to get someone on the Tug to take my digital camera and video camera along on board so they can get me video and pics from closer than other boats of the process.

If able, I will post some video , pics on Scubaboard later. MK

 

[willydiver]

BobbyM,

Have you done a buoyancy test with the housing/camera, yet? You may be suprised at how heavy the final combination has to be in order to overcome the volume of water displaced. Lead is going to have to be added. Make sure the "glued" handle stubbs are going to be sufficient for handling the housing above water. Even if you don't plan on using them for above-water transport, somebody inevitably will grab it that way.

Will

 

[Bobby_M]

Will,
I haven't checked bouyancy just yet. Keep in mind, this is only 4" PVC unlike your 6". I think I have a lot less air to compensate for. I do have room under the camera tray for some lead in addition to the lead shot I plan on filling the handles with (actually, I might make a nice goopy mixture of lead shot and epoxy to jam into my PVC handles to keep water from being trapped in there. I want to weight the handles first and then see how it trims out. I can then adjust my under-tray ballast front or rear so it stays neutral and level.

So far, the handle to housing glue joint seems quite sturdy, but I think it wouldn't withstand a fall directly onto a handle. I'm also adding a carry/grab handle to the very top made of a piece of 1" webbing, and hopefully someone handing me the rig will know to use it. I started off trying to make more flanged connection (more glue surface or screws) to the housing by using parts of a threaded Tee that I opened up by softening in the oven. The problem was that the female threaded piece got all distorted. I even had a threaded nipple in it during the melt, but I just wasn't happy with it.

This thing is beginning to look quite sexy and it will be such a let down if it leaks. I'm tempted not to do any more work on it until I can prove its depth worthiness, but it's an enjoyable project.

Bobby

 

[ShoalDiverSA]

Bobby,

How about posting some updated pics?

Cheers,

Andrew

 

[Bobby_M]

Andrew,
I'm working on it. The wife confiscated the digicam on a short trip to my in-law's. Not much to see yet anyway because i partially broke the housing down for painting. I should have some final pics up by the end of the week.

I tested the housing in 20" of water and found one pinhole leak in a spot I had already suspected. The latch screws go into spots where there is double thickness of PVC, but I had not paid close enough attention to the mating surface between these layers. I think water was making it in through the screw hole in the ring, then squeezing just passed the O-ring since it is not designed to seal against the pipe itself.

I plan to put epoxy in the gap between PVC layers and also throw a dab in each screw hole prior to final assemply.

Bobby

 

[Bobby_M]

Ok guys, as promised here are some updated pics:

I am embarrased with the results of the paint job because it's all smudged. That's what you get when you rush your reassembly before the paint is completely dry. Oh well.

I did use exopy in the joints that I suspected of leaking and I also dabbed some on the screw threads during reassembly. The good news is there are no leaks at 18" deep. Of course, a styrofoam coffee cup is probably water tight at that depth so I'm not celebrating yet.

I filled the handles with lead shot. Each handle took maybe .3 pounds for just over a half pound total. I checked buoyancy with handles on, camera in, and it's just a hair negative. It is also really well balanced, not front or rear heavy.

The handles are awesome, I couldn't be happier with the feel or placement. The bonus to this design is that they're removable and adjustable.

The 1/2" female thread on the bottom of the housing is for attaching my HID light cannon later. I'll post the depth results Friday 5/26.

Bobby

 

[MichiganDiver]

(duplicate post deleted--see next post)

 

[MichiganDiver]

I was thinking of using a section of a ring of 4" PVC pipe to double up the thickness, then installing a 1/4-20 threaded insert in the bottom of the housing in the thickened wall. This screw size is standard for camera mounts (e.g. tripod mount, etc.). I haven't tried to find the insert yet, but I think it would have to be stainless steel.

I have played around a little bit with a test piece of 4" pipe, trying to shape it on a wooden form like Matt. I originally thought that I could stretch the pipe, but that proved to be difficult. I think the most I can do is reshape it while maintaining approximately the same perimeter. I also found that the PVC cement joint between my ring and the main housing body came free after several heat-stretch cycles. This is just a test piece, so I'm not worried. However, when I get to the real thing I'll let you know how it works.

I am now planning to reverse the jaws on my wood clamp to convert it to a spreader. If I insert the spreader between shaped two-by-four, then I should be able to reshape (and perhaps stretch a bit) the PVC pipe to accommodate my camera.

More later.

 

[Bobby_M]

Michigan,
I have a couple thoughts. First, you can get SS threaded inserts from Mcmaster in any size/depth. They come knurled as well as variations on the T-nut, both spiked and smooth. Even if you go that route, I'd suggest trying 1/2" schedule 80 PVC like I did for the handles. The grips are bike grips from Walmart ($5).

If you're going to shape the PVC on a mould, I would suggest glueing afterwards, not before. Another way to stretch might be to split yoru mould in two and use tapered shims to spread them apart. You can keep throwing it back in the oven in between because I notice it cools really quick. If you have to really go nuts on 4" to get your cam in, you might just go to 6" easier. I think raiding a construction site for a piece is the easiest way to get it.

Bobby

 

[MATTKINZ]

Bobby, Great housing. very impressive.

Michigan. I used a stainless nut and forced it into a slightly smaller hole in a piece of heated PVC . see detail pic.

Also I am enclosing some of my pics of the Oriskany sinking. more posted under oriskany thread here in scubaboard. MK