FredT
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A hot spike (a nail 5/16" dia x about 10" long) melts and reinforces the holes all at the same time.
DIY Tank Holders - Cheap, Easy, Quick
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A hot spike (a nail 5/16" dia x about 10" long) melts and reinforces the holes all at the same time.
bwerb
Hoser/English Translator, eh
This sounded way too complicated 
...here's what I did:
Pool Noodle $.97 CDN
Piece of old rope - free.
One really pointy pen...poked hole through pool noodle (cut into thirds. Pushed rope through then into next noodle etc...strung all three sections together with two pieces of rope.
Only knots in rope are at one end...big figure 8 knot...the noodles are free to slide back and forth along the rope "track". Left the other end of the rope long.
So...put three tanks onto the noodles in the trunk...the fourth tank only has noodle on one side...the rope wraps over top of this tank and back under it's neighbor to hold it in place. It doesn't move in my trunk at all.
Total construction time 10 minutes...total spend...97 cents.
...here's what I did:Pool Noodle $.97 CDN
Piece of old rope - free.
One really pointy pen...poked hole through pool noodle (cut into thirds. Pushed rope through then into next noodle etc...strung all three sections together with two pieces of rope.
Only knots in rope are at one end...big figure 8 knot...the noodles are free to slide back and forth along the rope "track". Left the other end of the rope long.
So...put three tanks onto the noodles in the trunk...the fourth tank only has noodle on one side...the rope wraps over top of this tank and back under it's neighbor to hold it in place. It doesn't move in my trunk at all.
Total construction time 10 minutes...total spend...97 cents.
blacknet
Contributor
Hello,
What I use is 1" pvc pipe and some rope. Not figured cost but it was very cheap.
Ed
What I use is 1" pvc pipe and some rope. Not figured cost but it was very cheap.
Ed
I added washers to prevent the knots in the rope from pulling thru the noodle.
This is it's 3rd summer.
Mike D
This is it's 3rd summer.
Mike D
Narced-on-Land
Registered
bigz, that's a great mod to this idea!
Not only will the tanks not go from side to side, but no fore/aft movement either!! I have a van and that will stop motion like a tool box liner, great!!
Not only will the tanks not go from side to side, but no fore/aft movement either!! I have a van and that will stop motion like a tool box liner, great!!
DavidG
Contributor
I have a lathe and drill press so I have the capability to build the can and head but I'd like to make a smaller can that would contain enough power to last for three dives when using a 10watt HID bulb. Given those requirements, I thought going to NiMH batteries would be the ticket.
I've got a UW light cannon and thought of gutting the ballast and bulb and creating a light head using it, but...
I've got a pack of 20, 2000 mAh AA's in a 2 x 3-4-3 configuration that generates about 13.5 volts with a total of (therotecally) 4 Ah's. My amp meter only goes so far and the thing with NiMH's is that their design permits high amperage discharge. So, when I hook them up to the ballast, they blow the 2amp fuse EVERY time. The ballast creates the initial arc with 6000 volts and then once lit drops to 12 volts in order to sustain the arc. At just under 10 volts the light dies. So the inital draw seems to be what is killing the fuse.
What am I doing wrong? If I use a higher rated fuse, won't I kill the bulb? Should I try a slow burn fuse? The manufacturer says the ballast and bulb can operate using NiMH's.
Have any of you been able to successfully get something like this to work. Obviously, I KNOW NEXT TO NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRICITY OR BALLAST ELECTRONICS.
I've got a UW light cannon and thought of gutting the ballast and bulb and creating a light head using it, but...
I've got a pack of 20, 2000 mAh AA's in a 2 x 3-4-3 configuration that generates about 13.5 volts with a total of (therotecally) 4 Ah's. My amp meter only goes so far and the thing with NiMH's is that their design permits high amperage discharge. So, when I hook them up to the ballast, they blow the 2amp fuse EVERY time. The ballast creates the initial arc with 6000 volts and then once lit drops to 12 volts in order to sustain the arc. At just under 10 volts the light dies. So the inital draw seems to be what is killing the fuse.
What am I doing wrong? If I use a higher rated fuse, won't I kill the bulb? Should I try a slow burn fuse? The manufacturer says the ballast and bulb can operate using NiMH's.
Have any of you been able to successfully get something like this to work. Obviously, I KNOW NEXT TO NOTHING ABOUT ELECTRICITY OR BALLAST ELECTRONICS.
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