DIY drysuit zipper replacement (front entry shell suit) Pics (~1.3mb total).

[Randy43068]

Coldsmoke used McNett's Seal Cement with good results (see his post).

S-18 neoprene contact cement works well also. It's used by a major drysuit repair facility in my area.

One of S-18's industrial applications is in boat manufacture to install marine carpeting.

It holds very well.

S-18 is about $11 per quart.

Dave C

Thanks for the information. I didn't read the post as thoroughly as I should have.

 

[coldsmoke]

Was it a one-time deal?



Dave C

Yeah, I'm afraid so. I lucked out, but after seeing how do-able it is I would do it again even if I had to buy a new retail zipper. Afterall, aside from saving at least $100 for the install, I save shipping both ways, and I don't have to be without my suit for 3+ weeks.

Hunter

 

[D_B]

Thought I would update this thread with a couple of places to get drysuit zippers

Found this site in the UK , The New Zipper Company, makers of BDM Zippers .. The New Zipper Company Ltd
Amron International makes drysuit zippers ... Amron Drysuit Zippers, Patches and Adhesives - Amron International
DUI will sell you their zipper ... Waterproof Zipper (up to 42") $240

 

[cottonbroker]

Thanks for this and the pictures. i'm about ready to tackel mine. I'll start finding the parts. I have an old Bare suit and the zipper is really shot i just wrote you earlier today and then I found your great picture post. I'll have to remember to take pics when i do it so if i screw up and show people what not to do, already done that once.

Find Zipper and s-18 or PB 300

 

[Leisure Pro Brett]

I'm about to undertake the zipper change myself on an old Bare Trilam Sport shoulder entry drysuit. The teeth are literally falling out of the zipper in multiple places right now and it's no fun diving with water dripping into the suit the whole time. I have the zipper already but need to setup the wood zipper blocks like dave4868 used, I am so glad that I found this “how to” because dave had some great ideas that will definitely help this come out better than it would have. I also have to wrangle the glue up, in the past I have used weldwood (I think that was the brand) contact cement from Home Depot, mainly because it was just down the street and there was no hazardous materials fee on the shipping. In all the repairs I have done with that cement it has worked great but I may try giving the S-18 a try if I can find it around here it sounds like it might be a better choice. I also have a sewing machine at home that should handle the material no problem, but I am not really sure if I need to go through all that as it seems the glue should work without issue. I will be sure to take some pictures and post them for everybody to see when I am done with the project.

 

[letterboy]

interesting, thanks for reviving this old thread Brett.

I have a Mares Semi-dry back entry suit needing a new zipper . . .

So when is LP going to start selling zippers

 

[Leisure Pro Brett]

The zippers are hard to come by, but luckily there were some sources mentioned in the first page of this thread. I had a couple of places I called that wouldn't even sell me a zipper without installing it themselves. As for LP selling them, not sure if the drysuit brands would sell them to us as parts for people to buy, but I'll look into it and see what my buyers say.

 

[letterboy]

Cool, niche market as they say
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[dave4868]

I'm about to undertake the zipper change myself on an old Bare Trilam Sport shoulder entry drysuit. The teeth are literally falling out of the zipper in multiple places right now and it's no fun diving with water dripping into the suit the whole time. I have the zipper already but need to setup the wood zipper blocks like dave4868 used, I am so glad that I found this “how to” because dave had some great ideas that will definitely help this come out better than it would have. I also have to wrangle the glue up, in the past I have used weldwood (I think that was the brand) contact cement from Home Depot, mainly because it was just down the street and there was no hazardous materials fee on the shipping. In all the repairs I have done with that cement it has worked great but I may try giving the S-18 a try if I can find it around here it sounds like it might be a better choice. I also have a sewing machine at home that should handle the material no problem, but I am not really sure if I need to go through all that as it seems the glue should work without issue. I will be sure to take some pictures and post them for everybody to see when I am done with the project.

The zippers are hard to come by, but luckily there were some sources mentioned in the first page of this thread. I had a couple of places I called that wouldn't even sell me a zipper without installing it themselves. As for LP selling them, not sure if the drysuit brands would sell them to us as parts for people to buy, but I'll look into it and see what my buyers say.

Hey, Brett,

Thanks, but I have to admit that most of the ideas are borrowed or stolen... from some of the best minds out there, hopefully....

I might be able to lay claim on improvising the use of plastic cut from ZipLoc-type bags as protective strips on the tacky glue of the zipper. That allowed easy positioning of the zipper and very controllable joining of the glued surfaces. I can highly recommend that technique! An ounce of prevention.....

1-gallon sized bags are good because the plastic appears to be more slippery, sticking only lightly to the tacky glue. That, and being stronger, made it easy to peel off later without tearing the plastic.

I highly recommend:

WETSUIT AND DRYSUIT MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR by Steven Lindblom

His chapter on zippers is excellent, covering in great detail the removal and replacement of rear entry shoulder zips. He includes dozens of pics with text.

A slotted zipper block wasn't necessary for his back-zip jobs since the zippers were glued right-side-up to the outside surface of the suit, unlike my installation above. Lindblom did use a wooden board inside the suit to provide a firm work area and to protect the inside of the suit from sharp tools or spills, however.

As far as glue sources, the maker of S-18 could refer you to distributors:

R-H Products of Acton, MA. (978) 897-8000

Otherwise, a recent thread included ScubaBoarder Hallmac's recommendation for using DAP 610 contact cement for drysuit repair. It appears to be easier to find than S-18 and very inexpensive. I'll probably try it myself. Here's Hallmac's post:

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/4504094-post7.html

If I can't find my next zipper in the US next time, I'll probably try the manufacturer of the BDM zipper, The New Zipper Company, in the UK, as linked by D_B above:

The New Zipper Company Ltd

I'll be interested to hear how you make out with sources and techniques. Good luck!

Dave C

 

[Leisure Pro Brett]

Dave, I'm ok with borrowing ideas, I'd have to mess the process up 10 times before I came up with ideas that good. I will for sure be using your 1 gallon bag trick, having had issues trying to line up glue and seals on wrist and neck seal replacements, I know it will be very helpful. In looking at Hallmack's post I think he's talking about the same glue I used, interestingly enough I came across this glue by comparing the "ingredients" on this glue and the glue I paid way too much money for from a major drysuit manufacturer.
I've also spoken to the higher ups about bringing in some drysuit zippers, so we will see how that pans out, no promises, but hopefully we will stock a range of them and make these things a little easier to get your hands on.