DIY Canister Light

[victorzamora]

Hahaha, I'm not trying to waste time...I'm simply trying to make sure I get exactly what I'm hoping for the first time around. Yes, it is my first build...which is why I want to understand the decisions I'm making. Being unaware of the depth issue DID hinder that decision...but now I'm learning!

It might just be DealExtreme's website, but the 5LED shows as 1A on high (1200 lumens) and the XML as 3A at 1000 lumens. I'll have to look other places to verify those claims, I guess.

 

[350xfire]

Hahaha, I'm not trying to waste time...I'm simply trying to make sure I get exactly what I'm hoping for the first time around. Yes, it is my first build...which is why I want to understand the decisions I'm making. Being unaware of the depth issue DID hinder that decision...but now I'm learning!

It might just be DealExtreme's website, but the 5LED shows as 1A on high (1200 lumens) and the XML as 3A at 1000 lumens. I'll have to look other places to verify those claims, I guess.

Don't trust about 25% of the crap you read at DX... I have had both and used a lab power supply and multi meter to measure. They both use close to the same power.

 

[victorzamora]

350xfire....I'm going to stop "wasting [my] time" and just take your advice as soon as you confirm that this is the one you recommend. Reason I'm asking is because it's a 5-mode module and you don't seem fond of those.

I'm going to also base my estimates off of your numbers: so, 1.7A@7.4V. So that's 12.58W. My preliminary hope is 2x2s1p packs in parallel for 7.4V.

@10Ah, that's 74Wh, so appx 5.9 hours of runtime
@8Ah, that's 59.2Wh, so appx 4.7 hours of runtime
@5Ah, that's 37Wh, so appx 2.95 hours of runtime

I don't know...but that seems really optimistic to me. 5xD-Cell alkalines are: 7.5V @ 18Ah for 10.7 hours of battery life. The Cree website says that the XML pulls 3A. If it were 3A at 7.4V, that's 22.2W. The runtimes for all four would be: 10Ah-3.3hrs, 8Ah-2.67hrs, 5Ah-1.67hrs, 5D-6 hours.

 

[350xfire]

350xfire....I'm going to stop "wasting [my] time" and just take your advice as soon as you confirm that this is the one you recommend. Reason I'm asking is because it's a 5-mode module and you don't seem fond of those.

I'm going to also base my estimates off of your numbers: so, 1.7A@7.4V. So that's 12.58W. My preliminary hope is 2x2s1p packs in parallel for 7.4V.

@10Ah, that's 74Wh, so appx 5.9 hours of runtime
@8Ah, that's 59.2Wh, so appx 4.7 hours of runtime
@5Ah, that's 37Wh, so appx 2.95 hours of runtime

I don't know...but that seems really optimistic to me. 5xD-Cell alkalines are: 7.5V @ 18Ah for 10.7 hours of battery life. The Cree website says that the XML pulls 3A. If it were 3A at 7.4V, that's 22.2W. The runtimes for all four would be: 10Ah-3.3hrs, 8Ah-2.67hrs, 5Ah-1.67hrs, 5D-6 hours.

Good idea.... BTW, you are right in that I am not a lover of the multimode. However, in this case, I really like it. It is a $20 module that can be easily modded to fit in a Mag head and keeps up or outperforms $1000 lights. Definitely can't go wrong with it.

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/cree-x...-drop-in-module-with-textured-reflector-58481

Your calcs are actually half of the run time. If you pull 3 amps at a Vf of around 3.2-3.5 volts, then you would pull around 1.7 amps at 7.4 volts. Your run time will be 4.5-5 hours+ with 2s4p 18650.

 

[victorzamora]

What acrylic should I use? I'm considering 1/8" walled cast acrylic tubing for the case. Does that seem like enough, or am I crazy? I simply cannot find cheaper acrylic that will help. I'm thinking that might not be enough for good depth. On top of just the tube, I'm also going to have some internal structure. I can't find a source for cheap-ish acrylic tubing...and it's mildly depressing. I also can't find ANY data on strength...and THAT is upsetting.

I've got the CAD models basically ready to roll, but I'm going to wait to upload the screenshots until I get an answer on the acrylic tubing size.

 

[350xfire]

What acrylic should I use? I'm considering 1/8" walled cast acrylic tubing for the case. Does that seem like enough, or am I crazy? I simply cannot find cheaper acrylic that will help. I'm thinking that might not be enough for good depth. On top of just the tube, I'm also going to have some internal structure. I can't find a source for cheap-ish acrylic tubing...and it's mildly depressing. I also can't find ANY data on strength...and THAT is upsetting.

I've got the CAD models basically ready to roll, but I'm going to wait to upload the screenshots until I get an answer on the acrylic tubing size.

I highly recommend the TLS clear PVC canister... lol!
How deep do you want to go? Can you post a drawing of what you want to build? Are you using latches, threaded lids, etc...? would need more details.

Canister is NOT where you want to cheap out. That protects what is probably the most expensive part of your lihght,- the battery!

 

[victorzamora]

Well, my plan was your latches to hold the lid on. The base was going to be rings of whatever material I decide to use stacked on each other to create a plug. Also, I'd be bonding all of it with a chemical glue. I will be using your cable glands, as well as your switch/boot assembly. Do you have sizing specs on it?

In the picture I'm posting, each endcap is using 4x1/4" plates of acrylic. I may cut that down to 2 or 3 layers. The one side you see with two unfilled holes is where the switch and gland will be going. The other end is the bottom cap. The bottom cap will be permanently attached, the top cap will use clips. I WILL be modifying the top cap to better fit the switch and gland. In the picture, there is a weird sled thing in the tubing. That is a sled for the LiPo batteries I'm planning on using. It'll keep the batteries from getting damaged. I looked into smaller tubes, and am still considering 2.5" ID tubing. The batteries should fit the 2.5"ID, but I'm afraid it'll be too tight.

I'm okay with using PVC, but I would've preferred Acrylic. As for the TLS canister, I can't find it on your website. Any help locating it?

 

[350xfire]

The canister is attached to the light shown...
http://tlslights.com/images/Pics/p7.jpg

The latches will need at least 1/4" to get the screw into the wall without penetrating it. They are a real pain to locate without an indexing tool on a milling machine.

The Agro glands are M16x1.5 thread and the switch uses a 15/32" steam.... Instead of a toggle, have you considered a hall effect switch? Look at Taskled.com Halltg or HallSw"
Hallsw Product Information
Halltg Product Information

The tg model holds its state even when the magnet is taken off. The sw will turn on and off when the magnet is removed. I really like these as they do not reauire you to put a hole on the canister. They work very well. Just a thought!

Oh and BTW, I have a canister that I had to rob a lid from. So if you want a can with only one lid, where you can fab up the second lid, you can have it cheap! I would fab up a tight fitting plug and just JB Weld in place... Also for your laminated lids JB Weld works great. Do not use regular epoxy or else the water will cause it to fail!

 

[victorzamora]

If I knew more about how that Hall Effect switch worked, I'd be down for it! Also, about that canister....I'm looking up batteries to fit. When I do, I'll probably order it from you along with other stuff.

With the hall effect switch, is all I need that board (I'm looking at the toggle version), some cheap wires (I have a lot of like 22Ga-16Ga wires) and a magnet? If so, I'm going HE! If not, what else is required?

 

[350xfire]

If I knew more about how that Hall Effect switch worked, I'd be down for it! Also, about that canister....I'm looking up batteries to fit. When I do, I'll probably order it from you along with other stuff.

With the hall effect switch, is all I need that board (I'm looking at the toggle version), some cheap wires (I have a lot of like 22Ga-16Ga wires) and a magnet? If so, I'm going HE! If not, what else is required?

Don't be sacred! The HE is nothing more than a switch to you and me... Battery wires in (2) power wires out (2). 22g is perfect as the solder pads are really small. Yes, need a magnet. I would encase the magnet in silicone or something otherwise it will rust up. The board is less than half and inch by half and inch. Will fit on the tip of your finger. So not a lot of space.