Diving the Caymans

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joewr

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I hate to be negative, but we just spent three weeks in the Caymans and were very disappointed. We started on Cayman Brac and had to sit out some bad weather, but once that passed through, we got down to the fun stuff.

The diving on Brac was so-so, with only a few real highlights. The most memorable was seeing three free-swimming Green Morays on consecutive morning dives.

All three were about 7 feet long. Very impressive. Divi Tiara, once the flagship resort on the Brac, is aging and badly in need of maintainance. Very badly in need! The food on Brac is universally mediocre, and, although we do not go to dive sites for the cuisine, Brac was one of the lowest rated in our travels. The Captain's Table was okay - just okay. Divi Tiara was expensive and very mediocre. Stay very clear of Aunt Sha's if you have an aversion to food cooked in rancid oil! Esperanza is not worth the trip to remotest spot on the island.

The Divi dive shop was okay, but the dive masters tend toward the lazy side. We did not hear any raves about the other dive shops.

The weather was too poor to head toward Little Cayman and so I cannot comment.

On the positive side, I note that we had a medical "emergency" and the hospital provided very good service and medicine for a very resonable fee.

Grand Cayman had wonderful weather, but the diving was a little short of what we came to expect based on magazines and guide books. No one that we know had any recent experiences there. However, we were tremendously disappointed by Sunset House.

We chose to stay there because Cathy Church's place is there, because of its long history of diving Grand Cayman. It was also recommended by people who had been there (albeit, a long time ago).

The resort was:
  • Poorly maintained (ie., the drain in our shower had to be carefully avoided or one could be badly cut by the sharp tiles that were jutting out from a poorly done repair)
  • Poorly cleaned (A Q-Tip remained on the same spot on the bathroom floor for 10 days!)
  • Poorly equipped (All of our sheets and towels were threadbare - some were even torn!)
  • Poorly managed (We arrived from the Brac at 10 pm only to discover that there was no one to help with the luggage - just the person at the desk who gave us vague directions to our room)
Now, I am fit enough to haul my luggage around, but "schleping" scuba gear, camera gear, and clothing sufficient for three weeks is not what I want to do at 10 pm - especially when I am not sure where I am going.

Then there was the restaurant, The Sea Harvest. While nearly every other restaurant on that part of the island booms at lunch and dinner, the The Sea Harvest is deserted!

However, breakfast has a fair number of customers because it is included in packages. After two rounds of coffee that tasted like boiled cardboard and food that would make McD's look like an Alice Waters' restaurant, we bought cereal, milk and some good Earl Grey tea and enjoyed it in our room.

On the brighter side, the Grand Old House and the Wharf were excellent for dinner. Lunch was provided daily by "On the Rocks", a restaurant in George Town. An unprepossesing place, it had just wonderful lunch fare. The french fries, alone, would get me there! Warm breezes wafted through the ourdoor area where lunch can be eaten and we loved the food and the view.

The diving was mostly uninspiring. We went with Sunset Divers and were not impressed. However, a couple of their dive masters were notable: Bill "senior" from Toronto and Chris. First rate in every sense of the word.

The thing that Sunset does that I wish every place would do is draw a map of the site on a white board that pivots from the ceiling. They did this on every dive save the ones where almost no one could get lost. Much better than the vague had signals I am accustomed to getting. However, over all, I cannot recommmend Sunset divers.

If you insist on using them be sure to ask to be put on Sea Ray: it is the fastest, smallest boat they run. We did hear good things about River Sports Divers, but could not get on one of their trips. Bob Soto tends to have cattle boats. Cannot comment on other houses.

The diving was so, so: a few memorable ones - Cheeseburger Reef had a wonderful school of Tarpon that gleam and shimmer and come quite close. I have not gotten my film back from that dive, but expect some dramatic "front on" shots!

The night dive we did on the wreck of the Balboa was nearly a zero until I spotted a pair of adult Drums. That made the dive. But, unless you get your jollies watching sleeping parrotfish and lethargic blue tangs, it was not much of a dive.

Hope I have not offended anyone.

Joewr
 
Joewr,

You did not offend me. I wish I could hear more honest resort and dive shop reports like yours. It's the best way in my business to know where to send people, and where not to!

I would like to know if you've been to Cozumel, Bonaire, or Roatan.

Cozumel and Roatan are really part of the same reef system as Cayman. If people ask me which I liked the best, I usually have the same answer.

To me Cozumel is the 'downtown' part of the reef, with Cayman and Roatan being part of the suburbs. It's always great to go to the burbs, but nothing beats downtown.

Bonaire is a completly different reef system, that I can soon compare to these, when I return in March.

Anyway, your report was refreshing, although sad for you.

I hope your next dive destination gives you more joy.



 
Natasha,

Yep, been to Cozumel. In fact, was there last November for a return engagement. We love Cozumel and think of it as the standard for good diving in the Western Caribbean - I guess that is what the space between Cozumel Island and the Yucatan Penninsula is... Our favorite place is the Fiesta Americana because it is away from town and very quiet.

However, we usually taxi into town for lunch/dinner or groceries/sundries (at Chedraui) and walk part way back to the hotel before taking a cab the rest of the way home.

We have never been disappointed with the diving in Cozumel - although some days have not been as interesting as we would have hoped for. The drift dives are the best! We prefer the dive shops that use 6-packs, although we have not heard too many negatives about the others. The Dive House, located at the Fiesta, seems to satisfy most folks - they usually have 8-12 divers on a boat. I have dived with them and can endorse them for folks who want a guided dive with pretty good service. Their night dives are top notch. But, as I mentioned, there are lots of good dive shops in town and I am reluctant to single out one as the best.

I wrote in another note to this site that a new restaurant opened in town: The French Quarter. We think that it is the best place in town to eat. Bar none!

Finally, for those who are a little adventurous, I recommend that they fly in to Cancun and take a taxi to the ferry for the final leg to Cozumel. We have had lots of bad experiences with late flights, canceled flights, etc. when flying to Cozumel from Cancun. The ferry is much more reliable.

We are thinking about heading to Bonaire in June/July this year for about 3 weeks. We have heard good things about Buddy's resort. What is your opinion? We tend to like accommodations that are luxurious rather than spare. Have you been Bonaire recently? We hear that the shore dives are great as well.

Thanks,

Joewr
 
Joe,
I'm going to Bonaire in March with a group of 13 women and 9 men divers.
Most of us are flying the new route that Air jamaica has. I've heard great things so far.
We're staying at what I have researched as the #1 place to stay on Bonaire. It's called the Plaza Resort.
I'll be meeting with the owner of the resort and the manager of the dive shop, "Toucan Dive" ( rated #5 in the whole Caribbean for dive shops) while at DEMA next week.
I'll let you know all the goodies when we get back in March. :sunny:
 
Joe,
Possibly you should've checked out Scuba Source before your trip to Cayman, we have on board a resident of the Cayman's.
Caymancase, is a divemaster in resident on the islands. She's full of info about the islands and willing to share with all.

maybe this will help nextime.

Don
 
Joe; Did you dive the North Wall? Sounds like you only dove the south side. The North Wall at Grand Cayman and Bloody Bay reef at Little Cayman have been the best areas that I have dove. The northwest side of GC has some great sights also. I have made 14 trips to the Cayman Islands over the years. The weather can be a problem at times with nor'westers this time of year. We stayed at Brac Reef last June and enjoyed it very much. If you ever get a chance to dive Little Cayman, I would highly recommend it.
RonC.
 
joewr,

We just returned from Sunset House and had a good time. Our group was happy in our choice on where to have our dive vacation.

We thought the diving out front of the hotel was great. We saw eagle rays (one with a baby) near the 9' bronze mermaid 100 yds off shore.

We saw turtles, rays, nurse sharks and more angel (especially queen) fish 10 minutes after leaving our room.

The rooms: It is not the Hyatt, the rooms were simple, tiled floors, cable TV and phone. On one occasion our bedding was not quite right and a call to the front desk resolved that.

We too arrived later in the evening when the staff is only the front desk person and a manager on duty. To us, it only made sense that they did not have bell hops waiting on us. It is a divers hotel. (Price the hotels on Seven Mile Beach, you'll get bell hops there)

The SeaHarvest Restaurant on property caters to the hotel, more than outside business. We did not eat there every night, making a group night dive and having something to eat where we didn't have to dress up and take a taxi or rent a car. We too had breakfast there every morning. Granted, it was not Starbucks coffee, but it woke me up after an evening at the Bar.

The dive operations was good too. They drew the reef and wall dive with detail for us. They let us dive how we wanted. No follow the leader or someone breathing down your neck. Some of our group tried the rebreather experience course. I've never been to a resort that had rebreathers right there with staff to either just talk about it or give you a course.

We are planning a group trip back. Sorry you had a bad experience, maybe bad weather or starting off bad in Cayman Brac?


 
Well, maybe I am more demanding than most when it comes to accommodations and food???? However, I have stayed at lots of dive "resorts" with tiled floors, etc. and felt that they were well maintained--though not luxurious. That was not my complaint. Cleanliness, timely repair work, lights that work, TVs that do not lose channels, curtains and towels that are not tattered, shower doors that do not fall off their mounts, razor sharp tile "repairs" that are not a hazard, etc. are minimal requirements. And how about large closets that have only 4 hangers? How about having to ask for soap every other day? And finally, EVERY other dive "resort" at which we have stayed has had someone to assist with luggage. It does not seem too much to ask, but it was not a life threating experience. Just an amenity that is appreciated. And I am not referring to Marriotts and Hiltons!

I have also spent a fair amount of time eating backpacking food and other less than elegant cuisine and have not had complaints because the food was appropriate to the location. However, Grand Cayman has many, many good, cost effective restaurants. The Sea Harvest does not qualify in any regard. If you are ever there, compare the number of customers at dinner time to virtually any other restaurant in the area.

Ironically, I have to agree about the shore dive. We only did one at Sunset--our first full day there. It was one of our best dives--one of the most beautiful hawksbills we have ever seen spent 5 minutes cruising around us. Boy, did I regret not taking my camera!

But the rest of the diving was just mediocre. As regard Sunset Divers, I think that I mentioned that the maps that the staff drew were exemplary and that I wish other dive shops would emulate that. However, I am used to fewer people on the dive boat--i.e., fewer people at the dive site.

But as I have said before, Julius Caeser once told me, "De gustubus non disputandum est." Different strokes for different folks.

Thanks to all for the feedback.

Joewr
 
Don't let your bad experience turn you off to the island! Sunset House is one of the older establishments on the island but there are many places to stay here on the 7 Mile Beach stretch that are reasonable and new with all the amenities. And I'm thinking that you were here when we all had to move our diving South because of the weather? Even when it's sunny here the winds affect where we dive and what areas. It also affects the visibility. We had a long winter stretch this year where we couldn't dive North or West. Mother Nature..but it's not the usual.
As far as dive operations, there a number of smaller operations here that only take out 8 divers max at a time(us for one). Joanne (good friend of mine) at Rivers Sports Divers is excellent. We run the same sort of operation. The problem with that is that we only have space for 8 so prebooking is almost a must during high season. But it's worth it! Not only do you get more personalized service but we tend to go the sites that the cattleboats don't. More pristine coral and, if Mother Nature is on our side, tons of critters! As a matter of fact I found a beauty of a seahorse today ( he thought he could hide, ha!)... not to mention numerous turtles, a few huge lobsters,a green moray and an adult spotted drum just waiting for his picture to be taken (Darn...left my camera home!)Oh yeah... tons of fish!
So please don't count out Grand Cayman, Joe! There is a multitude of great places to stay, great restaurants and, especially, great diving here. That's why I chose this island for my home! Then again, I come from Connecticut... sorry, but I'm done with single digit temps and shovelling! And dry suits! No disrespect to you cold water divers...
Happy Diving! Cayman Case
 
I can't imagine even thinking about TV in the Caymans.

I appreciate that food needs to be edible, but keep in mind different cultures have different types of food. When I travel, I prefer to avoid places that cater to Americans. I can eat American food at home, when I travel, I want to experience the culture including the food.

I'm not concerned about the room, but I do like it to be clean and not falling apart. If it wasn't clean or if the shower was falling apart, I'd have a problem with it too.

I prefer to carry my own luggage in any hotel and never expect a bell hop at a dive resort.

I've dived Cozumel, Roatan & the Caymans. Of the three, I prefer the diving in the Caymans. Cozumel, while definately world class, is not up to the standards of the other two, IMHO.

I wish you'd had a better time.

Walter

 
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