Diving Light recommendations

[BDSC]

I did see some handheld models with a meter and a sensor where you can place a flashlight over it for around $200 but I can't imagine they would be all that accurate but maybe they would be decent. Just measured intensity though. Obviously not a beam pattern. Tempted to get one just to play around with it.

 

[tbone1004]

I did see some handheld models with a meter and a sensor where you can place a flashlight over it for around $200 but I can't imagine they would be all that accurate but maybe they would be decent. Just measured intensity though. Obviously not a beam pattern. Tempted to get one just to play around with it.

those are the lux meters. The problem with those is that a mm can make a big difference. It's something to gauge overall effectiveness of a major change or something, but not accurate enough to publish data from

Either way, the BB lights are not what they are made out to be in terms of specs and if you treat them as more realistic, they are still very well made lights and I have no problem with them other than blatantly exaggerated claims

 

[ronscuba]

Does that website have any test results on current Big Blue lights ? Looks like all the models tested have been upgraded a few generations since.

What is their definition of burn time ? Time until light goes out or time until light dims a certain % ?

What do you think about the Big Blue VL8300P light ? It is $620 listed as 8300 lumens with 2.5 hr burn time vs Light and Motion Sola 3800F $600, 3800 lumens 50 minute burn time ?

I think it is common for light companies use the LED manufacturers specs. So if the LED is listed as putting out 1000 lumens, the light company will list it as a 1000 lumen light and also use the LED mfr burn specs w/o sending the light out for independent testing. Not saying this right or wrong, but it is common practice.

 

[tbone1004]

the definition of burn time is when there is a significant drop in output as opposed to when it shuts off.

I have not seen any of the modern big blue lights perform in different manners to their predecessors and more importantly the claims of lumen output vs. burn times are not feasible with todays technology.

The manufacturers are definitely using LED specs from the sites to make assumptions due to lack of the actual testing equipment. This is fine. Some manufacturers factor in things like expected efficiency of components others do not. That is why you see some backup lights listed as 1200 lumen, and others as 800. 800 is realistic, 1200 is not.

The biggest thing hindering the BB lights is the batteries themselves. They are not using particularly high quality batteries and more importantly not high capacity batteries. Lights like the UWLD's use a buck driver which lowers the voltage from the pack to the driver. This means that no matter what the battery status is, the LED's are able to take as much voltage as they need. This results in a light that doesn't dim over the course of the burn time. When you use a single cell, the light output is typically tied directly to cell voltage which results in the output curves that are shown. Again, not a problem, just understand that it's a thing. Put more load on the battery, and the voltage drop is great *why your car battery goes from 13.x volts when fresh down to about 11v when you go to crank it*. More LED's=more lumens=more watt draw=more voltage drop=>drop in light output.
If you put a sufficiently large battery behind the BB lights they may well be able to reach their claimed outputs, but not with the batteries that they are designed around.

 

[Compressor]

Hello Scubaboard,
I am looking for a primary light that have powerful beam , as I am diving in cold water and the visibility is aroung 9 ft .. may be less in some days ..

currently I am doing the internship for DM , and hopefully be an instructor in the future as well as planning to have GUE trainings... hence, I need light to be used in all of these scenarios , not to throw it away when I do other types of diving..

i did some research online and i saw the canister lights but I believe they are a bit expensive to own now , and i think it is nice to postpone purchasing it when i get serious in GUE/technical diving , is that right ??

another question is , is it better to get goodman handle and have the primary light mounted on it , or it is better to keep it simple and I attach it to my hips or shoulder harness ?

also willing to hear some recommendations about backup lights..
Regards

Light monkey lights are awesome.
I also have 2 backups: one is Scubapro Nova and the other is DGE.

 

[Patoux01]

This means that no matter what the battery status is, the LED's are able to take as much voltage as they need. This results in a light that doesn't dim over the course of the burn time. When you use a single cell, the light output is typically tied directly to cell voltage which results in the output curves that are shown. Again, not a problem, just understand that it's a thing

That claim is FOS. I've ran no less than 12leds at 1.5Vf each in series from a single cell. Constant output from start to end. I just used a boost. Also had to drive a single led of 3.5Vf from a single cell, again no problem, called a buck-boost.

You don't have to only buck (although it is typically slightly more efficient), there's other ways of driving leds, and all end in constant current (as long as the battery can output the required power, not voltage). Nobody uses leds without drivers, certainly not torches that have 4 different power levels...

 

[tbone1004]

@Patoux01 correct, they're all using drivers, some are constant output, those are more expensive. The ones in the less expensive lights are not. Even those that are buck-boost drivers often do not have constant output from the drivers hence the falloff in light output. If you look at the output curves they look suspiciously like the voltage curve of a li-po cell

 

[ronscuba]

I am happy with my BB video light. My video shooting style is to only turn my lights on when I record. Plus, I am very particular what I record. I don't hit record and let the camera go for long periods. That becomes an editing nightmare.

On a typical 60 minute dive, I might record 10 to 15 minutes of footage in multiple short clips. With this video shooting style, a gradual lumen fall off is not a concern.

Seeing the information posted on the website you linked and reading your technical explanations has been educational. However, I would still purchase the BB video light over the Light and Motion. BB is spec'd more than double L&M. Even if I assume BB performs 60% of spec, that is still higher than L&M at a similar price.

I think most divers would be happy with either light. It is nice to have choices.

 

[Divegoose]

What kind of rechargeable batteries do you use?

Hi FM1520,

I use the UK batteries that came with the lights. Both hold good charges - I can get several dives before I have to recharge a battery. The Light Cannon has an option of using regular "C" cell batteries, but I have never used them. Hope this answers your questions.

Dive safe !!

Divegoose

 

[dhaines429]

I think you made a good choice. One of my dive buddies has the Big Blue TL3100. After seeing it in action, I've decided that it's going to be my next major equipment purchase. As far as "bang for the buck", there aren't many lights that can compare. If I'm not mistaken, my dive buddy used this light while blackwater diving in the Cooper River with great success.

Or just go for the tl4500 self contained and a very bright light. I thought it might feel bulky at first but with the quick mount glove