Diving Configuration

[Nemrod]

Get yourself a brand spanking new Faber LP 85, these are 7.0 inch diameter and work very well with the heavier wetsuits. They are not super negative like some steels but more negative than the traditional 72. I like my Faber 85s with my 1/4 inch suits.

I have had zero problem with the banjo adapters, they are excellent and I highly recommend them. Get a hookah port adapter for use of a octo on a 40 inch hose.

Diving vintage, you may have to start THINKING vintage, heavy steel tanks are vogue in the modern community where they depend on a wing or BC but vintage you don't have that option. You cannot use the heavy tanks. You must weight for your exposure suit. That way if back on the surface or wherever you jettison weight to get buoyant you don't have to drop your tank, just a belt. I say it over and over, aluminum 80s really do work well for no BC diving. You weight for your exposure suit and your tank is not really part of your weight, I am not saying it well but your tank should not be the majority of your weight. As well, correctly weighted you will be buoyant at the surface or only barely neutral at the beginning of the dive, by the middle of the dive you will be neutral or close--at depth and by the end of the dive you will be buoyant and by the time you pass 15 feet you may be a cork--we did not do safety stops in the old days. That is why I say, we SWIM down (with a surface dive if need be) and we swim around and then we SWIM up.

Nem

 

[rstofer]

I don't understand why you are dismissing a 71.2 cu ft steel tank. I have at least a dozen, none of which were bought new by me.

I don't mean it to sound that way nor do I dismiss the input of those who go out of their way to recommend them. I just don't have a source. If I could walk into a store or click on a link and get a couple of tanks, it would be done in an instant. But I have no reason to think that my LDS wants to deplete their supply of rental tanks - at the moment. Perhaps if business slows substantially, that could change.

In the meantime, I'll keep looking around. It just won't be my only solution.

Were I to use a HP 80, I would only load it to 3000 psi or perhaps less. If I had it filled to 2500 psi, it would be about 58 cf. That might be a little small. At 3000 psi it would be about 70 cf. That might be ok with a PRAM with the modern yoke.

An HP 100 at 2500 psi is right at 72 cf.

Richard

 

[rstofer]

I say it over and over, aluminum 80s really do work well for no BC diving. You weight for your exposure suit and your tank is not really part of your weight, I am not saying it well but your tank should not be the majority of your weight.

Nem

I do understand your point about the tank not being a major part of your ballast - it isn't ditchable. In fact, I had thought the Al 80 would be a good choice because it was positive at the end of the dive. I don't think it will work out but it would be pretty slick if an empty (well, nearly empty) tank would float the rig.

I have the Phoenix nozzle on order. Maybe my first attempt would be better with auxiliary equipment: BC (horse collar), SPG, octo. It would certainly be safer. Perhaps I should put the 'more or less vintage' project on the back burner. We'll see...

One problem I am having with the cam pack and an aluminum 50 is that I can't slide the pack far enough down the tank because it runs into the boot. There's an obvious solution for that. I probably need to replace the harness as well because it won't let the pack ride low enough before I run out of belt. That's not a big problem either.

I'm also going to look into the availability of tank bands for the vintage harness approach. If they are available for 7.5" tanks, I'll try that approach as well.

Thanks everyone for your insight. I'll continue to look around for LP 72s and if I come across them, I'll make every attempt to get some.

Richard

 

[Nemrod]

You need to replace the webbing so you can open up the shoulder straps. For some reason, most are to small for full size modern burger fed adults--me included.

I am a vintage rebel, IMO, I love steel 72s but they are a PITA. Between rust issues and the infamous epoxy liner and vinyl outer coatings may are not worth the effort. In many parts of the country they are as rare as hens teeth. Yes, up Great Lakes way, fresh water, lot's of divers there are still a plentiful supply of 72s, may others places, nada. I would keep my eyes peeled, of course, for a nice set of steel 72s but meanwhile----. Most vintage back packs will not take 7.25 tanks without modification but the Faber LP 85s usually fit because they are only 7.0 inch diameter.

N, scubazoic survivor

 

[Nemrod]

This 50 in a Snug Pac is a bit high, minus the extra length of a Phoenix (standard DA or RAM) you should be able to drop your tank low enough to work, somewhat below the lip of the pack. With the extra length of the Phoenix you need to leave the tank higher and open the shoulder straps up some. Not all back packs will work with the Phoenix, at least not without some adjustments of this or that.

That said, another vintage rebel, contrary concept, I am not into the caveman, lower the tank until it drags thinking.

N

 

[DA Aquamaster]

This 50 in a Snug Pac is a bit high, minus the extra length of a Phoenix (standard DA or RAM) you should be able to drop your tank low enough to work, somewhat below the lip of the pack. With the extra length of the Phoenix you need to leave the tank higher and open the shoulder straps up some. Not all back packs will work with the Phoenix, at least not without some adjustments of this or that.

That said, another vintage rebel, contrary concept, I am not into the caveman, lower the tank until it drags thinking.

I have what amounts to the USD version of the snug pack and the PRAM is just a bit too far out from the valve to clear the lip of the pack. Very annoying as it is otherwise a very comfortable pack.

I am a vintage rebel, IMO, I love steel 72s but they are a PITA. Between rust issues and the infamous epoxy liner and vinyl outer coatings may are not worth the effort.

Marci asked me the other day why I have my own tank tumbler - a large number of steel 72's (as well as other steel tanks) would be the reason. It kinda goes with the territory.

An HP 100 at 2500 psi is right at 72 cf.

That is because they are both essentially 12L tanks. It is not a bad approach to consider as the HP 100 is a nice tank - just be aware it will be 3-4 pounds more negative than the average steel 72.

 

[rstofer]

I have on hand:

2 Luxfer Al S80 - the HEAVY version at 35#, +2.2# empty, -3.6# full
2 Luxfer Al 50 - 21.2#, +1.3# empty, -2.4# full
2 Worthington HP 100 - 33#, -2.5# empty, -10# full

Getting the Al 50's away from my grandson might be an issue but maybe I could borrow one for a test.

The Faber LP 85 is a practical candidate:
Weight 31.2#, 2.3# empty, -3.8# full
It is 4# lighter than an Al S80 and the buoyancy is about the same. It is also low pressure so I could use it with an unmodified DAAM.

I am also considering twin Al 50's like Vintage Repro. New Stainless Steel Scuba Tank Bands - eBay (item 190275460532 end time Dec-28-08 05:20:43 PST) or as shown on the VDH site. The tanks and bands are no problem. Does anyone have a specific selection for the plumbing? I have never tried to set up doubles so my first concern is the center-to-center distance between the valves using these specific bands. The second issue is that I would like to find a center outlet manifold. A very brief perusal of XS, Dive Rite and OMS turns up a lot of isolator valves but no manifold with a center outlet. I know I have seen these around but I'll be darned if I can find them when I need them.

Thanks for all the advice!
Richard

 

[micklock]

Vintage Healthways 3/4" Manifold 10" Spread RARE J w/HP - eBay (item 130261667074 end time Jan-07-09 17:05:05 PST)

 

[micklock]

There's a few more on here

Find Scuba - Vintage, Scuba, Snorkeling

 

[simonbeans]

Now you have an idea. Twin 50s. "Modern" can get at LDS, fit twin bands by Peanut king. Harness easily obtained, with an USD solid bar manifold, readily available via eBay and Mar-Vel if you have an account. I did this exact setup a couple of years ago. The tanks with the manifold are negative when empty (don't know numbers, and don't really care). Here is my setup with a Sportsways reg:

And this is the manifold you want. 3/4 straight O ring thread, parts mostly available, J-valve and did I say solid?