dive rite express package

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Use a single tank wing (like a Pioneer) for your single 120. Use a double tank wing (like the Halcyon Explorer or Dive Rite Classic) for the doubles.

The weight belt does not get in the way of the harness strap. I did away with my weight belt after pouring myself a channel weight, though.

If you dive with 14 pounds, and 6 goes into the backplate, that's only 8 pounds left. My channel weight is 8 pounds.. and, really, an 8 pound weightbelt is hardly noticable.
 
Oh yeah, www.northeastscubasupply.com has a couple of monthly specials going on.. you can get a complete bp/wing system for doubles for $329. You can always use that for your doubles, and use what you have now for your singles. Or you can toss on a single tank wing and STA for a couple hundred more and have a nice interchangable system you can use for both.
 
You will much happier with 2 wings, for for single tanks and one for doubles. I'm not rich by any means and I have 2 wings. In the end you will be much happier.
 
gerardnealon:
What a nice idea. Thanks. That lead didnt stick(weld) to the plate? Was it easy to get off?

Not at all. The whole thing took a little planning, but once the lead is poured in, it pops right out. No sticking at all.

Here are my tips.. make sure the lead and the pot are absolutely dry before starting. Never use the pot for anything else ever again. Bring an old spatula or spoon you'll never need again to skim the crud off the top (that one is important). A propane plumber's torch (can be had at Wal Mart for as little as $12, and a propane can is $1.88 EDIT: the torch also lets you heat up the plate before pouring the lead in, which makes for a smoother process. Just don't set the masking tape on fire ;) ) helps clean up the lead after the pour. Do it in a very ventilated area, preferably on concrete - and certainly not near anything that can catch on fire. Use masking tape to seal up any holes and plumber's putty to block off the ends. The masking tape will sort of "bake" to both metal pieces, but can be cleaned off with a little effort if you need it to. If you're going to use bolts to hold the thing in, bolt your STA to your plate to do the pour.. my first one had the bolts in the plate only, and the STA holes didn't line up perfectly, requiring me to do it again.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. Oh yeah.. and whatever you do, don't use duct tape anywhere near anything that's going to get hot. It bakes on into a sticky mess and does *not* come off later.
 
jonnythan:
Not at all. The whole thing took a little planning, but once the lead is poured in, it pops right out. No sticking at all.

Here are my tips.. make sure the lead and the pot are absolutely dry before starting. Never use the pot for anything else ever again. Bring an old spatula or spoon you'll never need again to skim the crud off the top (that one is important). A propane plumber's torch (can be had at Wal Mart for as little as $12, and a propane can is $1.88 EDIT: the torch also lets you heat up the plate before pouring the lead in, which makes for a smoother process. Just don't set the masking tape on fire ;) ) helps clean up the lead after the pour. Do it in a very ventilated area, preferably on concrete - and certainly not near anything that can catch on fire. Use masking tape to seal up any holes and plumber's putty to block off the ends. The masking tape will sort of "bake" to both metal pieces, but can be cleaned off with a little effort if you need it to. If you're going to use bolts to hold the thing in, bolt your STA to your plate to do the pour.. my first one had the bolts in the plate only, and the STA holes didn't line up perfectly, requiring me to do it again.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. Oh yeah.. and whatever you do, don't use duct tape anywhere near anything that's going to get hot. It bakes on into a sticky mess and does *not* come off later.

Thank you very much. I am going to try this out when I get my plate. I will be sure to let you know how I make out. What a really good idea. No more weight belts!!!! ;-)
 
There's some more info on this sort of thing around the board that you should try to read. http://www.scubaboard.com/t44202.html is a good place to start. Let me just say that molten lead is dangerous, and lead fumes are dangerous.. take the proper precautions, use common sense, and you'll be all set.

FWIW, I used old SCUBA weights I wasn't going to use anymore.
 
Gerard,
If you want a great Dive Rite package check out scuba.com
They have super deals on Dive Rite, I just got a Trans Pac II package off them it was $499. plus $14.95 S&H . It came with Trans PacII harness W/Rec Wing, crotch strap, Dive Rite's Newest weight system, double tank bands W/SS cam bands. The best part is that they are authorized dealers for everything they sell so you have no problem with the warranty. I even called Dive Rite to make sure. They also have some other good BC"S. I did call my LDS Dive Rite dealers to see if they could be beat the price but they said the setup I got was around $749. MSRP and the best they could do was around $649 so I saved a good deal of money but I did get my Dive Rite odds and ends of them so I did give them some business. :)
 
Jonnythan,
The reason I asked why Dive Rite is inferior is that I am looking for a double bladder wing for diving twin 12 liter steels in fresh water, sometimes diving wet. I can find double bladder wings from 4 companies: OMS, Dive Rite, Custom Divers (a UK company), and Divesystems (an Italian manufacturer). Of these, I prefer the specs of the Dive Rite Rec wings because the others have far more lift than I need...on the order of 75-100lbs. I can order Dive Rite in the States and have my daughter bring it over to Holland when she visits me this summer, avoiding $100 or so shipping costs and who-knows-how-much in customs fees. I know you prefer Halcyon and Oxycheq, but how do you feel about the double Rec Wings?

Phil
 
I don't think the construction of the Dive Rite wings are necessarily inferior. I've never even seen one. I'm also no tech diver, I'm just a rec guy who dives singles. I'm not the one to ask, but when I do get doubles I won't be diving them with a dual bladder wing. One of the things that bothers me with the dual bladder wing is that if one of the bladders starts filling, you won't know which one. Having two bladders solves an issue that I don't think really exists. Even with a ruptured wing, you can still orient yourself so that the wing holds air. Dive a drysuit and carry a lift bag and you have redundant inflation sources.

Diving heavy steels with a wetsuit is also something I'd think about. There are a lot of people here more qualified to give you reasons than me, but I've seen enough reasons to convince me not to do it and that diving a balanced kit is important.
 

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