Dive knife recommandations?

[blacknet]

Hello,

LOL that's funny. When I was in high school I would make various blades out of old saw blades. A neighbor had a forge and the setup for temper with chemical baths and the like. It was a very entertaining experience. The whole process is like a gunsmith, it can be done by hand but it's a LONG tedious process and allot of room for errors. Not something I recommend to anyone.

Also we forgot to mention the various places / services that will reharden/retemper the blade for a small fee. Turn around time varies, naturally.

Ed

 

[Ari]

Will be a small BC knive with ane sharp edge, one jaged edge and a line cutter

Ari

 

[devjr]

What else can I call it? The subject is too complex to give glib answers, and a dialogue drawing in a metallurgist and blacksmith could produce some interesting recommendations. I wouldn't mind seeing such a discussion but I doubt this is the right forum. Yet, practical experience says that the Pug is basically correct. Many of the soft and hard stainless steels can be worked with a grinder giving good results if the temperature is not too high. The steel should not be allowed to get cherry red, but a slight blue corona or patina left on the steel is usually no problem. However, one must be cautious with very thin steel so as to avoid this if possible. To cool the work, alternately dipping the piece in water is as good as any method for small jobs. Besides the obvious, this causes the worker to take a break and examine the work as it progresses. Cutting and milling these steels can be tricky because they "work harden"(surface hardening)and your tool bits will pay a price. Moreover, the worked surface may corrode slightly in salt water due to a phenomenon called crevice corrosion; the tiny abrasions accellerate corrosion.

I'm surprised that Blacknet's friend found it necessary to retemper the sawmill blades. My understanding is that the used blades originally carry a unique temper due to the heat and stress which the blade has undergone. That is, to preserve this structure the blades are cold ground under a water stream. Perhaps there is a need to restore surface hardening at the cutting edge?

In any case, noone should attempt to discourage "do it your selfers". This is part of the challenge of our sport. Mistakes or successes which may result are a useful part of maturing, learning and developing self confidence. Making, modifying or repairing a knife seems to be an ideal way to spend some time in the off hours. Simple precautions should be followed; Never grind soft metals such as aluminum and copper on a wheel. Do not try to taper the ends of spear gun rubber bands on a grinder; if the rubber end gets caught in the wheel, it can pull your hand into the grinder. If your knife blade melts, it's hot enough(G). Wear safety glasses and close fitting gloves when using a grinder.

 

[reiny13]

I'd recommend, sea snips, along with a small bc or computer mounted blunt tipped knife.

 

[Arduous]

I agree with Rick, carry both a knife and shears. Actually I carry three. I have a small BC mounted serrated edge knife and an Ocean Master long knife on my leg. I also carry a pair of shears in a utility pocket.

Dive Safe ………………..Arduous

 

[HERB KING]

I carry a small cheap knife which I attach to my inflate hose. Cheap because I seem to lose them very easily, and small because I cant think of anything that I would do with a large one.
My most treasured cutting utensil is a line cutter that has a razor blade for a cutting edge and can be bought at your local fishing tackle shop for about 8 bucks. And it will cut through most s.s. leaders, I know this all to well. One quick swip and it traps and cuts the line like butter.