Dive Computer Recommendations

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

LOL That is true. He has now made it absolutely clear that he just hates Shearwater and anyone that owns one. That's is just very childish attitude.
Well, I own one two (regular Perdix and one AI) with an AI o n the way, soon to be 3 (back down to 2 when I sell my regular Perdix). I'm sure some people hate me, but for different reasons most likely! :(

In all seriousness, people like what they like. While I don't agree with the sentiment that Shearwaters are bad products (as now with the Peregrine, they do serve the entire dive population with solid products), it is his prerogative to have his own preferences. I won't ever understand why he feels the way he does, but it isn't a legal requirement for me to do so.
 
A choice between a £1000 computer + a £70 wetsuit.
Or
a £500 drysuit, £100 computer and two diving trips.

The second option wins if you have just started diving.

:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3: There is no planet in the known multiverse on which a diving option involving a drysuit is better, for any definition of the word,
 
:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3: There is no planet in the known multiverse on which a diving option involving a drysuit is better, for any definition of the word,

I think we can convince you that a drysuit is better. Even in the warmer waters of Orkney, a weeks diving the High Sea's Fleet in April will convince you that a drysuit is better choice than a wetsuit. And that's with only two dives a day!

When I was going out to Malta in April/May/October. I always took a drysuit in preference to my wetsuit, even then, after an hour or more I would still be cold on exiting. A second big benefit is that putting the drysuit on for the second dive, at least it wasn't cold and wet.

Once you get chilled, its hard to warm back up, and as the week goes on, you get cold earlier on each subsequent dive. For me 'in water time' is a premium. So the warmer I am, the longer the dive can last (gas permitting).
 
I think we can convince you that a drysuit is better. Even in the warmer waters of Orkney, a weeks diving the High Sea's Fleet in April will convince you that a drysuit is better choice than a wetsuit. And that's with only two dives a day!

When I was going out to Malta in April/May/October. I always took a drysuit in preference to my wetsuit, even then, after an hour or more I would still be cold on exiting. A second big benefit is that putting the drysuit on for the second dive, at least it wasn't cold and wet.

Once you get chilled, its hard to warm back up, and as the week goes on, you get cold earlier on each subsequent dive. For me 'in water time' is a premium. So the warmer I am, the longer the dive can last (gas permitting).
Well, here we are in the field of personal preferences.
My preference is to dive in water so warm that no suit at all is needed, such as it happens at Maldives, or in some spots here in the Mediterranean where hot water is released by vulcanic activity (you know, those small islands around Sicily, such as Vulcano, Panarea, etc.).
Diving wearing minimal equipment (possibly even no BCD) and just a swimming short is the top for me!
 
I think we can convince you that a drysuit is better. Even in the warmer waters of Orkney, a weeks diving the High Sea's Fleet in April will convince you that a drysuit is better choice than a wetsuit. And that's with only two dives a day!
Warmer waters of Orkney? Sounds to me like vastly different reference points from what I’m used to.

Most of my dives are done with swim shorts and a rash guard. In the “colder” months, I’ll grab my 2mm wetsuit for most dives. If it’s “really cold” I’ll add another 1mm rashguard to the mix. That works the majority of the year where I live. If those aren’t enough, I just assume that the water surface is frozen.
 
Well, here we are in the field of personal preferences.
My preference is to dive in water so warm that no suit at all is needed, such as it happens at Maldives, or in some spots here in the Mediterranean where hot water is released by vulcanic activity (you know, those small islands around Sicily, such as Vulcano, Panarea, etc.).
Diving wearing minimal equipment (possibly even no BCD) and just a swimming short is the top for me!
well, for diving deep in Greece, I like a dry suit. Of course, I'm a wimp when it comes to temperature. I love heat. However, as I currently live in Seattle, a dry suit (AND heated vest AND K-01 hood) are a must for me. If I had to choose between a dry suit and a dive computer, dry suit wins every time. I can dive tables until I have more money for a proper DC. If I'm cold, I'm miserable, and then diving makes no sense. That's why when I resume teaching, my students will be in dry suits (in the past, those that were in dry suits enjoyed open water far more than those in wetsuits with one exception).

But they'll both have Shearwaters too! :wink:
 
His choice really. I decided that even though I mostly do recreational diving to get the Shearwater Perdix for several reasons.
I like the display and the fact I can have things setup how I wanted. I wanted a DC that I could adjust GF and other settings. I like the fact I can change the battery easily and the fact I only need to push two large buttons if I want to get into a menu.


My budget was to buy what I wanted not what others think I should spend on my gear. There is a lot of good second hand gear out there as well for those wanting a decent DC. Shearwaters seem to get snapped up very quickly and maintain a good resale value.

the OP got a DC he can use for now. I do not consider the Perdix as a fancy piece of kit but it certainly does what I want for my diving.
.

I agree with you. I dive with a Perdix. I don’t consider it a designer toy but an excellent tool.
 
@Dan

what you mean by

I started with SUUNTO D4 and now use it as a backup DC. I had to set it to RGBM 50% to make it closer to Buhlmann ZH-L16c GF’s 40/85 set on my Teric.

I have suunto vyper novo which have identical software just case is different ; so what mean '' I had to set it to RGBM 50% '' because I haven't see any such settings

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
@Dan

what you mean by



I have suunto vyper novo which have identical software just case is different ; so what mean '' I had to set it to RGBM 50% '' because I haven't see any such settings

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What I mean by that is SUUNTO algorithm uses Residual Gradient Bubble Model (RGBM), which is their proprietary algorithm, and D4 has 2 settings. 100% (very conservative) and 50% (half conservative). When I set it to 100% conservative and got into unintended DECO situation (staying too long at depth mesmerizing on the big mama 60ft whaleshark at 132ft depth) I went into 6 minute DECO, while my Shearwater Teric was only at 2 minutes with Bhulmann ZH-LT6c GF 40/85 (medium conservative), which is what I’m more comfortable with. I ended up staying at DECO ceiling of 10-15 ft depth for 6 minutes to clear my D4 DECO obligation to keep it from locking me out (Err display & shutdown for 48 hours), while Teric only required 2 minutes. I ended up running out of gas from my AL80 tank and breathed out of my Spare Air (3cft pony bottle) to clear that DECO + 3 minutes of safety stop (which I could skip and do CESA had the Spare Air also emptied, thank goodness it didn’t). With RGBM 50%, the D4 dive profile becomes more or less the same as that of Teric set at GF 40/85, i.e., 2 minute DECO.

To set to RGBM 50%, on D4, I had to go to dive mode setting and go to RGBM, by press & hold the DOWN (bottom left) button and toggle to RGBM by pressing the UP (bottom right) button several times (the display would scroll from”Depth Alarm”, “Dive Time Alarm”, “Personal Altitude”, “Sample Rate”, “Deepstop”, “RGBM”, “Units” and back to “Depth Alarm”). Once you are at RGBM, press SELECT (top left) button to get to the next RGBM setting. D4 has 2 option, 100% and 50%. If you are at 100%, press the UP button would change it to 50%.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom