DIR compliant regulator?
- Thread starter ejones56
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Query -- to be "truly DIR compliant" must a 2nd stage have a cover that is removable without the use of special tools?
Bah! You aren't realistically going to be taking apart regs with blue drygloves on anyway. Its a nice plus for barehanded cave diving with lots of stages that <could> get goobers in them (I don't have enough crawling experience to have dealt with this myself, but its nice to have options). Key is "nice to have" vs. "required". That said almost all regs have removable covers if they aren't cranked on too tight by a shop trying to protect you from yourself.
Unbalanced pistons are poor choices due to hose routing but otherwise almost any reg is fine nowadays, this "compliant" biz is much ado about not much.
Docc
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DIR Equipment Configuration (from the GUE website)
A good SCUBA equipment configuration should allow for the addition of items necessary to perform a specific dive without interfering with or changing the existing configuration. Diving with the same configuration not only helps solve problems, it prevents them.
Following is a list of equipment as that is of prime consideration:
1. Mask: Low Volume mask reduces drag and requires less effort to clear it of water.
2. Primary Regulator: Quality regulator that will be passed to an out-of-air diver.
3. Short Hose: Should be long enough to breathe comfortably, but not long enough to bow and create drag.
4. Back-Up Regulator: Quality regulator that a diver will use as a reserve either in the event of a failure or in an air-sharing episode.
5. Long Hose: Optional in shallow, open water diving, but mandatory in deeper or overhead diving; the long hose simplifies air sharing. When used, the long hose, along with the primary regulator, should ALWAYS be placed on the diver's right post.
6. Back-Up Lights: Tucked away to reduce drag but still allow for easy one-hand removal.
7. Goodman Handle Light Head: Allows for hands-free diving while allowing the diver to easily direct the focused light beam.
8. Thermal Suit: Appropriate to keep diver alert and comfortable.
9. Crotch Strap: Allows for custom fit, and supports two D-rings: one works as a scooter attachment point; (divers should not hang equipment here as it would hang too low); and one further up, closer to the back plate, which works for towing additional gear. The crotch strap also holds the BC in position and prevents the BC from floating up away from the body.
10. Hood: Where necessary to keep diver alert and comfortable.
11. Mask Strap: Strong strap that will resist breaking.
12. Necklace: Designed to hold the back-up regulator within easy access.
13. Corrugated Hose: Should be just long enough to allow for ear clearing and potential dry suit inflation while actuating inflator, but not so long that it drags or entangles easily.
14. Power Inflation Hose: Should be long enough for a diver to easily use his/her corrugated hose, but not long enough for it to bow or otherwise create excess drag.
15. D-rings: No more than two on the chest, positioned to reduce the drag of attached items; one hip D-ring to hold the pressure gauge.
16. Pressure Gauge Hose: Custom hose allows a diver to easily read the gauge after unclipping, but does not bow or dangle, thus avoiding excess drag.
17. Pressure Gauge: Quality brass gauge should be easy to read and reliable.
18. Knife: Waist-mounted in front, near the center of the diver's body, for easy access.
19. Pockets: Hip-mounted to reduce drag; these pockets are ideal for storing slates, decompression tables, small guideline spools or other necessary equipment.
A good SCUBA equipment configuration should allow for the addition of items necessary to perform a specific dive without interfering with or changing the existing configuration. Diving with the same configuration not only helps solve problems, it prevents them.
Following is a list of equipment as that is of prime consideration:
1. Mask: Low Volume mask reduces drag and requires less effort to clear it of water.
2. Primary Regulator: Quality regulator that will be passed to an out-of-air diver.
3. Short Hose: Should be long enough to breathe comfortably, but not long enough to bow and create drag.
4. Back-Up Regulator: Quality regulator that a diver will use as a reserve either in the event of a failure or in an air-sharing episode.
5. Long Hose: Optional in shallow, open water diving, but mandatory in deeper or overhead diving; the long hose simplifies air sharing. When used, the long hose, along with the primary regulator, should ALWAYS be placed on the diver's right post.
6. Back-Up Lights: Tucked away to reduce drag but still allow for easy one-hand removal.
7. Goodman Handle Light Head: Allows for hands-free diving while allowing the diver to easily direct the focused light beam.
8. Thermal Suit: Appropriate to keep diver alert and comfortable.
9. Crotch Strap: Allows for custom fit, and supports two D-rings: one works as a scooter attachment point; (divers should not hang equipment here as it would hang too low); and one further up, closer to the back plate, which works for towing additional gear. The crotch strap also holds the BC in position and prevents the BC from floating up away from the body.
10. Hood: Where necessary to keep diver alert and comfortable.
11. Mask Strap: Strong strap that will resist breaking.
12. Necklace: Designed to hold the back-up regulator within easy access.
13. Corrugated Hose: Should be just long enough to allow for ear clearing and potential dry suit inflation while actuating inflator, but not so long that it drags or entangles easily.
14. Power Inflation Hose: Should be long enough for a diver to easily use his/her corrugated hose, but not long enough for it to bow or otherwise create excess drag.
15. D-rings: No more than two on the chest, positioned to reduce the drag of attached items; one hip D-ring to hold the pressure gauge.
16. Pressure Gauge Hose: Custom hose allows a diver to easily read the gauge after unclipping, but does not bow or dangle, thus avoiding excess drag.
17. Pressure Gauge: Quality brass gauge should be easy to read and reliable.
18. Knife: Waist-mounted in front, near the center of the diver's body, for easy access.
19. Pockets: Hip-mounted to reduce drag; these pockets are ideal for storing slates, decompression tables, small guideline spools or other necessary equipment.
DIR-Atlanta
Contributor
Just out of curiousity, what is wrong with yellow?
Easily confused with the green O2 bottle poodle jackets. C'mon. You know this. Stop trolling.
You catch crap from DIR-wannabe's and are then pulled into conversations that tend to go nowhere. Plus, its a rule 6 violation.
DIR-Atlanta
Contributor
Personally, I try not to let the wanna-bes bother me too much. If someone has a question about something relating to DIR, then I answer it to the best of my ability. If it becomes clear that they are not interested in learning anything and just want to mess with me, I usually let them speak their piece and then I move on. As for Rule 6, I normally try to let my diving do all the talking there.You catch crap from DIR-wannabe's and are then pulled into conversations that tend to go nowhere. Plus, its a rule 6 violation.
Blackwood
Contributor
ligersandtions
Contributor
I didn't want a yellow back-up because I didn't want to get in a situation where a well-trained, good-intentioned, recreational diver came up to me in an OOG situation and grabbed for my yellow octo....with it being around my neck and them yanking on it, I'm likely to get upset.
With the black, it's stealth....they'll never see it and go straight for what's in my mouth
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