Dead DR HP50, time for upgrade. Help to decide

[grantctobin]

Unit is a Pelagian DCCCR, without the their x-plate, using the metalsub attached instead with either al19 or al30 onboard, depends on the dive.

Bailout bottle's are currently 2*al40, but expect this to grow to 2*al80, possibly plus a al40 on a leash. I don't see myself doing past that.

I’d put it on your belt. It’s only a real pain there when you’re very slim and using 8” cylinders or grinding through tight restrictions. With AL40s, you might not even have to move the battery forward of your normal spot.

 

[stuartv]

I recently got the LD-40 with the Tall canister and the UWLD heat controller as well. With both caps on, it is pretty tall.

I have dived it in BM doubles, carrying 3 deco cylinders (2 x AL80 + 1 x AL40). And I have dived it with my rEvo CCR, while carrying 2 x AL80.

In BM doubles, I used the standard belt loop on the canister to put the can on my right side, back against the BP as far as it would go. I didn't notice it at all in the water. The weight of it made getting into my rig, while it was on a boat bench only slightly more challenging. The canister is tall but it's pretty slim. Both my caps are sidemount glands, so on my waist belt, I orient the can with the cord caps at the top and facing forward.

With my rEvo, I have a fixation (they call it that - it's a clip/bracket that you attach to, in this case, the canister using hose clamps) that mounts on the canister and then it just clips right onto the side of the casing of the rEvo. On the rEvo, the can is mounted with the cord caps down and facing forward. I had 1 80 on the left and 1 on the right (same side as the can). I could not even tell it was there.

I did a 90-minute run on Saturday with my light on High and my heat on 1 during the dive and I think I set it to 4 during the 10 and 20 foot stops of deco. The battery indicator was yellow when I got out, which I believe means that it was somewhere in the middle 1/3 of it's capacity left.

I did the math before and I believe the Tall canister would give me 2 hours of total run/burntime with the light on High and the heat on 5 (of 5 - wearing a 42 watt heated shirt).

I don't know if any of that helps, since it's not sidemount or a Pelagian.

Doing the math on what you posted. I think the LD-40 is to be calculated based on consuming 32W. So, a 54W-Hr can would only give you 1.7 hours of burn time on High. The 107W-Hr can would give you 3.3 hours. The 160 would give you 5 hours.

Personally, I think having a 50% margin is a good idea on a primary light. Maybe even a 100% margin (i.e. double what you think you will actually use). So, if you're doing a dive up to 2 hours, you'd want 3 hours (or more) of capacity. That means at least the 107W-Hr.

But, if you might need to dive for 2-3 days without a charge, well then, there is no choice but to get the Tall (160 W-Hr). And still maybe dive with it on Medium, not High.

I haven't used it with the same configs you will, but the slimness of it has made it very unobtrusive for me. I'd say to buy once, cry once.

And then, if you ever dive in a drysuit with any kind of undergarment more than just a rash guard, think about replacing that undergarment with a heated shirt. Heat on deco is The Bomb!!

 

[stuartv]

Hi all

My DR HP50 died last weekend. The led actually blew up. Took it apart and the led is cracked and missing the piece in the center.
I have ordered a new led and board to solder in but even if it works again, I wouldn't trust it as my primary, thus it will be relegated to be a backup (if it works again).

I think I have decided on a new UWLD LD40 as a new primary light, but I can't decide between the small or the tall battery canister.

I won't need the extra burn time of the tall, but then again, I guess it wouldn't hurt.

If anyone has experience with both of these canisters. How much of a difference is there between them?
Will I get annoyed by the extra bulk of the tall one or should I just go for it (buy once, cry once)?

I am only diving warm water so will not have to connect any heater.
My dives (currently) doesn't go over 1,5-2 hours (including deco) so the burn time of the small should be plenty.
But then again, the cost difference between them isn't significant so...

I'm thorn, please help me decide.

On a tangent... Did you happen to contact DR about what it would cost to have them fix your HP50?

I realize it might be too far for you to want to mail it - especially if you are handy enough to fix it yourself (which it sounds like you are). I'm just curious how they would handle that. I considered buying an HP50 and then, later, an EX35 a while back. I emailed them at the time and asked how much it would cost to have it repaired if my light blew the LED after it was out of warranty and they never answered me. Their warranty is only 1 year and they overdrive their LED emitters to put out more light than what Cree shows in their specs, so I was always worried that one might burn out more quickly than I generally expect from an LED light. Now it sounds like you have the exact problem I was concerned about.

Was there something that happened to cause your HP50 to die? Or was it just normal, random expiration of an electronic device?

 

[Traveling nomad]

I recently got the LD-40 with the Tall canister and the UWLD heat controller as well. With both caps on, it is pretty tall.

I have dived it in BM doubles, carrying 3 deco cylinders (2 x AL80 + 1 x AL40). And I have dived it with my rEvo CCR, while carrying 2 x AL80.

In BM doubles, I used the standard belt loop on the canister to put the can on my right side, back against the BP as far as it would go. I didn't notice it at all in the water. The weight of it made getting into my rig, while it was on a boat bench only slightly more challenging. The canister is tall but it's pretty slim. Both my caps are sidemount glands, so on my waist belt, I orient the can with the cord caps at the top and facing forward.

With my rEvo, I have a fixation (they call it that - it's a clip/bracket that you attach to, in this case, the canister using hose clamps) that mounts on the canister and then it just clips right onto the side of the casing of the rEvo. On the rEvo, the can is mounted with the cord caps down and facing forward. I had 1 80 on the left and 1 on the right (same side as the can). I could not even tell it was there.

I did a 90-minute run on Saturday with my light on High and my heat on 1 during the dive and I think I set it to 4 during the 10 and 20 foot stops of deco. The battery indicator was yellow when I got out, which I believe means that it was somewhere in the middle 1/3 of it's capacity left.

I did the math before and I believe the Tall canister would give me 2 hours of total run/burntime with the light on High and the heat on 5 (of 5 - wearing a 42 watt heated shirt).

I don't know if any of that helps, since it's not sidemount or a Pelagian.

Doing the math on what you posted. I think the LD-40 is to be calculated based on consuming 32W. So, a 54W-Hr can would only give you 1.7 hours of burn time on High. The 107W-Hr can would give you 3.3 hours. The 160 would give you 5 hours.

Personally, I think having a 50% margin is a good idea on a primary light. Maybe even a 100% margin (i.e. double what you think you will actually use). So, if you're doing a dive up to 2 hours, you'd want 3 hours (or more) of capacity. That means at least the 107W-Hr.

But, if you might need to dive for 2-3 days without a charge, well then, there is no choice but to get the Tall (160 W-Hr). And still maybe dive with it on Medium, not High.

I haven't used it with the same configs you will, but the slimness of it has made it very unobtrusive for me. I'd say to buy once, cry once.

And then, if you ever dive in a drysuit with any kind of undergarment more than just a rash guard, think about replacing that undergarment with a heated shirt. Heat on deco is The Bomb!!

I ended up getting the 107W-hr can, haven't figured out where and how to mount it yet.