That's the first half. That seals the valve but doesn't tell you cracking effort. You can check that in a bowl of water, holding the diaphragm parallel to the water and immersing it slowly until it begins to hiss. Here's a short except from a recent seminar, taken wholly out of context, that sort of shows how to do it...Fine tuning without a Magnehelic
Would it be ok to press down the purge flap and turn allen bolt counter clockwise till it starts leaking air when I pressurize the stages?
Lets say I turn it clockwise till it stop leaking - would that be the same while diving?
Asking because plunging water in water and pressure may have an impact
The distance from the diaphragm disc to the surface is your cracking effort of inches of water, and it should be 1.2-1.4" for the D420. It doesn't tolerate being tuned hot because the diaphragm is lower on the water than standard case designs. That means it breathes poorly out of the water, but that all goes away when submerged.
And all this depends upon the factory having left a tiny gap between the back of the diaphragm and the lever. Otherwise there's a physical linkage all the way from the "allen bolt" on top, through the poppet, onto the lever and against the diaphragm. When that gap isn't present, increasing spring pressure with the hex fitting doesn't do anything and tuning is unstable. They only modified the service manual to reflect that requirement this year, though we've known it awhile now.
You can check that by pushing out the hinge pin holding the purge lever and removing the lever. Now you can see the diaphragm. With the reg pressurized, tap lightly on the center disc and make sure there's a half millimeter of clearance. If not, adjusting gets a little more complicated...