As Canadian I wanted to exercise my right to see Cuba before Fidel is gone and McDonallds moves in. I love Capitalism even more after seeing CUBA. It’s a shock to remember these people can’t leave or even use the Internet. Even My GPS was a no-no. We took some treats, it is thrill to pull up to a rural school and see kids excited and grateful to get a matchbox car or a bic pen, try that at home you are lucky to get a thank you if its less than a new XBox . The biggest hit was baseballs, these kids love the game but have to play with rocks wrapped in tape! We even had adults beg us for a $2 baseball. That said CUBA was wonderful. The people are so warm and friendly. They love to meet foreigners. If you’re an American you can travel from Canada or Cozumel and not get caught, even if you do it is only a fine. CUBA loves its tourists and the best of everything is saved fro them, new cars, good hotels and as good a food as anyone can get. You are royalty (odd in a communist country huh?)
First we went to an AI called Beaches in Varadero, the diving is included at this hotel but the dive boat (this the commie part) is run by the marina, and every hotel dive shop is at their mercy. If they think it is too rough nobody in Vardero is diving. Funny how the sea can be flat and it can be ‘too rough’. Castro himself is a diver, and he makes sure the dive gear is new and the dive shops well stocked, prices are fixed (ala communism) but surprisingly fair. A 5 dive package is about $100 (equipment extra). They also don’t dive Sunday.
After Varadero we took a rent a car West. I recommend this. The Lonely planet guide book suggested Maria La Gorda. WOW what a place, you drive down some back roads, few signs, rural farmland (tobacco for Cohiba cigars). Then we ran over about a thousand crabs during a one month (March) migration they make, I tried to miss the little guys but they attack your tires! Well the pigs and Vultures ate well. To get to that end of the island you must pass a military check-point (one sleepy soldier).
Suddenly your on a beautify undeveloped coast, our hotel (the ONLY one in the area) is full of divers (mostly Europeans). Everyone is here to dive (or a dive wife/husband). Only about 40 rooms here and they only take cash. The island does not like US $ anymore, it is one of the few places the Canadian dollar is the preferred currency. This is dive resort and dive they do -- 2 first class dive boats and brand new Mares gear. The reefs are PERFECT, and the staff is very careful to make sure you keep them that way. They even have a full MD check you before your dive. Also the ministry of transport checks the boat and counts the divers before every outing, at first I thought this was for safety, but I think it has more to do with being sure the boat does not make it to Cancun.
My dive master was Oswaldo, this man is amazing, a trained engineer, he even flew MIGS at one point in his life. He took very good care of us, I gave him my reef gloves because they were hard to come by. University students, who were cataloging a freshly found Spanish galleon, were exploring one dive site, right beside us. You can never see this in a high traffic dive spot. We saw all the same things you see in Cancun and the Cayman Islands (same waters) BUT think of how little damage there is due to fewer divers. If you can get to CUBA GO.