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jumsted65:Hey all,
I've been shooting a Coolpix 4300 in Fantasea CP4 pro housing for the past year, with the Epoque ES 150 DS optical slave strobe.
Got some fun shots in the Channel Islands last year. Check my website http://www.joshumsted.com and browse the galleries if you'd like to see what the camera can do.
Here in the Monterey Bay, however, where visibility is considerably less and backscatter from crud in the water is a bigger issue, I've been frustrated for the past year, having captured only a few useable images. Can't completely blame the camera as shooting in these conditions is tough for even the best u/w photographers.
I've just upgraded to dSLR, being a "real" photographer by nature, I found the Coolpix too limiting for a number of reasons. Here are some things I don't like about my Coolpix rig, and why I'm selling it:
1.) Shutter lag. 'nuff said 'bout that. Frustrates the heck outta me.
2.) Slow writing to the CF card. Couldn't say exactly how long it takes to save a full res jpeg, but it's in the 15 second range. Try saving an uncompressed TIF and, well, it's just unreasonably slow.
3.) With the Fantasea housing I have further issues. No on/off (though turning off LCD between shots helps save battery life considerably.
4.) Only 2 apertures on the Coolpix, f/2.8 and f/7.6. When using the external strobe, at least with my non-ttl strobe, it's necessary to shoot in manual mode. Having only two apertures is seriously limiting.
5.) Can't use zoom with Fantasea. There's a rubber hood in the housing which surrounds the lens. At the longest focal length, the lens binds with that hood causing the camera to lock up. Fantasea recommended removing the rubber hood. I opted not to do that and shoot at a fixed focal length, figuring the hood was there to serve a purpose, to keep extraneous light from entering where I didn't want it to enter.
6.) No control button for the camera menu. This is a BIGGIE. The main thing is that one can't get to the white balance control in the menu, meaning you have to go with automatic white balance. It's subtle, but often it's very useful to set white balance manually for given light conditions, using a white slate or other such method. All that would take is one more control button on the housing. Fantasea explained that they were trying to keep cost down. Hey man, it's just ONE MORE button. I believe one can access the camera menu on the Ikelite housing.
Don't get me wrong. The Coolpix takes awesome pics. The optics are superb for the price. The small package is convenient for diving and doesn't get in the way when clipped off to either shoulder D ring (if you have those.) I've been a loyal Nikon dude for many years. After a while, though, if you're into the photography thing, you may find yourself wanting more.
That said, my new rig is a D70s, DS 125, Ikelite iTTL housing, 28-80mm kit lens. I hope the housing ships SOON as the camera and strobe will be here tomorrow. From there, as with all things SCUBA, my credit card will probably never cool off entirely.
My rig will be for sale soon as the new housing arrives.
Best of luck,
Josh
osujamesc:I have a Coolpix 3100 and I am interested in purchasing the Fantasea CP-3 housing for it. I'm trying to figure out if I can get away without having a strobe. I'm diving in Maui now, so perhaps the water is clear enough.
What are the cheap options for strobes?
Does anyone have some example shots taken with the coolpix and a fantasea housing, but without a strobe?
Thanks,
James
robcap:Now I found out there more than one housing for it (my ignorance goes as far as that: I did not even know there were more than one).
Nikon WP CP3
Fantasea CP6
Ikelite
Fantasea is much cheaper, but I would not like to run the risk of a flood ...
Which one would you recommend (and why)?
I can elaborate a bit on why the Fantasea is less than ideal. It's true that I can't use the zoom. The lens binds up against the housing when fully extended--that is, at its minimum focal distance. Fantasea recommended removing the rubber sleeve which covers the lens inside the housing. I figured the sleeve was there for a reason so opted to leave it and not use the zoom.scubanoz:I'd go with the Nikon Case.
Everything works, Zoom and all the functions, unlike the Fanatasea cases I've read about. Why buy a Nikon camera to only use half of it with a crappy case design.
jumsted65:I can elaborate a bit on why the Fantasea is less than ideal. It's true that I can't use the zoom. The lens binds up against the housing when fully extended--that is, at its minimum focal distance. Fantasea recommended removing the rubber sleeve which covers the lens inside the housing. I figured the sleeve was there for a reason so opted to leave it and not use the zoom.
The other big complaint is that there is no control button for the menu, meaning many functions are inaccessible underwater. It would be nice, for example, to manually set white balance at depth. The Ikelite housing has a menu button. Not sure about the Nikon.
i havent had any problems with leaks, been to 110 fsw without a problem with a cp-4.robcap:Hello!
First of all, I never took any picture underwater, but ... you have to start from something.
I have aq Coolpix 4600. Now I found out there more than one housing for it (my ignorance goes as far as that: I did not even know there were more than one).
Nikon WP CP3
Fantasea CP6
Ikelite
Fantasea is much cheaper, but I would not like to run the risk of a flood ...
Which one would you recommend (and why)?
thnx
ciao