JBFG
Contributor
I am not familiar with your BCD. Is it a SM BCD or are you used a back plate and will rig it for SM by adding a butt plate?
Considering Sidemount...looking for folks in Puget Sound and info :)
- Thread starter Andrew Dawson
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OP
Andrew Dawson
Contributor
Excellent feedback, all!!
I posted an ad to see about trading my HP120s for HP100s or the like...but am considering going the AL80 route. When having those dialed in....I can take my kit anywhere and find AL80s...also not having giant tanks avoids having long deco obligations as I will not be slinging deco bottles any time soon.
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Now, I have an Uwatec Smart Tec with a transmitter....so to do SM with this computer, or any computer...you just use it as is without a transmitter [no air integration] right? I am planning on using SPGs on 6" to 9" hoses.
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@racanichou, it is a modular BC system [soft backpack that accepts a metal BP in it] with a wing. This wing has attachments on the bottom of the wing [horseshoe shape] that prevents the "taco" effect. I will probably bungee the top of the wing at this point
I also have an old Die Rite Transpac II.
@Billy Northrup good advice! Most of our shore diving in Puget Sound has little wave action...in over 600 dives in this area I have only had decent wave action twice. Pretty lucky for sure!
I posted an ad to see about trading my HP120s for HP100s or the like...but am considering going the AL80 route. When having those dialed in....I can take my kit anywhere and find AL80s...also not having giant tanks avoids having long deco obligations as I will not be slinging deco bottles any time soon.
*
Now, I have an Uwatec Smart Tec with a transmitter....so to do SM with this computer, or any computer...you just use it as is without a transmitter [no air integration] right? I am planning on using SPGs on 6" to 9" hoses.
*
@racanichou, it is a modular BC system [soft backpack that accepts a metal BP in it] with a wing. This wing has attachments on the bottom of the wing [horseshoe shape] that prevents the "taco" effect. I will probably bungee the top of the wing at this point
I also have an old Die Rite Transpac II.
@Billy Northrup good advice! Most of our shore diving in Puget Sound has little wave action...in over 600 dives in this area I have only had decent wave action twice. Pretty lucky for sure!
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@rjack321 great info, thank you!! Got any pics of how you connect your tank bands to your harness? Or your rig as a whole?.
I'm diving a sidewinder CCR on top of my SM system but I can take that off so you can see how the Hollis SMS75 is organized if I were to dive it as an OC system again. I'll see about take a couple pics for you tonight.
The IQ has a ton of padding and some less than optimal features (dangly crap galore) but you can probably make it work. I use that DR buttplate to SM my BO on my backmount CCR, its harder to clip into than the square version but gets the cylinder tails higher in the process. What neck bungies are you using?
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Andrew Dawson
Contributor
What about this config for open water:
SandyRobinson
Contributor
Couple of observations:
1. You may get better use out of steel 85s than Al 80s. You will need less or zero weight, and the tanks will not float (Worthingtons less than Fabers) as you use air. I use Faber 95s and Worthington 85s and need no weight but I am diving in fresh water and not the ocean. With al80s, I use 12 to 15 pounds diving wet or dry.
2. I have always seen the drysuit hose on the right tank and the inflator hose in the left tank. Seems like if the inflator hose is on the left tank, it will attach easier to the inflator, assuming it is run on your left side.
3. When it is all said and done, make sure your tanks are parallel to your side and snug to your body - so you may have to adjust clips and bungies.
4. Just saw your pressure hose comment. I use to run my pressure gauges down the side of my tank and found that 9" hoses worked best. My preference now is for them to be against my chest/shoulder so I use 6" hoses. Also if you do not wrap your hoses around your neck, you may want the gauges running down your tank to reduce clutter on your chest. Just do what is best for you. Would not be surprised if you start in one configuration and then change a few times.
I read somewhere that if you ask 10 people advice regarding side mount that you will get 11 answers so good luck!
1. You may get better use out of steel 85s than Al 80s. You will need less or zero weight, and the tanks will not float (Worthingtons less than Fabers) as you use air. I use Faber 95s and Worthington 85s and need no weight but I am diving in fresh water and not the ocean. With al80s, I use 12 to 15 pounds diving wet or dry.
2. I have always seen the drysuit hose on the right tank and the inflator hose in the left tank. Seems like if the inflator hose is on the left tank, it will attach easier to the inflator, assuming it is run on your left side.
3. When it is all said and done, make sure your tanks are parallel to your side and snug to your body - so you may have to adjust clips and bungies.
4. Just saw your pressure hose comment. I use to run my pressure gauges down the side of my tank and found that 9" hoses worked best. My preference now is for them to be against my chest/shoulder so I use 6" hoses. Also if you do not wrap your hoses around your neck, you may want the gauges running down your tank to reduce clutter on your chest. Just do what is best for you. Would not be surprised if you start in one configuration and then change a few times.
I read somewhere that if you ask 10 people advice regarding side mount that you will get 11 answers so good luck!
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Andrew Dawson
Contributor
I got the idea to run AL80s as if I dive them regularly....then on travel trips AL80s are the easiest to find, usually. Plus, I can get into plenty of deco with 160cf of gas...doing recreational dives to 130fsw...so why would I need bigger tanks if I don't want long deco obligations?
Plus, AL80s are cheap...tho...I'm thinking about HP100s might be a good option.
@carobsinov are you talking LP 85s and 95s? Those seem as big/bulky as HP120s...maybe not as long but just as large to deal with...I want easy, low stress, redundancy, etc...
I'm sure I will be playing with my setup a lot and be carrying some lead with the AL80s. I am interested in tanks that are neutral or slightly neg when near empty to reduce the lead tho...
Plus, AL80s are cheap...tho...I'm thinking about HP100s might be a good option.
@carobsinov are you talking LP 85s and 95s? Those seem as big/bulky as HP120s...maybe not as long but just as large to deal with...I want easy, low stress, redundancy, etc...
I'm sure I will be playing with my setup a lot and be carrying some lead with the AL80s. I am interested in tanks that are neutral or slightly neg when near empty to reduce the lead tho...
SandyRobinson
Contributor
Andrew, I dive with steels because they are less buoyant when empty (1000 to 1200psi for me) and will not float up from the bottom. For me, it is using 0 vs 12 pounds albeit my tanks are heavier Both of my sets are LP tanks. Unless you get a cave fill (3500+ psi) on the 85s, you will only have 4 to 5 cf more than an AL80.
For comparison and from a 1-5-19 post in the tank and valve forum by tmassey,
Tank Diameter Length Weight Buoyancy empty Weight of my tanks full today
Luxfer 80 7.25. 26. 31. +4.4 40.2 @ 3000 psi
Worth. 85 7.25. 25 37. -.7 47.7 @ 3600 psi
Faber 95. 8. 24. 37. +1.7 52.9 @ 3600 psi
Faber 85. 7. 26. 31. +2.3
I bought the Worthington 85s (not made anymore) because of the heavier buoyancy when close to empty compared to the Faber. Based on the above, I am guessing that a Faber 85 filled to 2400 to 2640 would weigh 42 pounds.
If it helps, when I dove AL 80s with a DiveRite Nomad, I had a 2 pound weight on each shoulder and (I think??) a 3 pound weight on each tank threaded through the camband ( I have since switched to hose clamps though)
Do you have the chance to rent different tanks to dive with? Might to nice to try the 80s, 85s, and hp100s. There is probably no one right answer - just what is best for you. Good luck.
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My right side cylinder rigged and laying in position as it attaches to my SMS75. The tank is a hp130, notice that the valve to lower attachment point matches the distance between the neck bungie and the buttplate rail.
The pink clip on the neck is a safety in case the neck bungie comes off or breaks the tank won't hang upside down.
The pink clip on the neck is a safety in case the neck bungie comes off or breaks the tank won't hang upside down.
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Its not a SM BC. I cant quite visualize how the wing will work since its a backmount wing... Or how the neck bungies will be done. I suspect its going to take quite a bit of effort to get close to decent tank, body, and wing position
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Why? What's the objective?
40" on the left side is way too long and it'll bow out over your right shoulder.
40" on the right is too short UNLESS you run it direct from your right armpit to a 2nd stage swivel.
Don't reinvent the wheel here. A 28" hose on the left with a 90deg 2nd stage elbow. 5ft or 7ft hose on the right looping around your neck to a breakaway clip. 12" BC whips on both sides for wing (left side) and drysuit (right side)
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