Cleaning tank rust

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Interesting. The hydro test shops I have dealt with that don't specialize in scuba almost universally will remove the valve but not reinstall it, so they cannot put any pressure in it.

The explanation I have gotten from them for why this is so is that "We are a tank-testing not a scuba repair facility. If we were to reinstall the valve, that would imply that we are certifying that the tank and valve are ready to be put right back into service, something we cannot safely say as we are neither trained nor equipped to service scuba valves."

Most of them do not have a breathing-air fill station either. so they couldn't put even token pressure in the tank even if they wanted to.

I have never used a tank testing facility, in Britain or Belize, that does not dry the tanks fully and put 20-30 bar of air in. Most of the people I know would reject a tank returned in any other state.
 
Must be something to do with liability in the US. They wouldn't be able to operate like that in the UK or Belize.

If they don't have a compressor in-house, how can they do hydros?
 
Must be something to do with liability in the US. They wouldn't be able to operate like that in the UK or Belize.

If they don't have a compressor in-house, how can they do hydros?


Hydro test is done with hydraulic pressure, specifically water pressure. Air is nowhere near the tank.

The hydro test machines I have operated or seen all use low pressure air to drive the hydraulic pump, but that can easily be from a non-breathing shop air type compressor since this air doesn’t get anywhere near the tank.

In dive shops it is convenient to use the available air with a regulator (to drive the hydraulic pump), but in a pure hydro shop they just have “shop air” from a low pressure compressor (about 90 psi). The same air they use for all their pneumatic tools, not breathing air. I would never put shop air in any tank used for breathing.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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