chrome plating flaking off after 1 session in the pool?

[Wookie]

I was always told that the most important part of the plating operation is the surface preparation. If the chrome is flaking off it did adhere properly to the base metal. The most likely culprit was improper preparation or using old or contaminated chemicals.

I am not an expert in metallurgy, but would assume the surface prep for different metals is different. In other words a company would use different methods and chemicals to prepare a brass surface for plating as opposed to steel or in your case titanium. So your experience is not directly comparable to people owning the non-titanium models.

It was a joke. Titanium aren't chrome plated.

 

[CanuckHorn]

If it started immediately there is a possibility that that plating was not done right during mfg. What part of the reg is flaking (i.e. the body, the turret, both?).

The flaking is taking place by the Yoke filter/retainer - the part that comes in contact with the tank valve. I have had to pick flakes out of the Yoke filter a couple of times, and clean flakes from the bottom of the dust cap. I should have immediately stopped using the regulator and reported it, but I stupidly thought this might be normal and I just needed to clean the Yoke filter periodically. After the last set of flakes I thought this cannot be normal, and thanks to this board I learned I was right.

 

[Scared Silly]

The flaking is taking place by the Yoke filter/retainer - the part that comes in contact with the tank valve. I have had to pick flakes out of the Yoke filter a couple of times, and clean flakes from the bottom of the dust cap. I should have immediately stopped using the regulator and reported it, but I stupidly thought this might be normal and I just needed to clean the Yoke filter periodically. After the last set of flakes I thought this cannot be normal, and thanks to this board I learned I was right.

So that sounds like one particular part. I would contact AA, get a RMA, and send it to them for inspection and replacement. You will probably need to supply the proof of purchase so to be covered by warranty.

 

[abnfrog]

@lowviz . actually brass doesn't get a copper plate as nickel adheres to brass just fine , copper strike (usually copper cyanide )is usually done on zinc diecast so the nickel can adhere ... copper is also used in mild steel for corrosion protection ...(though nobody would be stupid enough to make a reg from mild steel )

 

[lowviz]

@lowviz . actually brass doesn't get a copper plate ...//...

I wasn't clear enough in my post. I should have mentioned the possibility of a pure nickel strike over the brass. Those flakes looked AWFULLY thin. I would love to know what they mic at.

In my limited experience with plating, you can go wrong with basic material, surface prep, activation, strike layer, and final single or multi-stage coating chemistry and current density. Pretty much why nobody is jumping up and down saying that the problem is clearly due to this or that.

All brass is not the same, this I know from hard experience:

What Causes Plating to Flake or Loose Adhesion? A quote from this is given below.

"a. Provide the Exact Alloy of the Basis Material on all Paperwork including RFQs: The specific alloy of a product can make a world of difference to the plater. For example 260 brass has no lead whereas 360 brass can contain up to 5% lead. Both brasses are very common in usage but each requires a very distinct pretreatment system to ensure proper activation. It is critical to provide the specific alloy UNS to the plater to ensure the parts are pretreated accordingly."

The strike that I had in mind is this wonderful and simple discovery: What is a Wood's nickel strike? I then placed the part into a known plating solution and enjoyed a quality end result.

 

[ams511]

It was a joke. Titanium aren't chrome plated.

I did not think that they were but when looking at the Atomic website it appears that they are. The magic of Photoshop.

 

[abnfrog]

lowviz , your right of course its all about prep , but also there is not always a strike you can reverse(cathodic and anodic ) polarity depending on what you do to etch the surface or just mechanically polish the surface as a prep , I would think it should be about 3 microns (again what the mfg wants ) but the bottom line here is that this is A MFG PROBLEM and of course other regs on that plating rack will have the same problem . you can plate titanium (I know I have ) but it doesn't make sense they are just highly polished .........years ago I stripped (off the chrome ) on a set of 930 dacors and highly polished them people went nuts over them , which prompted me to plate a set of regs steel 72 and valve in 24 kt gold .....we ended of raffling in it off for charity in the early 80s the guy who got it was going to dive it he said , I told him the gold was VERY soft and it wont last a season ....he got 2

 

[lowviz]

...//... but the bottom line here is that this is A MFG PROBLEM and of course other regs on that plating rack will have the same problem ...

I'm pretty sure that we all agree on that. But really, it is Atomics, rock solid. Wouldn't it be amazing if they fessed up to what went wrong? Everybody gets one pass, mistakes happen. It is how you deal with your F/U's that counts. Somebody should PM them and invite a response.

...//... which prompted me to plate a set of regs steel 72 and valve in 24 kt gold .....we ended of raffling in it off for charity in the early 80s the guy who got it was going to dive it he said , I told him the gold was VERY soft and it wont last a season ....he got 2

As far as I know, you can only do that in a potassium cyanide bath. Hmmmmm...

 

[abnfrog]

that fixes OTHER problems ..........lol

 

[CanuckHorn]

I am experiencing the same problem with an Atomic M1. The regulator is little over a year old and the flaking began almost immediately, and has not stopped. I have reached out to my LDS and Atomic. I am hoping I can swap out some of the chrome plated parts for stainless steel.

I have not heard from Atomic - sent them an email over the weekend and it is now Wednesday. Took the reg to my LDS and learned several things. The plating should be really tough. The guy who worked on my reg has a similar Atomic reg, and said his has a deep gash. The gash is on the outside of the Yoke nut where it does not interfere with anything, and his reg has not flaked at all. My reg flaked with no obvious impact (probably a manufacturing issue?). He recommended I not replace my plated Yoke nut for a stainless steel one - felt that having two different metals in contact with each other could lead to them seizing together (and he really felt the plated part should be fine - assuming I get a good one). They replaced the Yoke nut and filter screen for free, and are sending the bad part(s) to Atomic. Still interested to hear from Atomic, and will share what they tell me.