Interestingly, with regards to the 7 LED domes VS the 4 LED, I just noticed LetonPower have both of them plus the 15 x white LED version listed on their page. Obviously all the lumens claims are outrageous, but I wonder if there is any truth behind the relative high and lower values given between the models. I was considering ordering a 15 LED version (BB27-1S) based on the OP's original review on here, but then noticed the one I already have (BB14-7S) is listed as the highest lumen output...
cheap chinese video light review
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I turned a pro photog friend onto the C15 type "20k lumen models from the BRETT store and he loves them. He's been able to test them with some sort of high-end equipment and found that they register at right about 18k lumens (so slightly lower, but close). Color temps were spot-on as advertised - 6k.
My 16mm switches arrived today, however, after ordering these 16mm ones based on the advice in this thread, when I've measured the internal diameter on the torch with my digital calipers, it's 17.2mm, meaning the switches don't fit (they are too small), which is annoying.
I could probably grind out the bottom of the switch hole as my switches are too tall anyway, meaning I could clamp them in place with the included nut, mean's I'd have to botch the gap around the majority of the switch with JBweld and the O-oring at the top won't seal either.
**Edit**
I measured the outer thread diameter of the plastic switch I removed - 17.2mm.
I'm currently trying to grind out the switch port floor enough to allow the new Piezo switch to sit flush at the surface, my small dremmel tool is however struggling with the 1mm Aluminium
Addison Snyder
Contributor
I suggest just sticking to JBWeld or whatever marine-grade epoxy you can get your hands on. This stuff is rated to the thousands of PSI, so an O-ring would not be effective at anything if you apply the epoxy effectively. I used a Q-tip to coat the inside generously (while the wired switch was hanging out) before coating the threads on the switch and then just dropping it in. Wipe off excess, confirm there aren't any gaps (probably better to go a little overkill on this one), and then sand or clean up afterwards.
Addison Snyder
Contributor
Yeah, that is a notable lacking in a lot of the chinese lights. Having to deal with only one bolt suuucks. Luckily I haven't had major issues with it, but have also done a million preventative things. I use loctite before applying locking washers and cranking the everloving crap out of it. Genuinely surprised I haven't stripped one or two of these yet. Because these lights are mostly set-and-forget, I might consider using the good ol' JBWeld on 'em in the future.
Has anyone managed to remove the front glass? Mine flooded due to a sealing error made by myself. On visual inspection the board seems to be ok, also cleaned with alcohol, however when connecting the batteries I just get a dim glow straight away from the red and blue LEDs and the switches don't work, however there is still some water in the front of the torch where the LEDs sit - hoping it's just something shorting and I can get in to clean it.
**Edit**
The LEDs seem to work fine if I power them directly. Appears the main board is fried despite my best efforts to clean it.
**Edit**
The LEDs seem to work fine if I power them directly. Appears the main board is fried despite my best efforts to clean it.
I was wondering how to get remove the front glass too. How did you manage to do it? Is it only finger tight? I dont want to take it apart yet so I dont want to try it. Sucks to hear the board is fried. Try contacting Letonpower and negotiate a bit, they might send you a new board. I found their customer support very good when my front glass came scratched, but it probably depends how long ago you bought the light.
I found an issue (or two) with using the Piezo switches, or at least with the ones I have available. The pulse width on them only appears to be very short, almost not enough for the torch circuit to detect. I find I have to press mine really hard, sometimes several times for them to generate a pulse that is long enough (in terms of duration) for the torch to detect. I'm not sure if there's a way for me to wire something in series with the two switch wires to mitigate this?
I used these switches: Link
Off the back of the above issue, they don't have the same tactile feel as a mechanical switch. I've been looking around for a mechanical magnetic reed switch, however they don't seem to be readily available in push button form around the size needed for this application, at least not that I can find.
I used these switches: Link
Off the back of the above issue, they don't have the same tactile feel as a mechanical switch. I've been looking around for a mechanical magnetic reed switch, however they don't seem to be readily available in push button form around the size needed for this application, at least not that I can find.
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