cheap chinese video light review

[Germie]

The same lights still work. So 8 months later, same review for me. Took the lights in caves again.

 

[SwimmingFish]

Hi all, I never found this thread (although I searched for something similar) when I started my own thread, but I'm glad I found it now!
These lamps go under different brands, and aside from the model numbers the OP posted, there is at least another model in the series (same design/housing, different LEDs), they are also called

A10 -> C10 -> QH18
A11 -> C11 -> QH14-4
A15 -> C15 -> QH27
A24? -> C24 -> QH14-7

I bought 3 of the QH variants (QH18, QH27, and QH14-7), which have a slightly different design on the housing, and are cheaper than what the OP posted, these can be found after some searching for less than 40 USD, and the Qh18 (A10) I think goes for like 25 as cheapest.

They work even with 1 (!) battery, and I've had my lamps in a test run for like 3-4 hours at max setting, until the batteries were fully drained @ around 2.8-3V if I remember correctly (but the light output diminished gradually to 0).

Regarding the quad A11 lamp LEDs, someone on budgetlightforum suggested they were Cree-MKR-15W, but judging by the led price and lamp price, maybe the ETI 7070 (or any unknown Chinese variant) might be a more realistic alternative.
And the QH14-7 which the OP didn't present has a more cooler white light than the A10 or A15. Good to know if using any camera with red filters.

Anyhow, I took them diving, and they all were OK after ~20 dives, took 2 to 35 m. But I noticed the LED driver isn't of the best quality; when using it at 50%, and 25%, the lights flicker. Human eyes cannot see it, but my GoPro 7 definitely saw it. The flickering can be seen starting at 13:30 in this video:


I wonder if filming at 120fps, or even with a better camera would make this effect even more pronounced? It basically destroys the video
Have any of you noticed the same flickering with these lamps? (or any other lamps?) Has any of you tried to modify/upgrade the driver unit?

 

[1MoJo]

suddenly one button became hard to press and I decided to disassemble it and check what's up with it.
and I made this fascinating discovery:

View attachment 513118

- there is not a reed switch used but a usual mechanical button, also the electronic internals are protected with just a rubber gasket and a slim o-ring on the button, which welcomes the water inside the button and the water forms salt crystals over time, so basically the internals are protected with just a single white rubber gasket.

and second thing: the Goodman handle screw unscrewed itself during the dive today.


P.S. I'm selling A10 and A11 in Thailand, former is 3k baht (new condition), latter is 2k baht (used).
If you will decide to buy one from aliexpress - choose the A15 model.

Warning, do not buy any of these lights. I bought 4 A15's for a trip to Indonesia and THREE of them stopped working. Funny, the red and blue lights work but NOT the white video lights.

Beware.

 

[1MoJo]

Warning, do not buy any of these lights. I bought 4 A15's for a trip to Indonesia and THREE of them stopped working. Funny, the red and blue lights work but NOT the white video lights.

I want to add as well that I just removed the left switch (button) and there was no water intrusion. 3rd day on the liveaboard, maybe dive 10, the first one stopped. Dive 15 the second one stopped. Shortly afterward the 3rd. I'm frustrated because I'm out 150..I did send an email out to the seller and waiting for a reply.

 

[GJC]

Warning, do not buy any of these lights. I bought 4 A15's for a trip to Indonesia and THREE of them stopped working. Funny, the red and blue lights work but NOT the white video lights.

I want to add as well that I just removed the left switch (button) and there was no water intrusion. 3rd day on the liveaboard, maybe dive 10, the first one stopped. Dive 15 the second one stopped. Shortly afterward the 3rd. I'm frustrated because I'm out 150..I did send an email out to the seller and waiting for a reply.

You are probably using batteries with a lower CDR (continuous discharge rate) than the white light requires. The red and blue require less current.

 

[CubicalBeaver]

Has anyone had any experience with any of these COB LED variants I have seen popping up now:

'Uranusfire'
Tactical Underwater 100m LED Diving Flashlight Waterproof COB LED 10800Lumens Photography Video Fill Light Torch 4*18650 Battery

'Brett'
LED Diving Flashlight Underwater 80M 11000Lumens COB Photography Camera Tactical Flashlight Blue+RED+White LED Lanterna Torch

Only ~£30 i'm tempted to pick one up.
4 x 18650 as per the others, looks to be the same chassis just with a different led.

The LED is a COB type - can't find any information as to which one.

Im curious to see if this is more powerful / has a different beam profile to the 15 x XML-2 variants

 

[vovanx]

still old mechanical buttons I wonder why they don't want to use magnetic buttons.

 

[CubicalBeaver]

There is an interesting discussion on the other type of these lights, the 9090 version, here: 9090 LED's (6x) in dive light - what are they? | BudgetLightForum.com

 

[Addison Snyder]

suddenly one button became hard to press and I decided to disassemble it and check what's up with it.
and I made this fascinating discovery:
View attachment 513118
- there is not a reed switch used but a usual mechanical button, also the electronic internals are protected with just a rubber gasket and a slim o-ring on the button, which welcomes the water inside the button and the water forms salt crystals over time, so basically the internals are protected with just a single white rubber gasket.
.

What did you use to pull out the buttons? Does anyone know if there are superior replacements you can get out there? After about 60 dives with mine, the torch is turning off semi-consistently at about 60ft.

 

[Addison Snyder]

Opened my buttons up after 60ish dives using vise-grips on the outer round edges. The main one I use frequently had lots of nastiness inside, and corrosion on the metal plunger (probably not anything marine-grade). After cleaning it up, I pulled out the silicone part and didn't see any damage on the electronics. Lubed up the single eek O-ring and reassembled. Did the same with the red/blue button, but it was clean (I rarely if ever use it).