cheap chinese video light review

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If I were to buy this light, anyone who can give tips on the following:

- What's a good goodmann handle to replace the one that's koming with it?
- Any tips on how to secure the light to a boltsnap or something? since there's no real attachment points to the light it seems.
 
brentg - Can't comment as to the Goodman handle, mine only came with a ball.

However regarding boltsnap - I had this exact problem. As you can see in the pic in post #5 there are heatsink divots/channels above the switches. I used some narrow gauge paracord and tied a very tight loop around the light within one of these channels. If tight enough its really secure. I simply used the excess after the knot to tie a loop and a boltsnap. Also sometimes tie a hand loop for security when handheld. Can post a pic if you'd like
 
Before purchasing the 15x XML2 model I was searching around a little and found this...
Dive Light - Max Planck 6000 - Nemo Underwater Power Tools

Nemo power tools commercial commercial diving floodlight that looks suspiciously familiar...

Retail: $346... I paid £47 for a black unbranded one on ebay :yeahbaby:
maxplanck-floodlight.jpg

nemo-in-te-alps-1024x576.jpg
 
As you can see in the pic in post #5 there are heatsink divots/channels above the switches. I used some narrow gauge paracord and tied a very tight loop around the light within one of these channels. If tight enough its really secure. I simply used the excess after the knot to tie a loop and a boltsnap. Also sometimes tie a hand loop for security when handheld. Can post a pic if you'd like

Had a chance to take a photo
5LTggOR.jpg
 
You mentioned Uv and Blue lights: UV fluorescence can be seen without a filter, but blue lights are used with a yellow filter to block reflected blue light. The fluorescence you get with this blue light/yellow filter combination is often more impressive.
I bought one Chinese knock off once, worked until i took it on a dive trip, even with American bought batteries.
 
I bought one Chinese knock off once, worked until i took it on a dive trip, even with American bought batteries.

I assume it took 18650. You may have bought them here but there are none made in the states. Most are Chinese.
 
the light flooded after about 50 dives - the metallic pin in the button pinched a hole in the silicone pad (black dot at the center):

IMG_20200107_213907.jpg


but the light did not die - I've dried it and cleaned the PCB from the salt and light worked again.

If you would buy these lights then I recommend to unscrew the buttons and put an additional layer of protection on the silicone pad, e.g. a layer of electric tape or duct tape.
 
I have had a total of 3 of these lights so far.
  • The first light survived 156 dives and never gave any issues. I had to bin the light after cross threading the aluminium housing and ruining the threads on both the light head and the battery compartment
  • Second and third i bought simultaneously and used for 82 dives. After that, i took the lights down to 68m, after that dive, the buttons started to jam, 5 dives later and the switches stopped working. Cir-clips where all corroded similar to the ones the OP posted. What I did was remove the switches and filled the holes with epoxy. I then popped out the PCB and modified the wiring such that the light turns on immediately when the batteries are installed (no switch needed - and just the white LEDs). The torches can now be turned on/off by a slight twist underwater...did 33 dives this way so far with no issues (down to 52m). Can't control the power level...but they work!
For what they cost you can't really ask for much more. I treat these as disposable lights. Since I only use these lights for video, any failure doesn't really matter safety wise. I also don't have to stress when they get banged around on boats and hit by stages.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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