cheap chinese video light review

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Ok so you did take the light apart to get access to the PCB for the switches, removed the original and installed the reed then reinstalled it all? I was under the impression you did it all through the switch hole but I'm assuming that is a little too small to work with.
You do it "through" the switch hole as you need to take the two small circular PCBs out through those holes. They are connected to the big PCB with long enough ribbon cables to move them out and work on them comfortably.
 
replaced the push button mechanisms with reed switches and filled the cavity with epoxy. I designed and 3d printed a slide mechanism that activates the read switch with magnets. Dove with it twice with a max depth of 88 feet with no issues other some design issues with the 3d print mechanism. The lights sat for a couple days in my shop following a rinse down after diving. I found one had a dead reed switch after a couple days of sitting. I'm thinking it failed due shorting out on the light case. I drilled it out (along with the PCb it was soldered too. I then figured out the PCB isn't needed (yet) and I was able to solder a new switch directly to the ribbon wire. reset the switch in epoxy with some extra shielding. I think it shorted out on the light case. Seems to be working. I'm going to put another set of dives on them and if it all works out well, I'll post a build thread for them. While messing around with it all, I realized that the reed switches can be activated via magnets through the light case where the main board is. In the future, if I have to replace others, I'm going to glue the switch to the inside of the case for easy replacing instead of setting it in epoxy.
 
While messing around with it all, I realized that the reed switches can be activated via magnets through the light case where the main board is. In the future, if I have to replace others, I'm going to glue the switch to the inside of the case for easy replacing instead of setting it in epoxy.
Exactly! This is a simple alu case that has almost no effect on magnetic fields.
 
As you figured out i only took out the small button PCBs and soldered the reed relay there. Since i used clear epoxy the leds still work which is a neat bonus.

Remember that longer distance from the magnet means you will require a stronger magnet to activate the reed switch.
I use 3*5 mm (w*diameter) neodymium magnets and they impact the compass at around 30 cm distance if i remember correctly. Ordered smaller ones but they got lost in transit :(. I was planning to try to use smaller magnets closer to the reed switches to minimize the risk of interfering with the compass.
My reed relays are approx 3 mm below the epoxysurface.

I dive in murky waters (1-2 m visibility is normal) so i really need the compass to be reliable and precise.

To clarify for storage and transport i strongly recommend to unscrew the tailcap slightly to minimize the risk of activating the lamp accidentally and burning out the leds...
 
I solded the first switch to the PCB and when I was drilling out the epoxy whe if failed, I drilled into it. From there I messed around with the ribbon cable and found I could solder the switch directly to two of the leads on the cable. I will see if it holds up. If it doesn't, I will abandon the switch in epoxy and mounted another one inside of the case.
 
so, what's the consensus on which of these Chinese lights are ok to take a gamble on? Few of the initial aliexpress links don't work anymore, so would be really helpful for new entrants to this thread if someone can post some recommendations and links - thanks in advance
 
well you pay your money and you take your chances - this one i bought on ali expresss its ridiculously cheap( US$30) but ive had it down below 120m and I had a second more expensive one that flooded- the main issue for me is if you doing a deep cave dive ( or no light areas) and your cheap chinese lights all go pop your in trouble so id say get some depth rated primaries in your stock
 

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