That was Addison lol, he used JB weld. Wonder how it held up, hope for an update! I just got one of these lights and I'm also trying to think of a better switch design. Also planning on replacing the driver with one thats constant current.
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It "should" be the same threads as the one Addison used. I'm 99% certain. All these lights use same switch.
About the LED's, they are all knockoff's. Cree doesn't make a XHP-90 and the 10-XM-L2's in mine arent genuine. That being said they still might ok quality, I haven't done testing yet.
I wish I could buy one of these lights without the threaded hole and the switch. Measure the thread diameter and pitch of the piezo switch, then drill and tap it myself. But that will never happen because how these lights are mass produced. There's a bunch of smart people on this forum, hopefully someone can think of a *simpler* solution!
I recommend LetonPower on Aliexpress. They have the XHP90 version. They answered all my questions super fast. I also had a light that came with small cosmetic damage and they sent me a new one free, didnt even pay shipping.
I asked a person about that on a flashlight forum about that. It would need to have the XML footprint, without taking it apart not sure if it does. I'm also not sure it's worth the added effort and cost. In my opinion, as long as the knockoffs are reliable I think they replicate the Cree well enough.
What I really want is a constant brightness driver. There are AMC7135 constant current drivers that can deliver 12 amps. Two XHP50's on two copper MCPCB's running at 3V 6 Amps each would produce 4500+ lumens. Driver costs $15, LED's about $5 each. But it's not worth it if the switch doesn't hold up.
They didnt scam you, you're supposed to use button top 18650's with these lights. They are longer than the flat tops you're using. All the big shops mention this in the product description, sometimes they call them pointed batteries.
Addison Snyder
Contributor
cheap chinese video light review
In the meantime (because I'm struggling to find second hand strobes), I'll go without strobes For what it's worth, SeaFrogs SF-01 (about $360 on Aliexpress) seems to be working mostly as advertised.
The good one I still have (ordered in May '20)
Dang, did you dispute and get your money back?
Those piezo switches are awesome. I dont trust the ones on Aliexpress but onpow's are rated IP69K. I'll measure the threads and see if I can find one that matches.
EDIT: Need to buy a better pair of tweezers to get the switch off lol. So at the moment unable to measure the threads. Hopefully it's a common metric size
, maybe something like this could work. The o ring could be changed to the right size.Attachments
the_dragon_no1
Contributor
Addison Snyder
Contributor
Yeah, I gave em a try. Threads fit, but the head/o-ring were big in a way where it simply could not fully press into a single flat surface on my particular lights. Otherwise they seemed of higher quality than the stock ones, but still the same design. For that reason I am a strong believer in "welding" in a piezo switch rather than trust that for life. The welded in piezo switch is a permanent fix. It's hard for me to imagine it failing. The design is just so overkill for 300ft of pressure, which translates to a measly 150psi. Most of the metrics used for JBWeld are in the thousands of psi. Same with the piezo switch which is rated for freakin pressure washing environments.
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