What kind of charger do you use. We use (for both video and stills) MAHA world chargers, 4 batteries at a time. They are 100-240 v, 50-60 Hz and they have been charging rechargeable batteries since 2000 or so. I don't think your experience warrants your conclusion i.e. I don't think you need to go to a dedicated charger, just get a good one that really works.
Bill
I'm using two separate Powerex chargers that charge 4 NiMH batteries at a time (usually in 5-9 hours @400mah). As mentioned in my original post, all 16 batteries pre-charged before the trip worked perfectly -- then both chargers and all 16 batteries suddenly don't charge fully (though the GREEN charge indicator says they are). Add to that, my housing monitor comes on for 5-10 seconds -- shows the "dead battery" icon, then shuts off.
All three (chargers, batteries, housing) cannot all fail at the same time. In regard to your comment "
get a good one [charger] that really works" -- here is some history:
Philippine Sirene (240v 50hz) all chargers & batteries work perfectly for 12 days.
Maldives Aggressor (240v 50hz) all chargers & batteries work perfectly for 2 weeks.
Komodo Dancer (240v 50hz) all chargers & batteries work perfectly for 2 weeks.
Red Sea Aggessor (240v 50hz) all chargers & batteries fail (shows green light -- but are in fact NOT charged)
Return home to Houston (120v 60hz) all chargers & batteries work perfectly. It powered my housing monitor for SEVENTY (70) minutes -- still showing no weak or dead battery.
This proves there is nothing wrong with either charger, batteries, or housing monitor. The only variable is the electrical supply on the RSA. The only resolution at the time there was someone with a single voltage (240v 50hz) charger that successfully charged my batteries & kept me going. I probably need someone with an electrical (or electronics) engineering background to answer this. I can only presume that if the RSA generators are substandard, then so will the charge. BTY-I noticed lots of other lack of "attention to detail" there too.
To circumvent this on my next trip (probably Raja Ampat), I cannot depend on flaky generators (though my previous 3 boats charged just fine). Instead I'll just take 30 fully charged batteries & not count on recharging anything. Plan-B is as follows:
I've now purchased a plug-into-the-wall voltmeter (80-300v) to assess the voltage -- but that is not necessarily conclusive. Since this fiasco, I've also purchased a German charger (made in China, of course) that shows both voltage -- and more importantly the amperage as it is charging. I've also purchased a Li-ion charger and Li-ion batteries so now I have two technologies to throw at the problem. Thirdly, I can only buy a single voltage (240v 50hz) from the UK -- with 3 times the cost of shipping it to the US.
I will be better prepared next time. For those of you (videographers) who spend big bucks on a trip -- you can't let something stupid like this jeopardize your efforts. Hopefully you might take my advice and take lots of [recently] pre-charged batteries with you. What worked on your last trips is no guarantee it will work on your next trip. Just make sure they are all in plastic battery cases (not loose).
Good luck
Dale
---------- Post added November 17th, 2014 at 11:48 AM ----------
Im afraid to ask the question??? Is ther a 120 / 240v switch??? And is teh charger for those batteries. Ie isthe charger for 1.2v batteries adn you are charging 1.5 volt batteries. I ask because it happened to me. Charger said charged when the 1.5v battery got to 1.2 volts.
Most battery (AA) chargers are now labeled as "universal" voltage. On the back of the charger it shows (120v-240v 50-60hz). Though voltage converters can easily convert -- it cannot convert oscillating frequencies (50-60hz). It is doable -- but at a reduced power cost -- you must convert to direct current (DC) then back to the desired alternating current. This is a very sloppy approach but may save your device. For example, my beard trimmer shows (120v 60hz). I used it on the Komodo Dancer (240v 50hz) with a voltage converter and it FRIED in about 10 seconds because of the 50hz. So simply converting voltage is insufficient. Make sure you check the alternating frequency (hz). I compared notes with someone else (using a voltage converter) and exactly the same thing happened to them -- it FRIED the device even though the voltage was 120v.
In regard to your question -- make sure your charger & batteries are compatible. You charge nickle-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries only with a NiMH charger. Likewise you only charge Li-ion batteries on a Li-ion charger. To do otherwise may do some damage to charger, batteries, fire -- or may not charge as you expect.
In regard to voltage -- you can think of it simply as the "carrier" whereas amperage is the "muscle" that lasts. Cheap 700 may work for flash & game controllers. Alternatively my housing monitor requires at least 2400mha batteries so I bought 2700-3000 batteries. In my previous post, it powered my housing monitor for over an hour.
New ordinary AA alkaline (Duracell) batters are not strong enough to even turn my housing monitor on. Although I bought some AA "super charged" alkalines (twice the price) -- and this powered my housing monitor for about 8-10 minutes. So I would suggest;
Purchase a NiMH charger that shows both the voltage AND amperage while charging. That way you can see 2700 if your batteries are 2700 instead of some idiot light "charged" indicator.
Make sure the charger has MULTIPLE charging choices. I use slow charge to get the best lasting charge. Fast charge may be needed sometimes -- but makes HOT batteries.
Purchase some PowerX NiMH 2700 batteries (from the Battery Store). These are made in Japan. Most other batteries (BTY) are from China -- and well -- 'nuff said.
Never buy "brand-x" batteries they have no markings and you have no idea where they are from. I would suggest always buy the most expensive battery -- else you might shoot yourself in the foot.
