Canon A540 vs. A620

[mach2plus]

For an absolute rookie at underwater still photography, the camera options are intimidating to say the least. To date, my underwater photography has been video.

The A620 seems to be a very popular choice and has dropped in price to about $215 while the newer A540 is about $240--basically even.

The 620 has 7 MP and the 540 has 6 MP. The 620 has a 2" LCD and the 540 a 2.5"--a benefit for my "senior" eyes. Both have 4X optical zooms. Both have Canon housings while only the 620 appears to have an Ikelite model.

The technical differences are beyond my limited knowledge with regard to ISO ratings--620 = Auto, 50, 100, 200, 400 and 540= Auto, 80, 100, 200, 400, 800.

For Aperture range, it's F2.8-F4.1 for the 620 and F2.6-F5.5 for the 540.

The 620 shows an external flash(slave) and the 540 does not.

Although smaller, the 620 has 115,000 pixels in the 2" LCD while the 2.5" LCD on the 540 has 85,000.

The 620 takes 4 AA batteries and the 540 takes 2.

I will appreciate any suggestions on pros and cons of the two models or any other Canon models.

Thanks,

JP. About the best place for camera reviews that I've come across is at:

www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/canon/

Go to the Canon camera that interests you and click reviews on the bottom.

With regard to the A620, I love it! 4 AA batteries are the way to go, and I've never run low or out of power on dives lasting 1+20, after shooting 150+ pictures with the internal flash set on (mandatory flash). As personal technique only, I shoot in the C (custom mode), allowing me to update the white balance as necessary. The underwater white balance setting yields good results, but the manual custom white balance seems to work even better, judging from my results. Also, the LCD will shut itself off after one minute or so, so I periodically depress the shutter button half way to keep the LCD on, reason being that you may lose a fleeting picture if you have to activate the LCD, and then compose, etc. It may sound silly, but this technique has saved me a few times already (tarpon and barricuda "pop-ups").

It has already been pointed out here, but it is worth repeating again. If you purchase the Canon housing for your A620, you can use the A620's internal flash, which in my experience, using the provided flash diffuser, works great. If you opt for the Ikelite housing ($360), your also going to have to purchase an external strobe for it, because the Ikelite housing blocks the A620's internal flash. The Ikelite does allow you to use the accessory lenses with it, however, which the Canon housing doesn't. With the Canon housing you'll be limited to the cameras fixed lense. Hope some of this has helped.

Best of Luck -- Mach

 

[aic007]

Just a heads up, if you have the diffuser on with the ikelite, you do not get the shadow in the lower corner like you do if it is off. Was playing with the settings of my strobe today and don't know why I never tried it before but good to know for people trying to decide on what case they want to go with. So with the WP-DC90 you can save some money and lose future add on functionality and with the ikelite it will cost about twice the canon case but you can add lenses and filters if you so decide in the future. Personally I like the build of the Ikelite more, just seems more heavy duty but it is alot bulkier than the WP-DC90.

Hope that helps.
AIC

 

[tankboygreg]

The diffuser on the WP-DC90 improves the shadow in the lower corner but does not eliminate it. Just check out my avatar. While the frogfish is illuminated the corner is dark. It's worse on macro shots. I'm going to have to get a strobe.

 

[aic007]

I took some shots in my living room with the diffuser on the Ike, haven't gone diving yet so that will have to wait until the end of the month but it was pretty even in the dry shots. When I get a chance I will post before and after pics.

 

[aic007]

Didn't get a chance to post the pics but messed around a little more with it, If you do close up macro type shots, yes you will get a shadow with diffuser, distances greater than 8-12" should have less of a shadow and anything past that should be fine. So a strobe I guess would be recomended if doing macro shots for even lighting.

 

[mach2plus]

Just a heads up, if you have the diffuser on with the ikelite, you do not get the shadow in the lower corner like you do if it is off. Was playing with the settings of my strobe today and don't know why I never tried it before but good to know for people trying to decide on what case they want to go with. So with the WP-DC90 you can save some money and lose future add on functionality and with the ikelite it will cost about twice the canon case but you can add lenses and filters if you so decide in the future. Personally I like the build of the Ikelite more, just seems more heavy duty but it is alot bulkier than the WP-DC90.

Hope that helps.
AIC

Hi AIC. Good info on the Ikelite housing for the A620. The Ikelite website doesn't say what the Ikelite case weighs (at least I couldn't find it anywhere), but the B&H Photo website says it weighs in a a hefty 3 pounds. By the way, what type diffuser are you using on the Ikelite? Something homebrewed? All my shots using the A620/Canon housing (with diffuser attached) have been at 2 foot or better, which probably accounts for my not getting the shadow. I'll play around with it on my next dive and see what happens.

Best regards to all -- Mach

 

[aic007]

I use the diffuser that came with the case, There also was a blocker for lack of a better word, which is used to trigger the strobe with the manual cotroller and not have the camera's flash affect the pic. It's like the diffuser just thicker so light doesn't get through it. I will post pics of the case in the A620 housing advice thread, since scottg was asking about the gasket groove.

The case does have some weight to it, but it has slight negative bouyancy according to ikelite. With the dual handles and strobe it has some weight out of the water, wonder what its like under.

 

[mach2plus]

Thanks again for the info. I replied on the other thread with a couple of questions.

Regards -- Mach

 

[CompuDude]

The Ike cases are slightly negative underwater. Add strobes and such, and they get a little more negative, but nothing overwhelming. And you can always strap a little foam to the arms to make it more floaty, if that's what you want. ULCS makes special buoyant arms for those who want them but the buoyancy is not much.

Weight is more of a problem with heavy video rigs than most cameras, esp. at the P&S level. Metal housings and lens systems for SLR cameras can get heavier, though.