in_cavediver
Contributor
DeepScuba:Ron:
No it's not, (burn time) on a halogen. That's my point.
Read incave's post above. He summed it up perfectly!
NiMH's are a waste of money when driving a halogen bulb, so I'm finding out.
I think the best "rating" for an SLA for divelight use, is what's called the RC (Reserve Capacity). It's sometimes put on RV or Boat deep-cycle batteries. It's the time, in minutes, that a battery can be discharged at XX Amps and still have a voltage of 10.5V
I may be a tad off here, as I'm doing it from memory, but it's close.
Once the voltage drops below this, it's getting fairly low and starts to turn yellow
Yep, you are correct. Most very high drain devices that use SLA's have some sort of low voltage shutdown to prevent sulfating the batteries. (Potentially permanent damage). You should NEVER run an SLA below 10.x volts. (The specific number does vary sligly with manufactors).
From my very non-scientific testing of a SLA under load, the light begins turning yellowish around 11.2-11.5 volts. A really good indicator to shut the light down. One of these days I plan to do a full discharge on an old battery to really characterize what that part of the discharge curve looks like. (Time and light characteristics)
This fact is one of the main reasons I advocate sizing your SLA packs to use a 50% value of the rated Ah rate. It will keep from deep cycling the battery and should give longer life.
Mike