Got you there. Here's a checklist of stuff you will/may want as you go forward:
1) Reg set. (Recommend primary donate, 2 identical seconds, simple brass-n-glass or plastic spg, cold water rated)
2) BP/W (for cold water go with a steel plate, dir harness, and a 30-35lbs wing to float it)
3) Dive computer
4) Thermal protection (drysuit with undergarments, dry gloves, hood, and boots that fit over socks, and/or wetsuit, gloves, hood, and boots, and/or semidry with gloves and boots.)
5) Primary light
6) Backup light
7) Compass
8) Slate
9) Fins
10) Mask
11) lead weights to match thermal protection buoyancy changes
12) bolt snaps to clip off lights/gear to harness, cave line to tie them together
13) smb as the cheap option; finger reel and dsmb as the best boat diving signaler
14) Reel for wreck diving, occasionally needed, get one once you need it
15) glow sticks or a battery-powered glotube for night diving, when you get there
16) Flag N float for shore diving, once you get there
17) Tanks so you don't have to go to the LDS every time you and your buddies want to dive. Steel 100's are very popular for wreck diving in the Great Lakes. Most people buy used tanks if they can. Aluminum tanks are okay, but the steels help a lot with the weighting you need to dive thick thermal protection in cold water and aluminum just doesn't. Also al80's are borderline capacity for a lot of Great Lakes divers below 100 feet. 2 or 4 steel 100's is a great tank stable for Lake wreck diving. You'll add an al30 or 40 to that as a pony once you start deep diving.
18) Primary and backup dive computers, optional
19) Gopro with underwater housing, optional
20) Dive camera with housing, video lights, optional
21) Small dry box for seasickness meds, tools, keys, phone, cards, etc.
22) Mesh bag to carry kit
23) Padded bag for reg set
24) Knife, shears, trilobite line cutter
25) weight pouches to mount onto your harness
26) trim weights to trim out
Hope that helps.
1) Reg set. (Recommend primary donate, 2 identical seconds, simple brass-n-glass or plastic spg, cold water rated)
2) BP/W (for cold water go with a steel plate, dir harness, and a 30-35lbs wing to float it)
3) Dive computer
4) Thermal protection (drysuit with undergarments, dry gloves, hood, and boots that fit over socks, and/or wetsuit, gloves, hood, and boots, and/or semidry with gloves and boots.)
5) Primary light
6) Backup light
7) Compass
8) Slate
9) Fins
10) Mask
11) lead weights to match thermal protection buoyancy changes
12) bolt snaps to clip off lights/gear to harness, cave line to tie them together
13) smb as the cheap option; finger reel and dsmb as the best boat diving signaler
14) Reel for wreck diving, occasionally needed, get one once you need it
15) glow sticks or a battery-powered glotube for night diving, when you get there
16) Flag N float for shore diving, once you get there
17) Tanks so you don't have to go to the LDS every time you and your buddies want to dive. Steel 100's are very popular for wreck diving in the Great Lakes. Most people buy used tanks if they can. Aluminum tanks are okay, but the steels help a lot with the weighting you need to dive thick thermal protection in cold water and aluminum just doesn't. Also al80's are borderline capacity for a lot of Great Lakes divers below 100 feet. 2 or 4 steel 100's is a great tank stable for Lake wreck diving. You'll add an al30 or 40 to that as a pony once you start deep diving.
18) Primary and backup dive computers, optional
19) Gopro with underwater housing, optional
20) Dive camera with housing, video lights, optional
21) Small dry box for seasickness meds, tools, keys, phone, cards, etc.
22) Mesh bag to carry kit
23) Padded bag for reg set
24) Knife, shears, trilobite line cutter
25) weight pouches to mount onto your harness
26) trim weights to trim out
Hope that helps.
