Camera Attachment?

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I just realized what a dumbass I am (again! dammit!). Upthread I was complaining about wanting the Cetacea lanyard, but with 2 bolt snaps. I just realized I could just loop the paracord end through one to add a bolt snap there and then have exactly what I was asking for... Arrghh...
 
I'm the opposite.

I currently use the one with the paracord on the end that attaches to the camera. I think I might have even bought it from Optical Ocean. I used to have the one with bolt snaps on both ends.

Let me explain why I prefer the paracord:

Have you ever seen the demonstration where a double-ender on a spool gets torqued and the lever gets compressed and the bolt-snap pops off the spool?

Well, I have a Nauticam housing and where I used to attach the double ender is through a hole in flange. You might think "that will never happen." Well, it did. Luckily I had a very aware dive buddy who saw it happen and chased it down and luckily there was a sandy bottom and it wasn't on a wall dive where it would have been gone.

I use a setup similar to @MaxBottomtime. I have a handle lanyard (white in the photo) which is short enough to not get in the way but long enough to hand up to somebody on the boat before I get back on the boat. I also have the Cetacea lanyard (red) to attach the camera rig to me. I've attached a photo for reference.

I've also attached a video (sorry, had to "zip" it since they don't allow .mov files) showing how easily a double ender can come undone from (mine, at least) the camera housing. This might be specific to the Nauticam housing and obviously there are ways to stop this from happening. For me, the simplest way was to just use the leash with a paracord end which isn't coming off unless it gets cut and that is very unlikely.

- brett

We have two of the same white handle lanyards that you have for the Sony housing for our Nauticam housings (EM1II and EM5II). We do not use them any more as it happend already several times that the boltsnaps were released by themselves during handling/diving. I think it is much more dangerous to give the camera to someone on the boat via these handles, when it can happen that they are occasionally loose. In addition, these white handle lanyards are always in the way during diving, no matter how one rearranges them. We just give the cameras to the boat via the strobe arms or the camera handle itself. In these days most people on diving boats know well how to deal with delicate camera equipment. In addition, I always explain to them in detail how they should handle our equipment..

For attaching the entire setup to a D-ring of th ejacket, we use a lanyard, similar to the ones described here. One end is permanently fixed to the camera (no boltsnap), the other end attached to a D-ring via boltsnap. Never any problem observed so far...


Wolfgang
 
Yes, there is a risk of that and I have seen it happen once, maybe twice but never had both bolt snaps do it at the same time. And, they only time I use that lanyard is when they pass me the camera and when I pass it back.

I also try to remember to face the gate of the bolt snap on both ends in the "right" direction such that it can't (or at least is a lot less likely) to happen. I've attached pictures of what I consider the "right" way and the "wrong" way. Of course, there is no real "right" or "wrong." :)

Note that when you have it in the "right" way that the "fat" part of the bolt snap is in the hole and it generally gets stuck there.

I've also not had a problem with it getting in the way during taking photos. Maybe mine is shorter since they do come in different lengths and it tends to stick up above the lens when I put the bolt snaps in the "right" way.

I'd prefer another solution, but I haven't found one yet. I do prefer that they take the rig from me using the white lanyard and not via one of the handles or the arms. I also don't let go of the rig until they have it in hand.

- brett
 

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Note that when you have it in the "right" way that the "fat" part of the bolt snap is in the hole and it generally gets stuck there.

I've also not had a problem with it getting in the way during taking photos. Maybe mine is shorter since they do come in different lengths and it tends to stick up above the lens when I put the bolt snaps in the "right" way.

- brett

You could use a small shackle in each hole to attach the bolt snap to to avoid the jamming, it's what I do with mine.
 
You could use a small shackle in each hole to attach the bolt snap to to avoid the jamming, it's what I do with mine.

Shackles instead of boltsnap is certainly the way to go (I often see people using shackles), in case one wants to use the white handle...

I think boltsnaps are dangerous, even if it is only one boltsnap that loosened itself: you give the camera via the white handle to a person on a boat (both the person and you think it is secured), the person grips the setup via the handle, the setup then, unexpectedly, swings out. If the person is not loosing the setup completely, it is very well possible that the entire setup bumps uncontrolled into something and parts break...

Wolfgang
 
Shackles instead of boltsnap is certainly the way to go (I often see people using shackles), in case one wants to use the white handle...

I think boltsnaps are dangerous, even if it is only one boltsnap that loosened itself: you give the camera via the white handle to a person on a boat (both the person and you think it is secured), the person grips the setup via the handle, the setup then, unexpectedly, swings out. If the person is not loosing the setup completely, it is very well possible that the entire setup bumps uncontrolled into something and parts break...

Wolfgang

Yes, totally agree.

Funny enough, I woke up this morning and thought "why don't I just use shackles?" And then I read your post. I'm ordering one today that has shackles instead of bolt snaps. :)

- brett
 
Yes, totally agree.

Funny enough, I woke up this morning and thought "why don't I just use shackles?" And then I read your post. I'm ordering one today that has shackles instead of bolt snaps. :)

- brett

Does that mean that your handle will be "permanently" attached to the camera rig somehow?

If it's attached to the joint between the strobe arms, I think that is the ideal spot for lifting/carrying the rig. But, then the handle will either be too long or it will keep the strobe arms from spreading out far enough.

If it's attached somewhere else, then lifting the rig could allow the strobe arms to flop around.

Am I missing something?

Why not use the strobe arm clamps that I posted earlier? They have shackles built in. Bolt snaps on the handle, clipped to the shackles, seem like a fairly foolproof way to have confidence in lifting/carrying without a concern about the bolt snaps coming accidentally undone.
 
Does that mean that your handle will be "permanently" attached to the camera rig somehow?

If it's attached to the joint between the strobe arms, I think that is the ideal spot for lifting/carrying the rig. But, then the handle will either be too long or it will keep the strobe arms from spreading out far enough.

If it's attached somewhere else, then lifting the rig could allow the strobe arms to flop around.

Am I missing something?

Why not use the strobe arm clamps that I posted earlier? They have shackles built in. Bolt snaps on the handle, clipped to the shackles, seem like a fairly foolproof way to have confidence in lifting/carrying without a concern about the bolt snaps coming accidentally undone.

With the shackle system, there are multiple ways to attach it. I've attached a photo of the way I plan to attach it.

I would call it "semi-permanent" meaning that I can remove it if I need or want, but i don't plan on removing it on a regular basis.

In terms of the strobe arm clamps you referenced, I did consider that but you would still be attaching a bolt snap to the shackle on the clamp. While it is maybe unlikely, the trigger on the bolt snap could still get torqued and potentially unclip.

I guess you could use the lanyard with the shackle and then attach the shackle to the shackle on the clamp arm so that it is removable when you remove the clamp, but I'm fine with leaving the white lanyard on the housing "semi-permanently."

- brett
 

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Oh, I'm with you -- I have the usual Cetacea with the cord loop, and I cut off their plastic hook and added my own swivel bolt snap for the diver end. (Swivel bolt snap to stainless split ring to webbing, if anyone else wants to roll their own.)

Well, what a funny coincidence. I just went out to gaze longingly at my gear, and my plastic coil has broken:

upload_2021-2-17_10-24-28.png


@JackConnick what's inside the webbing on yours? Plastic coil? Steel coil? Shock cord?
What is the maximum extension, and how hard is it pulling at extension?
How much soaking does it need to reasonably remove salt water and ocean spoodge from the webbing?

Candidates so far:
OOS - use as-is.
LP1 - probably use as-is, though I'd rather it wasn't a bolt snap on the camera end.
LP2 - for $10 I could grind off the brass snap and replace with steel and still come out ahead.
...and any of a dozen Amazon candidates that are basically what I started with and then modified, anywhere from $25 all the way down to $5, such as:
https://smile.amazon.com/Scuba-Choice-Diving-Lanyard-Buckles/dp/B00PVQQQGA
https://smile.amazon.com/PSCCO-Anti-Lost-Lanyard-Release-Underwater/dp/B0814MGMNL
https://smile.amazon.com/Kang-Yuan-Release-Lanyard-aluminium/dp/B07C6TJBPL

I've tried to be open-minded and consider just a snap, or a fixed tether, but for my uses:
I like the ability to shorten,
I like that the shorten clip is a different operation (different feel, different motion) from the unclip operation,
I prefer bolt snaps,
I've gone back and forth on attaching to the camera with a girth hitch vs. a shackle/split ring.

Open to thoughts and suggestions.
 
Nothing is inside our webbing. It is 2 ton strength and all connections are box stitched. The parachute cord that goes to the tray is incredibly strong. I've never heard of one of ours breaking/tearing.
It's easy to use as it's stretchy nylon.

Jack
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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