Camera Attachment?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

ps. In your video, can you get it to pop off like that if you clip it with the gate facing up instead of down?

It is a lot less likely. The primary reason is that the when the force that opens the gate is removed, the gate closes. I've attached a picture showing what I mean.

For me, the little effort required to "un-thread" the paracord to remove it is small and if I can remove a variable in the equation (remembering to put the bolt snap on the right way every time), then I will.

- brett
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9285.jpg
    IMG_9285.jpg
    61.8 KB · Views: 91
Yes, I am very aware of that phenomena. I would think that would be a lot more likely to happen on the bolt snap that is clipped to your body than the one clipped to the camera. Regardless, with paracord on one end, you still have that risk on the other end, yes?

Yes and no.

Generally, around a D ring on a harness, there aren't many other objects that can cause the trigger to get depressed AND torqued in quite the same way. It is possible, but unlikely. As somebody else mentioned, and it has been my experience, I've never had it happen with deco and bailout bottles and I've carried quite a bit of those. Or with other items clipped to D rings (backup lights, long hose reg, etc.)

It wasn't visible in the picture, but the ONLY place on any of my dive gear that I have a carabiner style gate is on the other end of that leash. :) See attached photo.

Diving in cold water with dry gloves, does it make it harder to remove it to hand it up to the boat? You bet.

I would note that it does make attaching it to myself a lot easier. I can just slam the gate down on a D ring and give it a couple yanks to verify.

- brett
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9286.jpg
    IMG_9286.jpg
    49.8 KB · Views: 92
It is a lot less likely. The primary reason is that the when the force that opens the gate is removed, the gate closes. I've attached a picture showing what I mean.

For me, the little effort required to "un-thread" the paracord to remove it is small and if I can remove a variable in the equation (remembering to put the bolt snap on the right way every time), then I will.

- brett

I played with mine. I CAN get it to come loose in the way you did, but it's pretty hard. My camera handle attachment point doesn't have the same kind of lip at just the right distance from the hole for the bolt snap that yours does, that will open the gate with the opening in just the right position to come off.

Hmmmm.....
 
Also, for the record, I looked at the one I'm using now more closely and realized that, though the coiled part has a steel cable through the middle, the two ends of that coiled part are terminated in plastic, and it is the plastic that holds the coiled part to each end.

So, if you had the camera deployed (i.e. the QR buckle in the middle undone) and the plastic on either end of the coiled part broke, you could lose your camera.

I think I will replace it with one of the ones from Optical Ocean Sales after all. I just have to decide whether to go with a suicide clip or a bolt snap.
 
[...]
Let me explain why I prefer the paracord:

Have you ever seen the demonstration where a double-ender on a spool gets torqued and the lever gets compressed and the bolt-snap pops off the spool?
[...]

Torquing a DE is more likely than torquing a bolt snap that has a swivel. The swivel will likely unload the twisting.

I'm not DIR -- but I seem to remember reading something in that stuff about avoiding all-metal connection chains; which I vaguely understood as making sure there was a cuttable link in the connections somewhere. Just a thought to keep having a cuttable "fuse" within arm's reach in mind as everyone is eliminating breakable elements. (If you think that's a factor.)

On the Cetacea-for-OOS, it looks like these would be cut options, though the near end might take some work.:

upload_2021-1-11_13-34-29.png
 
Torquing a DE is more likely than torquing a bolt snap that has a swivel. The swivel will likely unload the twisting.

Maybe (or maybe not), but why take the chance? And, as you note, it gives you another possible point to cut yourself away from an entanglement if needed vs. a double ender or bolt snap attached to metal on the housing.

Why wouldn't you use the leash with the paracord on the end that attaches to the housing? What is the downside?

As Stuart mentions, it does make it a little more tedious to don/doff the leash if you want to take it off the housing. I guess it is (very remotely) possible that it gets cut unintentionally. Anything else?

I can't see a real downside and, to be honest, only upside. Hence, the reason I switched to the version I have now.

- brett
 
Maybe (or maybe not), but why take the chance? And, as you note, it gives you another possible point to cut yourself away from an entanglement if needed vs. a double ender or bolt snap attached to metal on the housing.

Why wouldn't you use the leash with the paracord on the end that attaches to the housing? What is the downside?

As Stuart mentions, it does make it a little more tedious to don/doff the leash if you want to take it off the housing. I guess it is (very remotely) possible that it gets cut unintentionally. Anything else?

I can't see a real downside and, to be honest, only upside. Hence, the reason I switched to the version I have now.

Oh, I'm with you -- I have the usual Cetacea with the cord loop, and I cut off their plastic hook and added my own swivel bolt snap for the diver end. (Swivel bolt snap to stainless split ring to webbing, if anyone else wants to roll their own.)
 
I think I will replace it with one of the ones from Optical Ocean Sales after all. I just have to decide whether to go with a suicide clip or a bolt snap.

I've thought about this a bit.

I think when I bought mine, OOS didn't have their version yet with the bolt snap (or I didn't find it in my research).

I looked it up and I bought mine directly from Catecea and the only option (for the style leash I wanted) for the end that attaches to me was the carabiner style (it still is AFAIK).

I DO like the red lanyard (or any other color than black) because it does stick out which is what I want for this particular purpose.

I like the "easy on" of the carabiner style when I'm trying to sort out all my stuff at the surface and getting ready to dive but it does make it harder to remove when I'm getting ready to get back on the boat.

I would like the familiarity of a standard bolt snap and it would make it easier to remove with dry gloves.

I guess my ideal solution would be to have a Catacea style lanyard in a bright color, have paracord on one end, and a stainless steel bolt snap at the other end. I don't think that currently exists but I could be wrong.

- brett
 
I guess my ideal solution would be to have a Catacea style lanyard in a bright color, have paracord on one end, and a stainless steel bolt snap at the other end. I don't think that currently exists but I could be wrong.

- brett

So you're only issue with the one from OOS is that it's black? LOL
 

Back
Top Bottom