Cabo San Lucas dive report: Pelican Rock and Land's End, 4-11Sep2004

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WaterWayne

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Location
Austin, TX; got out of Dallas by wit, charm and be
Summary: Lost three days due to stalled Hurricane Howard. Then over two days, dove Pelican Rock and Land's End in Bahia San Lucas; also dove Cabo Pulmo. I'll post Cabo Pulmo dive report separately for easier reading and searching, and because it's quite different than Bahia San Lucas.

Dive operator: Land's End Divers, who were only shop of six CSL outfits that responded to emailed questions. As per my earlier post, I choose not to dive with outfits that respond to simple questions with just a price list, or don't respond at all. Not only that, Land's End folks went above and beyond in retrieving left-behind gear, and in providing referrals.

Logistics:
Lodging: Stayed at superb Fiesta Americana Grand in the Corridor, using time-share exchange.
Transportation: I recommend renting a car, unless your holiday package includes free shuttles, and/or unless you're staying in CSL itself. You definitely want air-conditioning and standard transmission. On this trip, I rented $90/week VW Pointer wagon from Advantage, which proved to be a very good vehicle over widely varying roads (model not seen in U.S.) Flew Continental Air, which reduces its 3 Saturday flights to only one during off-season, resulting in overbooking. Returning through Houston Immigration/TSA on 9/11 was the worst delay I've ever seen at a U.S. airport in a lifetime of int'l travel; allow more than an hour for connecting flights through that site.
Food: Split dining between expensive resort restaurant, moderately priced local restaurants, and bulk Costco groceries. Water at resort is drinkable from the purified tap.
Weather: Hot, hot, hot, somewhat humid, but storm-free weather after hurricane passed on.

Dives:
Pelican Rock is the most popular dive site in the CSL harbor, for good reason. It can get somewhat crowded in this shoulder season, so I don't think I would recommend it during the high season. The rock is based at 56', walled on the east (harbor) side, where there is a Monterey Bay-like drop-off to 3,000+ feet. Water temp was a surprisingly cool 84 deg, with air temp ranging up to 90 deg in early afternoon at end of dives. Vis ranged from 40 ft immediately after the hurricane passed, to 80 feet several days later.

Land's End is the very tip of the Baja California peninsula, where the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez. There is a moderate-strong surge underwater, and can be too rough on the surface for the typical dive-op panga. (That's typically a 20', open, wooden, 6-pack boat.) Although it's only a few hundred meters from Pelican Rock, it has several different varieties of critters. Depth is a surprisingly uniform mid-50'. Water temp was a cooler 82 deg, with vis (when we finally made it) at about 80'.

Marine life: WOW! :11: Critters were abundant and varied: eagle ray and devil ray, both about 1.5 meters across; several wall-dwelling lobsters; several small octopi. Land's End also hosted a medium-sized school of California barracuda, as well as camouflaged rock bass, and a couple of very interesting bumphead parrotfish as well as their conventionally-headed cousins.

The most numerous fish were several branches of the tangs (aka surgeonfish). And they were numerous indeed! There were also impressive numbers of Moorish Idols. My overall favorites were the Guineafowl Puffers. I was beginning to recognize the differences between the Cocker Spaniel-eyed burrfish and other puffers.

The reason I'm providing links to other folks' photos is because my newly-purchased Sea&Sea MX-10 camera failed to advance the film roll. I know who's to blame, unfortunately; gonna feed that film leader way on through the next time.
 
So Wayne, what mil wetsuit did you use?
btw what is a shoulder season? Never heard that phrase.
But again thanks for the nice trip report, I might have to check out lands end dive op.
David
 
dlndavid:
what mil wetsuit did you use?
btw what is a shoulder season?

Actually, only one dive all week was in a wetsuit: tropical-weight .5mm, full-body, and that was mainly to justify having packed it. OTOH, I was the only person in Bahia San Lucas diving suitless (I'll spare you the "tough as Texas" lines here. :crafty: ) Three-mill would be appropriate for anybody, I think. Shorties were common.

Shoulder season is a travel industry term referring to the middle ground between high and low seasons. For me, it's a great combination of fewer crowds, lower prices, and "almost-as-good" weather.

The first two conditions were true on this trip. The rental car was almost half of high-season cost ($150/week, I heard). Regarding crowds, there are up to three cruise ships a day during the high season, but only two per week during low season, starting in August. Therefore, I dived 1:1 with the divemaster on most of my dives, with no more than five of us customer divers on any dive.

However, the weather in Los Cabos is apparently either full-gorgeous or problematic. For instance, I missed three days of diving; MtnDiver missed a full week of diving, just the week before, due to the same hurricane.

Winter in Los Cabos gets surprisingly cold, with Sea of Cortez water temps down to the mid-60's (20 deg less than high season.) Autumn is billfishing season, and January-February is whale-watching season in the Sea of Cortez. (More than one hotel employee swore that whales could be seen "just 100 meters" from my balcony in winter.)

Bottom line: Los Cabos shoulder seasons for diving are cheaper, much less crowded, but weather-risky: either August-September (the rainiest months, in hurricane season) or April-May (still cool, and the Sea of Cortez is affected by storms from the north).

Keep us posted on what you encounter, please, David? You're apparently sliding in at the end of shoulder season, so you should be OK.
 
Definately will keep all interested posted. I have gained much info talking to y'all (that's Texan for you all, he he) Yah I know the feeling if you haul it on down, you mine as well use it. I already rented a car online after taking advice of CPR's posts.
Too bad about mtndiver's timing, I'm keeping my fingers crossed, and my gear ready.
I heard neptune's finger was also a good dive sight, any input? And thanks for the shoulder season explanation, I figured that's what it meant, just never heard it before.
Be talking with yah Wayne,
David
 
dlndavid:
I heard neptune's finger was also a good dive sight, any input?

I'm still a bit puzzled by my divemaster's decision to pass up Neptune's Finger, in favor of Land's End. Nobody else was diving the Finger when we went by it on the way to Land's End. In fact, Neptune's Finger never seemed to have dive boats around it. Pelican Rock was always busy with divers, and Land's End was somewhat busy, depending on the sea conditions. Here's the geography: Pelican Rock is only about 25 meters offshore, north side (closest to harbor) of Neptune's Finger, which is itself north of Land's End. The Finger is about 100 meters offshore, but still would seem to be somewhat protected by the worst of the Pacific rollers by Land's End itself, which is another 100 meters out to sea. Maybe there are some currents the crews recognize around Neptune's Finger. I could have asked, but had my head down fiddling with gear. Hmmm.

Also, check out Chileno Beach, in the Corridor. I heard there was a good variety of diving there, from easy snorkeling to some deeper diving, all optionally shore-based. However, first it was clouded by the storms, and then the dive op wasn't anxious to boat just one or three divers over there from the harbor. There is a dive shop there, Club Aquadeportes.
 
WaterWayne:
Also, check out Chileno Beach, in the Corridor. I heard there was a good variety of diving there, from easy snorkeling to some deeper diving, all optionally shore-based. However, first it was clouded by the storms, and then the dive op wasn't anxious to boat just one or three divers over there from the harbor. There is a dive shop there, Club Aquadeportes.

So Wayne,
Are you saying you can do shore dives at Chileno Beach?
That would definately up the number of dives I could do.
I would only have to rent tanks, that would be cool.
 
WaterWayne,

Glad the weather cleared up for your trip. I'm jealous!

Sounds like it was an awesome trip.
 
Wayne,

Did they every take down the black flag on the Westin beach?

Just curious...
 
MtnDiver:
Did they ever take down the black flag on the Westin beach?

While I can't speak for the Westin, the Fiesta Americana never relaxed their own red-flag warning (do not swim) in the week I was there. Nonetheless, at least one couple went snorkeling for quite a while at the F.A. beach. However, one of my dive group members said that when he went jogging along the beach at his resort, a hotel employee was watching the beach, and warned him not to try the water.

So it seems that different resorts have different approaches to enforcing the "do not swim" rules.
 
dlndavid:
So Wayne,
Are you saying you can do shore dives at Chileno Beach?
That would definately up the number of dives I could do.
I would only have to rent tanks, that would be cool.

Did you say there was some shore diving in Cabo?
 
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