Cabo Pulmo trip report

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WaterWayne

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Austin, TX; got out of Dallas by wit, charm and be
Dived twice on Saturday, 27Aug, with Cabo Pulmo Divers. Dive info first, then general information below:

Dive business: Be aware that prices vary widely, depending on how and with whom you booked. For instance, I made a direct deposit through PayPal with a local individual, who quoted me $65 for two dives. Other divers in my party were quoted $45-$75. The good news is that the local shop guys are happy to take your word for it, and simply ask, "How much were you told?" Dives start more-or-less on time about 9:30.

Conditions: A storm had blown through the day before, clouding visibility by providing the first rain since February. Vis at El Bajo was up to 40', fair-good for the Sea of Cortez, but El Cantil was down to 20'. The shop was estimating 20', so they're conservative, which I like. Temps were similarly affected: although advance satellite imagery claimed 85 deg., my computer registered 79. (It was 83 about this time last year.) Currents were none-gentle, running north to south. Unfortunately, both dives were rather shorter than I liked, at 45 minutes and 35 minutes respectively. Bottom is soft coral on granite on sand. El Bajo, the farthest site, takes only 15 minutes from the beach.

Grouping: There were seven of us in our panga, working with DM David. David and DM Roger (Rogelio) are fluent English speakers. Like everybody else I've met at Cabo Pulmo, they are protective and careful in the reef area. The DMs dive with the group. Especially on the first dive, they not only watch for safety issues, but also frown on folks banging the bottom, etc. Another panga carried two Discover Scuba adventurers, and two referral (check dive) folks. You won't see anyone underwater other than your own party in Cabo Pulmo, though; it's that harmonious as well as spacious.

Marine life: Although El Cantil (The Cantilever) is my favorite place for critters, the storms seemed to have scared off quite a few fish, temporarily I'm sure. The usual fat, happy fish were there, though, such as the several big, green morays; regular parrots and bumphead parrots; and grouper. I saw a spotted eel (3'?) that I'm researching further. I also saw the biggest puffer I've ever seen, about 2' (and easily 12"-15" through the head!)

Getting there: CP is 90 minutes from the Los Cabos airport, about 2.5 hrs from Cabo San Lucas. The last six miles are semi-graded, washboard dirt.

Shopping: The nearest stores are in La Ribera, about 30km away. You can buy beer, water, and suntan lotion in CP - not ice. There is no ATM. Local payment is cash only (dollars or pesos.)

Lodging: I stayed at Nancy's bungalows, in the $30/night, open-air special. (I actually slept in the hammock under the thatch roof, quite nicely, until that candidate-for-Kentucky-fried rooster began bugling about 4am.) There are bungalows with their own bathrooms for summer rates of $40/night. I think winter rates are $10-$20 more.

Eating: There are two restaurants in Cabo Pulmo. One is at Nancy's. It's open the latest, until 9pm. Entrees are good, service is quick, but surprisingly pricey at $10-$18; consider what they have to go through to get the goods there. The other is on the beach. Fish tacos are quick and moderate, but anything else takes 30 minutes or more.

Hope this helps somebody!

--Wayne
(next stop: Loreto)
 
Wayne,
Thanks for the trip report. Cabo Pulmo was the highlight of our trip in August, even if it was an all-day trip from Cabo. I'm still craving those fish tacos at the place on the beach. I'm curious - why is El Cantil your favorite of the two sites? On the day we went, it seemed that the vis was better and there were more critters out at El Bajo. Seeing a four-foot goldfish (I know, grouper) is something I won't forget for a while.

I'm looking forward to hearing about your other excursions on Baja. I am wanting to take my wife there in a few months - will probably go to Cabo just cause its easy, but I have heard a lot about Loreto too. We could care less about nightlife - just want a place where three dives a day isn't imposing on the dive shop, we can have some nice dinners and maybe mosey up to the bar afterwards.
Mark
 
scubabum2:
...I'm curious - why is El Cantil your favorite of the two sites? On the day we went, it seemed that the vis was better and there were more critters out at El Bajo.
Mark

Mark, although El Cantil doesn't have the biggest critters, I like the variety of animals in the ridges. For me, El Cantil provides the most scenic dive, with those cantilevered rock formations and some almost-swimthroughs. That's interesting that your vis was better at El Bajo, as was mine on this trip. In fact, I was surprised at the difference between the two sites. Last year, El Cantil was about as good as it gets -- 40/50 feet.

BTW, Cabo Pulmo Divers quoted me a price of $55 for a night dive (thumbed due to post-storm conditions). They need a three-person minimum, incidentally. So I've still never done a night dive in Los Cabos. They also quoted me $65 for a third dive on Saturday, which tells me that they didn't want to do it. (I thumbed that one due to value!)

--Wayne
 
hee hee... memories.

We dived Cabo Pulmo last July. Dived those two sites on both days (El Cantil and El Bajo) Lots of pics. Great times.

La Palapa is the place on the beach with the Fish Tacos. Yummers. While we were there, two rather sizable boats pulled up near the shore, anchored and the occupants sort of hopped into the sea, swam to the shore, walked out of the ocean and straight to La Palapa for lunch. They rolled in pretty lit, wet and sandy. It was kinda cool, and kinda weird.

We had breakfast at Nancys... and I remember the roosters. Candidate for KFR... genius.

---
Ken
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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